Winterizing/Draining

[Bogusdogs]

I suspect this is a total rookie question, but I have never had the "Freshwater Flush System" in a boat before. I am on the water year round and the boat is out of the water when not in use during the week. It gets cold here... in the teens. So, the questions:

1. To drain the engine of water (no heater or shower) is there an easy way with one plug?
2. Can I drain the engine via the Freshwater Flush System?
3. Do I need to run RV antifreeze every time I take it out of the water if 90% of the water is drained?
4. A shop said that some people use a heated oil dipstick to keep the engine oil warm, and it keeps any water from freezing.

Thanks for the help. I know keeping it in a heated garage would be ideal...just may not be an option at the moment.

[NautiqueJeff]

1. No.
2. No.
3. No.
4. Not recommended.

What boat do you have, and what engine is in your boat? That'll allow for more details here.

[NautiqueJeff]

Got your PM. Sounds like you have a 2014 230 with a 409.

Here are the drain points for your engine. You'll need to drain all of them to effectively winterize the engine.

[Bogusdogs]

Thank you! I love this...and hate this. There a lot of 'drains.' How long should it take an average person to do this? Obviously it will get easier each time, but if dumping RV antifreeze take significantly less time, I may invest in a company

[Infinity]

To just remove the drain plugs and let the water drain out, probably only 10mins once you know where all the plugs are. On my 2014 ZR409 engine, 3 of the plugs (the 2 for #4 above the exhaust manifolds......and 1 plug in #6, which is located below the v-drive) use a 3/8" square end from socket set....also the one under the v-drive is hard to see in my boat and you gotta remove it mostly by feel. Its also one of the most important since its at the lowest point in your boat.

I also go out during the off season months occasionally and personally, I take the extra 10mins to let the water drain from each hole and then also RE-install the plugs so when I wanna ride next I know the boat is ready to go. I also use a shop vacuum and each time I remove a drain plug, I put the nozzle against the hole to suck out the water since this keeps water out of my bilge (I garage on the trailer), removes more water from that space than passive draining will and ensures there are no clogs keeping that drain from draining everything in there.

The RV anti-freeze for me is more about the anti-corrosive qualities but certainly not needed if drained correctly.

Remember that the impeller traps some water but if you disconnect the #1 and #2 shown hoses you don't have to worry about that.

Also...don't forget about your ballast pumps, I disconnect the lines from bag, pour some AF in the line using a funnel while running the ballast pump in reverse.

[Bogusdogs]

Again, thanks for the help. When you say disco #1 and #2 hoses, dod you mean to let the sitting water drain and then reattach?

[Infinity]

Again, thanks for the help. When you say disco #1 and #2 hoses, dod you mean to let the sitting water drain and then reattach?

Exactly

[Bogusdogs]

So when you disc the ballast pumps, are you talking about the stock ones, or additional ones...probably both.

[Infinity]

Disconnect each line from the fill/drain port of each PnP sack after you have fully drained the water out (personally I remove the bags completely since it takes 2 mins and I can dump any small amounts of residual water out of the bag), then using a funnel pour couple quarts of the RV AF in the end of hose where you disconnected and then run the ballast pump in reverse so it will drain the AF thru the pump impeller and push it out the bottom of the boat (I use a bucket to catch it since I do it in my garage). The other thing you can do instead is to just remove the ballast impeller but that takes more time if you are using the boat during the winter. I just run the RV anti-freeze thru them, only takes a few mins.

Wal-Mart has the RV anti-freeze for $2.6.....I just bought 10 gallons last night to be ready since for my boat I use 5 gallons total each time to run thru my system and do the ballast pumps. When I know I wont be using the boat for month or so (usually Dec & Jan), after draining the water I fill the system with the AF, takes about 4 gallons to run thru the partial system on my ZR409 and start coming out of the exhaust at which time I shut it down and leave it full of the AF

[Infinity]

On your original post, I know some guys that have put a light in engine bay overnight to keep it from freezing if not too cold (one time on a trip out of town I laid a heating blanket over the engine for a couple nights set on low to keep engine warm)....but if electric goes out or the light pops you could be in trouble. Rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24hrs and it can crack your block. Personally I dont risk that.

Another thought....if you run while cold out, make sure you consider the oil you are using. Many PCM engines now call for 5W-30 Dexos 2 synthetic (like Mobile 1), this is per service advisory from PCM in July 2019. Previous to that 15W-40 was recommended and a 15W-40 oil will not flow as well and lubricate the engine at cold temps.
The type of oil you use is dependent on your engine of course.

[Bogusdogs]

Thank you! I have never switched the oil I used with weather before...but that was a '95 ski Nautique. But, that all makes sense.

[Infinity]

Thank you! I have never switched the oil I used with weather before...but that was a '95 ski Nautique. But, that all makes sense.

Just an FYI....your ZR409 engine was part of the Service Advisory from PCM in July 2019 where they say this engine (6.0L) should be using the 5W-30 synthetic, Dexos 2 (I switched to Mobile 1 since easily available), plenty of other brands tho that meet the required specs.
This oil will be good for all weather, warm or cold so you wont have to worry about it after you change the oil when you winterize

[scottb7]

Just to be clear, for many many years the 15w40 was according to PCM just fine, and per manual good 50 degrees F and above.