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Last year I suffered from overheating issues which I fixed immediately however bad gauge and maybe sending unit had shown me overheating for dam near the rest of the season however I wasn’t overheating at all after the first initial fix. So after taking much time to go thru my boats cooling operation I figured I’d let you know what I did to maybe help others. Here is the story to my my troubleshooting and eventual fix regarding cooling on my 88 SN2001
The fix was an infrared heat gun and shoot the engine. When then gauge says 200 plus and the engine block actual temp is 120 ish you know something is fail, either the sending unit or gauge. So I bought replacements for both. Last time I used. My boat it stayed cool for hours with the thermo stat in so it working correctly.
To prove out my cooling system I did the following.
1. drop my boat in the lake pop off the output hose from the raw water pump and filled the 5 gallon bucket and 15 seconds at 3000 RPM.
2. Now you know there's is water if it fills the bucket. I confirm no particles are in the exhaust risers (top of manifold) and make sure nothing was in and around the thermostat.
3. I removed my t stat and boiled it to confirm it opens as designed, I used a cooking thermometer to see at what temps it opened and closed.
4. To prove out the circulation pump (thru the engine). Removed the drain plug on the block for winterization while the engine is running and I confirmed that “gassing” it produces noticeably more flow out each hole, one at a time.
5. For good measure I also replaced the raw water strainer o ring and the jar as my old one had a crack on it.
6. After fighting every hose and fitting and replacing the one suspect hose that had been dripping I figured that about everything you can do.
That's when I got the IR gun and now sure enough it's working fine. I still have yet to change out the sending unit and to try this nice NOS VDO 250 degree gauge I got off eBay but I will do so shortly. I have to say that between the advice I got from correct craft fan and more importantly Vince from SKIDIM I am no longer a dumbass. I know exactly how my boat cooling system function. And no you can't but the impeller itself in backwards as the fins will rip right around one way and be put in the direction your pump spins. You can however install the pump upside down, which I did not do, but I sure did read about it. For me it's easier to replace my impeller while the pump is attached to the hoses this way you never remove the pump.
So the above should prove to yourself that you boat is cooling correctly. Hope this can help anyone with overheating issues.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The fix was an infrared heat gun and shoot the engine. When then gauge says 200 plus and the engine block actual temp is 120 ish you know something is fail, either the sending unit or gauge. So I bought replacements for both. Last time I used. My boat it stayed cool for hours with the thermo stat in so it working correctly.
To prove out my cooling system I did the following.
1. drop my boat in the lake pop off the output hose from the raw water pump and filled the 5 gallon bucket and 15 seconds at 3000 RPM.
2. Now you know there's is water if it fills the bucket. I confirm no particles are in the exhaust risers (top of manifold) and make sure nothing was in and around the thermostat.
3. I removed my t stat and boiled it to confirm it opens as designed, I used a cooking thermometer to see at what temps it opened and closed.
4. To prove out the circulation pump (thru the engine). Removed the drain plug on the block for winterization while the engine is running and I confirmed that “gassing” it produces noticeably more flow out each hole, one at a time.
5. For good measure I also replaced the raw water strainer o ring and the jar as my old one had a crack on it.
6. After fighting every hose and fitting and replacing the one suspect hose that had been dripping I figured that about everything you can do.
That's when I got the IR gun and now sure enough it's working fine. I still have yet to change out the sending unit and to try this nice NOS VDO 250 degree gauge I got off eBay but I will do so shortly. I have to say that between the advice I got from correct craft fan and more importantly Vince from SKIDIM I am no longer a dumbass. I know exactly how my boat cooling system function. And no you can't but the impeller itself in backwards as the fins will rip right around one way and be put in the direction your pump spins. You can however install the pump upside down, which I did not do, but I sure did read about it. For me it's easier to replace my impeller while the pump is attached to the hoses this way you never remove the pump.
So the above should prove to yourself that you boat is cooling correctly. Hope this can help anyone with overheating issues.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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