My 2017 G23 barely turns left. The steering has somehow gotten so far off that I can turn the steering wheel right three full turns, but I can only turn it left about 3/4 of a turn. Obviously, this makes navigation tricky and kind of dangerous. I'm pretty far from a dealer, so I'd like to address this myself if I can. Is there a way to adjust this? Should I be looking at the rudder mount behind the engine or at the steering wheel under the dash? Any help would be appreciated.
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Most likely the rudder mount behind the engine. There's a tube in a clamp at the end of the rudder cable sleeve. The tube can be adjusted in that clamp and this is what adjusts the rudder throw. I bet it got loose and the tube slid.
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Turn the wheel lock to lock and count the number of turns, now divide by 2. Turn the wheel to lock in either direction. Now turn it back the number of turns from when you divided lock to lock in half. This is the center of the rack.
Now go to the rudder inside the boat.The tiller arm should be parallel to the transom (I have a feeling yours isn't).If not then either the tiller arm is slipping on the rudder shaft or the cable is slipping in the clamping block. You need to figure out which.Look for loose bolts missing nuts, sloppy cable position.
If it's the clamping block you'll need to adjust the cable fore/aft to get the tiller arm parallel to the transom.Rudder and shaft can vary. Some have a flat or key to keep them locked in place, some don't. Figure out what you have and see if you can see anything missing or loose.
This should at least get you started.
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Originally posted by bturner View PostTurn the wheel lock to lock and count the number of turns, now divide by 2. Turn the wheel to lock in either direction. Now turn it back the number of turns from when you divided lock to lock in half. This is the center of the rack.
Now go to the rudder inside the boat.The tiller arm should be parallel to the transom (I have a feeling yours isn't).If not then either the tiller arm is slipping on the rudder shaft or the cable is slipping in the clamping block. You need to figure out which.Look for loose bolts missing nuts, sloppy cable position.
If it's the clamping block you'll need to adjust the cable fore/aft to get the tiller arm parallel to the transom.Rudder and shaft can vary. Some have a flat or key to keep them locked in place, some don't. Figure out what you have and see if you can see anything missing or loose.
This should at least get you started.
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Then there you have it. According to Charles it can't possibly be anything to do with the tiller arm or the rudder so it's probably going to be at the clamp block. Just to be safe though, are you the original owner and if so has the rudder been off the boat for anything like a repair from a bottom strike? If so (and even if not) I'd avoid making assumptions and still look to make sure everything is installed correct as Charles has called out and that nothing is bent, cracked or loose.
vDrives and even some straight inboards can be tough to work on for sure. I'm not familiar with your specific boat but the clamp block should be back from the tiller arm a 2' or so. While still no peach to get at it should be accessible and located on the starboard side of the boat just to the right of the oil pan. I've typically got to these by laying on my side in the starboard storage locker. Take a work light, a socket set and open end wrench set with you when you contort yourself into the locker so you can make adjustments the first time in. You'll also want to lock the steering wheel in place or better yet have someone there to hold the wheel (and hand you tools if needed) so you can adjust the cable to get the tiller arm parallel with the transom. Once you're in there it should be pretty easy to figure out and fairly easy to adjust.
Not a fun job for sure but it should be something you can diagnose and adjust yourself.
Good luck!
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Originally posted by bturner View PostThen there you have it. According to Charles it can't possibly be anything to do with the tiller arm or the rudder
The square end attaches to the top of the rudder. The way it's made, it cannot slip. Now it's possible someone disconnected the tiller arm from the top of the rudder and put it back 90 degrees off, but I figure the OP would have said someone had worked on it. Plus it would be very obvious something was wrong on the test drive.
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It does make you wonder if that tiller arm has been off and put back on 1 flat off what should have been center rudder doesn't it?. Even if the cable were loose in the clamp block it would really need to slip to be off that far, which is quite possible over time I guess but still...... The other question I was going to ask is if the steering cable had been replaced but the boat in question is a 2017 and unless this is a saltwater boat that would be a very early cable failure. If it had, I've seen cables that were too short installed with similar resulting issues.
I would agree with your test ride comment but I've seen some really shoddy repairs by "professionals" and some just as crazy stuff that people will live with. I've also found the information that people provide will vary greatly along with it's usefulness. That's why I'll typically ask even what would seem like the obvious and try to assume nothing.
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Agreed. I've never adjusted the "throw tube" clamp. I really don't know if it slipped all the way one way or the other if it would push the rudder this far out of whack.
The tiller-arm being installed "one flat off" sure seems like it would cause this. With the steering wheel centered, the rudder would be WAY off from center. The only way the boat would drive straight would be to turn into it to bring the rudder back to amidships. The boat would then drive straight, but you'd have much less steering wheel range on one side.
I'm sorta reading between the lines from the OP, but it sounds like this condition started and has gotten progressively worse. That keeps me thinking it's the throw tube clamp.
-Charles
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Thanks for the advice! The clamp sounds like the culprit since I was able to "fix" it once by slamming it in reverse with the wheel turned one direction. Looks like my 6'4" frame will be climbing under the engine. Thanks for the advice!
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I ran into this issue on my 2017 G23 yesterday. The solution was referenced above, I'd like to provide a bit more detail of the fix.
My issue was the "throw tube" clamp as it's referenced above. The throw tube I would describe it as a piston at the end of the steering cable that actuates the tiller arm.
The clamp is a cube-ish shaped clamp that has 4 bolts holding his piston/throw tube in place. My bolts were loose and this piston/throw tube has slid through the clamp.
The clamp also seems to have a swiveled attachment to the bracket it's attached to. Mine moved and had some grease under it so I assume it's supposed to have a little wiggle in its attachment to its bracket.
To repair my "I can't turn left" problem I loosed the 4 nuts/bolts in the clamp and slid the steering cable piston back into place. While holding it I had someone turn the steering wheel to make sure I could hit the left and right stops in the steering. I also verified that when the steering wheel was centered the rudder was centered.
I then tightened the bolts once round to get them snug then a second round to get them tight. I'm not sure if that piston/tube can be crushed. Getting the bolts good and tight restored my steering to it's original feeling.
Hope that helps someone in the future.
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