Ballast Bags pressing too hard against engine panels...

[Bogusdogs]

Just curious what you guys have done, if anything, to reinforce the engine panels in the lockers on your SAN 230 (mine is a 2014) when you added a ballast bag (piggy back)? Likely the issue with many models. Mine seem to be fine on the large panels next to the engine, but the smaller ones near the stern are not really designed to be pushed against. As a result, the sac pushed in towards the engine compartment.

[Lakejackson]

https://www.wakemakers.com/engine-di...nel-saver.html



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[Bogusdogs]

Those are great for the main ones, but on the SAN 230 there are 2 more (one on each side) that go further back and are not connected as robustly. I don't think there is anything to connect those aftermarket rails to on those smaller panels.

[hal2814]

I think I need pics to understand what you’re asking about. On my 2011 230 I only have one engine divider per side.

[Bogusdogs]

Yes, those are very solid and the supports you attached will work great with those. On the 2014, there is an additional wall that literally has minimal support. Like 3 screws that screw into the side of the plexi inserts. Strong enugh to keep a rope or life jacket, but not 750-1000 lbs of ballast

[Payton1]

Check my post on ballast install for adding extra custom aluminum u-channels for reinforcement. Works great on my 220, I expect you could do the same thing. Check McMaster Carr if you can't get the aluminum u-channel locally. Good luck!

[PapaBear]

Yes, those are very solid and the supports you attached will work great with those. On the 2014, there is an additional wall that literally has minimal support. Like 3 screws that screw into the side of the plexi inserts. Strong enugh to keep a rope or life jacket, but not 750-1000 lbs of ballast

I did not reinforce the divider panels you’re referencing and I’ve had no issues with my wakemakers 650s. Given that those rear panel sections angle inward toward the stern, I don’t think the full bags press on them in the same way as they press against the main divider panels. I did reinforce my main panels and added a second cotter pin on the back channel to prevent the panels from hopping the lower track.


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[Infinity]

I have re-inforced divider panels and earlier this year they started popping out....confused me since the previous 2 summers that did not happen. I bought some 3/4"x3/4" aluminum tubing and added some extra re-inforcement ....but it still did it.
I finally figured out that when filling, the bags where pushing up on the dividers just enough for them to pop out. I bought some cotter pins and drilled a hold thru the track and divider panel to keep them seated and since then have had no issues.

[LakesideRec]

I swapped in some 500 lb wakemaker bags piggy-backed in my 2015 SAN 210. I had the same problem as mentoined above - as they filled, they were pushing up on the divider enough to pop it out on the bottom.

Some may object to adding wood to the boat, but I just cut pieces of 3/4" plywood 12" wide and long enough to reach where the back vertical rail for the divider is. I sanded all the edges round to avoid splinters and sharp edges pressing on the bags. They sit nicely between the hard tank and the divider and also just under the overhang of the seat back at the front end.

I was in a rush, so didn't bother to paint them or anything, but probably will take them out this off-season and add a couple coats of some good primer and paint to help preserve the wood. But it doesn't really get wet back in there and just the unfinished plywood will probably out-last the boat. If they do rot out, another sheet of plywood is only $25.

[swatguy]

My boat came with built in cotter pins from Nautique at the end of the dividers to keep them in place. I have my boat with 1100’s before wakemakers had the kit. I simply ran aluminum L channel the full length on the engine side of the divider. No issues 6 seasons