Boat quit--time for new batteries?

[Johnny_Rock]

2016 G23 quit tonight in the middle of a surfing run. Would not start again. Had to get towed in. Screen said about 12.2 v on the batteries.

Felt fortunate to empty the ballasts and push the boat back on the lift. After running the pumps, screen said batteries at 11.8.

I'm in the middle of my third season on the original batteries--could that be the issue? Have not had to time to investigate yet. (I thought someone at a Nautique dealership once told me to replace during the third season.)

Any advice w changing the batteries would be appreciated--including suggestions for replacement batteries. Looked like maybe there is a fuse on the battery-post connection that is possibly blown. I will try to look closer tonight/tomorrow.

[NautiqueJeff]

I seriously doubt that it is a battery issue. Batteries at 12.2 certainly wouldn't cause your engine to stop running.

[bturner]

With a battery still reading 12.2 volts I would tend to agree with the above unless there is a safety of some sort built into the electronics. This would seem doubtful as most logic built into boating systems would put the boat into a "limp mode" rather than strand you out on the water. That said try driving your car without an alternator for a day and see what happens. These engines don't have magnetos and depend on the charging system and battery for continued spark.

My first actions would be to remove the batteries, examine them for any visible issues (corroded posts, if lead/acid levels in the cells, cracks or damage) then try charging them with a good, modern battery charger (not grandpa's charger from the 60s). Next thoroughly check the condition of the cables, not just for corrosion on the connectors but also for condition of the crimps and any possible corrosion wicking up the cable under the insulation. Nut and bolt the connections to the ground and starter to make sure there isn't a lose connection there.

Next, once the batteries are fully charged take them to a auto parts store and have them load tested. This will ferret out a dead or marginal cell which can kill both batteries. Once you're sure you have good batteries you can either continue on with the boating season or if this doesn't resolve the issue you can move on to the next phase in determining the root cause of your issue.

From a replacement schedule for batteries goes..... I have known people who change out batteries every 4 years regardless of any issues. The logic being that it's cheaper/safer to do so than experience an issue on the water. Hard to argue their logic as this has worked well for them. I personally go the other direction and have run Optima Blue Tops that are on their 7th season. This has worked real well for me but I really focus on maintaining these batteries and use a charger that is specifically made for these batteries. I also charge them once a month when in layup. There are some real holy wars about AGM and Optima batteries in particular. Most revolve around perceived failure and cost. In the end you should run what you're comfortable with and it's truly hard to argue the cost/performance of a pair of new Interstates every few years.

[Johnny_Rock]

Thanks for the detailed reply; this stuff is a little bit beyond my pay grade. I would probably just replace with a reputable-brand battery that is same as original.

I'm a little worried now that maybe it's something else or a bigger issue.

All that I had time to do last night was get it on the lift and plug in the on-board charger to shore power; going to try start the boat again here shortly.

Wondering if anyone has any other thoughts/ideas as to what it could be: What could cause boat to just quit? I was surfing; my young son driving-he says boat just quit on its own (I thought maybe he pulled up into neutral); We shut it down and tried to restart a few times but no luck.

Thanks!

[bturner]

Lanyard?

[Johnny_Rock]

Lanyard is not above my pay grade! Learned to check that first thing.... A long time ago!

[Johnny_Rock]

Hooked up onboard charger overnight; just now went to start. Did not start on one battery--just sputtered.

Switched batt switch to 'combine' and it started and ran briefly but then quit again.

Got the above error message.

[bturner]

Remove the batteries and have them checked at an auto parts store to see if you have a dead cell on one of them. It really shouldn't be too hard to do this and check the terminals. If it is you're pretty much ready to call the dealer.

[NautiqueJeff]

Sure sounds like a fuel pump issue to me.

[MLA]

Have you rotated the battery switch to see if it fell apart?

[Johnny_Rock]

Have you rotated the battery switch to see if it fell apart?

Changed that out myself last summer....

[Johnny_Rock]

Sure sounds like a fuel pump issue to me.

That’s what I was thinking. Started buying fuel at a different store recently; wondering if the change has anything to do with it.

[bturner]

Very well could be but that wouldn't change your results from running with one or combined batteries. Fuel pump or an issue in delivering the correct power to the pump seem to be most likely. That said I would expect to get a low voltage alarm on the electrical side though.

[charlesml3]

Sure sounds like a fuel pump issue to me.

Agreed. The responses here keep focusing on the batteries or the battery switch. This is not the problem.

[charlesml3]

That’s what I was thinking. Started buying fuel at a different store recently; wondering if the change has anything to do with it.

Highly unlikely.