Winterizing 2015 SAN 210 Coastal Edition with EXE343?

[LakesideRec]

The PCM manuals don't have a raw-water draining diagram for the EX343 V-Drive with (partial? full?) fresh-water cooling. Does anybody have the diagram or can tell me exactly where to drain all the raw water?

Some of the places I would expect raw water like the exhaust manifold and exhaust elbow drains are labeled as being fresh water drains and seem to contain fresh water when I open them up. Doesn't make sense unless parts of the exhaust on this configuration is fresh water cooled?

I already have the intake, oil cooler, raw water pump, transmission cooler, raw water side of heat exchanger, and v-drive drained. Just need to confirm no other draining is needed.

[Infinity]

The "partial full systems" do have fresh water thru exhaust manifold/corners.... least on ZR409/ZR450 this is true.
My 2014 manual does not show an option for a partial closed cooled system for the EX343). My 2014 ZR409 is labeled everywhere there is raw lake water (except below the v-drive where you cannot see).
I have not seen a Coastal Edition in person

When you say that the manifolds/risers are labeled as "fresh water" and when you open them they seem to contain fresh water.....do you mean when you crack those drain plugs you have the DEX-COOL coolant coming out? I would sure think that your dealer or PCM could verify this info for you and/or get you a correct manual showing your engine drains.

[LakesideRec]

Post edited to remove unnecessary quote. See Quote Guidelines here.

It was dark out when I was working on it and I didn't want to drain too much of what was in there, if it was the closed section, but I thought it smelled like antifreeze on my hand to me when I cracked open the exhaust drains and let a little dribble out.

Maybe I am confused. The label indicates "Fresh Water Drain". Is "Fresh Water" the lake/sea water? I am thinking that the "Fresh Water" section is the closed section with anti-freeze.

Going to take another look at it today if it ever stops raining/sleeting here.

[Infinity]

Post edited to remove unnecessary quote. See Quote Guidelines here.

Its a bit confusing cause the manual says "Raw Water" for what comes from the lake (they specifically say that at the vdrive drain and the right side of the heat exchanger)..... On the left side drain plug at heat exchanger that contains the coolant for my ZR409, the manual labels that as "Fresh Water". To me that means they are calling Fresh Water the areas with coolant.
I don't know why they have to confuse things by saying that cause I would think fresh water is a dumb name for an area with the DEX-COOL in it.

[LakesideRec]

Post edited to remove unnecessary quote. See Quote Guidelines here.

Probably means it is "Fresh" as compared to "Salt" water in the sea-water portions of the system. Less obvious to us inland lake boaters, I suppose.

[LakesideRec]

Customer support at Nautique indicated they don't have any more information on winterizing my boat than is in the Owner's Manual. They referred me to PCM for more information, so trying to get in contact with them (my day job has been quite busy, so the delay is mostly on my end).

[LakesideRec]

The local Dealer (MarineMax in Rogers MN) was able to get some more details. They provided the enclosed document which although does not exactly correspond to my boat, does contain a couple of EX343 setups, including one with "Full" fresh water cooling. (Page 16, "Vee Drive EX343 CES CWS")

My 2015 SAN 210 Coastal actually has two oil coolers - one for the engine AND one for the transmission in the raw water path. One upstream of the raw water pump and one downstream. Both should be drained.

The dealer did confirm that the exhaust manifolds are fresh water cooled and should remain filled with anti-freeze protected coolant.

[LakesideRec]

Now that I understand the system on my boat, this year I took a different approach to winterizing it. I wanted to avoid disassembling the sea water hoses where they connect to the oil coolers and pump since that was a pretty strenuous bit of work hanging into the locker literally upside down on my head and reaching under and behind the engine to wrestle with stubborn rubber hoses that get really hard in cold weather here in the fall. And it was equally annoying to put it back together again in the spring.

Instead, I used Polypropylene Glycol (RV) antifreeze to protect the system.
I Purchased antifreeze with burst protection down to -70 from Menards for about $3 per gallon. Bought 6 gallons.

Put a bucket under the boat to catch anything draining out from the bilge or ballast through-hulls from killing the grass where I was parked.
Another bucket under the exhaust pipe at the back.

The main bilge drain plug was already pulled at the ramp when the boat was pulled from the water - State Law in MN requires the bilge drain to be open whenever trailering.

Getting as much water out of the system to start with helps avoid diluting the antifreeze.
Opened the sea water strainer cover.
Ran the engine for about 30 seconds sucking air to push some of the water out (but not too long so as to burn up the cooling pump impeller),
Pulled the drain plug / anode from the heat exchanger.
Pulled the drain from the bottom of the V-drive.
Ran another 30 seconds, spitting a bit more of the water out of these two drains.
Replaced the heat exchanger and v-drive drain plugs.
Used the strainer as a funnel to dump in the RV antifreeze by putting a stopper into the sea-water inlet side (or you could close the through-hull).
With engine running, poured 3 gallons of the RV antifreeze into the strainer as it was sucked in and pumped through the system.
Got almost 2 gallons back out.

After stopping the engine, pulled the heat exchange drain and v-drive drain again. Easy extra insurance just in case the anti-freeze was bad or diluted. A v-drive would be an expensive thing to replace.

For the ballast tanks:
First I ensured the ballast were as empty as possible by running all the pumps on drain until they were all sucking air
I made a 3' piece of apx 1/2" rubber hose that would fit tight into the ballast vent fittings by wrapping the end with electrical tape to the just-right diameter by trial and error.
Placed the gallon jug of the RV anti-freeze on the gunwale of the boat with the hose inserted to the bottom of the jug and the other end shoved tightly into the ballast vent inlet.
The ballast vents look just like the bilge pump outlets right next to them on the port rear and starboard forward - you can figure which is which by running the ballast pump to drain and feeling which one is sucking in air with your hand.
Ran the ballast pump in the "drain" direction to suck (and then siphon) the anti-freeze in through the vent connection.
Could hear when the pump primed again and was pumping anti-freeze out the bottom.
For the rear ballast tanks, I stopped with about a quart remaining and saved that for the piggy-back wavemaker sacks I have.
Poured the quart of RV antifreeze into the piggyback sack by removing a plug it had on the top of the forward end of the sack.
I lifted the forward end of the sack and sloshed the anti-freeze around a bit.
Ran the pump to drain the last bit out of the piggy-back sack and connections, letting it suck air through the sack before replacing the plug on the sack.

All of the above was easy to do from inside the boat on the trailer presuming you loaded all the jugs of RV antifreeze and tools in - so no need to climb in and out each time to run the engine and the ballast pumps on and off.

All of the above were just the steps to winterize the cooling system. Before I started on that, I had already topped off the fuel tank and added Stabil before the last run to the ramp to pull the boat out of the water. Normally I would also change the oil in the fall, but kind of ran out of time due to personal schedule - will take care of that in the spring.