I spent a few hours troubleshooting my ballast gauges and sending units this week. I learned some things and wanted to share them so that everyone can benefit. I ended up replacing two sending units and it turns out I only needed one. Hopefully this will prevent others from making the same mistake!
First off, Nautique ballast GAUGES are all interchangeable from 2003-2012. This might prove helpful. There could be other years, but according to NautiqueParts.com, all of these years can be used interchangeably.
* You may have a bad ballast gauge if:
* Your gauge needle does not fall far below "E" when powered off (if it sits right on "E", you may have a bad gauge).
* You unplug the sending unit and insert a jumper wire to loop back the two wires that would go to the sending unit and the gauge does NOT move to "Full". Almost a certainty that gauge is failed.
* Your gauges don't work, but the pumps do drain and even stop when they're empty like it's supposed to (your sending unit is working and it's telling the pumps the tank is empty, but the gauge is faulty).
You may have a bad Sending unit if:
* Your gauges don't respond to "Full" and/or "Empty" AND your ballasts will fill but not drain.
* You unplug the sending unit and insert a jumper wire to loop back the two wires that would go to the sending unit and the pumps will drain but stop if you remove the wire.
* You unplug the sending unit and put a multimeter set to Ohms on the two wires going to the sending unit and fill the tank. The meter should show 30-40 Ohms when the tank if is full (or ~240 when it's empty).
First off, Nautique ballast GAUGES are all interchangeable from 2003-2012. This might prove helpful. There could be other years, but according to NautiqueParts.com, all of these years can be used interchangeably.
* You may have a bad ballast gauge if:
* Your gauge needle does not fall far below "E" when powered off (if it sits right on "E", you may have a bad gauge).
* You unplug the sending unit and insert a jumper wire to loop back the two wires that would go to the sending unit and the gauge does NOT move to "Full". Almost a certainty that gauge is failed.
* Your gauges don't work, but the pumps do drain and even stop when they're empty like it's supposed to (your sending unit is working and it's telling the pumps the tank is empty, but the gauge is faulty).
You may have a bad Sending unit if:
* Your gauges don't respond to "Full" and/or "Empty" AND your ballasts will fill but not drain.
* You unplug the sending unit and insert a jumper wire to loop back the two wires that would go to the sending unit and the pumps will drain but stop if you remove the wire.
* You unplug the sending unit and put a multimeter set to Ohms on the two wires going to the sending unit and fill the tank. The meter should show 30-40 Ohms when the tank if is full (or ~240 when it's empty).
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