Keypad backup or bypass

[functionoverfashion]

My 2003 SANTE has the keypad for start/stop and all the accessories (I think they all do?). At 16 years I'm worried about the long-term reliability of the keypad. I read in this thread about a way to bypass it for emergency purposes, which makes a lot of sense to me. Security is not an issue for me, and anyway there's no code set so I don't need the number buttons to work for the boat to run.

The very fact that there's no code and that my 16 year old keypad still works perfectly leads me to wonder if it's been replaced at some point. The boat had about 550 hours when I got it in 2017, so I think it could go either way... could be original, maybe not, who knows?

What I'm thinking is, these things will probably not be made forever. Parts like this go NLA and owners have to find workarounds. I think the time and money spent in replacing / rewiring everything to work with switches would be more than the $360 for a new keypad, which is why I'm thinking I should buy one from NautiqueParts now while they're readily available. With PND it's $324 to have a complete perfect replacement on hand and ready. Even if I'm able to use the bypass to get home, I can foresee a time when we'd be unable to really use the boat because of a faulty keypad and again, the time and money to replace it with something else - even the time to get one ordered if they ARE available - could really ruin a weekend or a week of family boat time.

So, am I crazy to order one of these things on the off chance that it fails, or that it MIGHT fail, and it might just be bad timing, or because they might (will) some day become NLA?

Or, should I build up the replacement set of switches and ignition key or whatever, ready to wire up in the event of a failure?

Meanwhile I plan to make a bypass setup ready for that one time when the start button decides to quit with a thunderstorm approaching.

[Donbayers]

Wonder why no one answered this for you. I'm dealing with something and trying to figure out if I have a keypad problem or fuse box. Did you buy one?

[functionoverfashion]

lol, I just replied in another thread, that in fact, I just did buy one. It hasn't arrived yet. I also intend to do the bypass while I've got my boat at my house during this quarantine thing; although, our lake has no restrictions as of yet. It's just COLD. So anyway, that's your answer.

[C_Heath]

Just got the right side today on my 00 pro air and installed it. Gonna go ahead and get the left side start switch next paycheck. I don’t wanna be towed. Yea they work but still.

[functionoverfashion]

I'm just leaving my new one in a box in the basement, like I would with a spare prop. I did install the bypass switch and as far as I can tell without actually running the engine, it works - the fuel pump kicks on and the starter engages as expected. It cost me $0 to do that, because I have lots of 12V electrical stuff kicking around.

[2001SAN]

I'm just leaving my new one in a box in the basement, like I would with a spare prop. I did install the bypass switch and as far as I can tell without actually running the engine, it works - the fuel pump kicks on and the starter engages as expected. It cost me $0 to do that, because I have lots of 12V electrical stuff kicking around.

Good work! Fancy sharing a wiring diagram for the bypass? I have read the thread that inspired you but a diagram would be much appreciated.

D

[functionoverfashion]

Good work! Fancy sharing a wiring diagram for the bypass? I have read the thread that inspired you but a diagram would be much appreciated.

D

The only reason I would hesitate is that this allows anyone to bypass the keypad in any boat so equipped. But then again, if you're going to steal a boat, the keypad isn't going to be the thing that stops you. I would like to verify that it runs first. Then I could draw something up.

[2001SAN]

The only reason I would hesitate is that this allows anyone to bypass the keypad in any boat so equipped. But then again, if you're going to steal a boat, the keypad isn't going to be the thing that stops you. I would like to verify that it runs first. Then I could draw something up.

I hear you. Many thanks and good luck!

D.

[functionoverfashion]

I got to test my bypass yesterday, and it worked perfectly. Fuel pumps kick on with the ignition toggle switch, which sends power to the purple wire in the main harness. The momentary (push-button) switch engages the starter via the yellow w/red stripe wire, and the engine runs. None of the gauges work (I didn't expect them to). The main toggle switch (on/off/bilge only) was OFF at the time I tested this, but it should make no difference. That powers the keypad, etc. which is normally essential, but in this case, so long as you don't have a dead battery or some other issue, this will start and run the boat. I found a bracket for the driver's armrest panel was perfectly placed to hold a little switch panel under the dash, so I used those bolts to hold the panel up. It's well hidden, but also easy to reach.

Here's my awesome diagram.

It's important to note that both the wires in the main harness are allowed to continue without going through the new switches. The wires going to/from the new switches are simply added mid-stream, so to speak, so power can be fed to them from a different source. Normally, the keypad would send a signal to a control box, which would send 12v+ to the main breaker panel and on through to the correct wires. These switches bypass that normal route and feed 12v+ to each wire after the breaker panel.

This is really only an emergency backup, though of course if anyone knows it's there, they can start your boat without the keypad.

[2001SAN]

I got to test my bypass yesterday, and it worked perfectly. Fuel pumps kick on with the ignition toggle switch, which sends power to the purple wire in the main harness. The momentary (push-button) switch engages the starter via the yellow w/red stripe wire, and the engine runs. None of the gauges work (I didn't expect them to). The main toggle switch (on/off/bilge only) was OFF at the time I tested this, but it should make no difference. That powers the keypad, etc. which is normally essential, but in this case, so long as you don't have a dead battery or some other issue, this will start and run the boat. I found a bracket for the driver's armrest panel was perfectly placed to hold a little switch panel under the dash, so I used those bolts to hold the panel up. It's well hidden, but also easy to reach.

Here's my awesome diagram.

It's important to note that both the wires in the main harness are allowed to continue without going through the new switches. The wires going to/from the new switches are simply added mid-stream, so to speak, so power can be fed to them from a different source. Normally, the keypad would send a signal to a control box, which would send 12v+ to the main breaker panel and on through to the correct wires. These switches bypass that normal route and feed 12v+ to each wire after the breaker panel.

This is really only an emergency backup, though of course if anyone knows it's there, they can start your boat without the keypad.

You are a man of your word. Many thanks!

D