Battery Question - Battery Tender

[GMLIII]

I have a 2017 G23 and I was thinking of purchasing a battery tender to keep the batteries maintained during the cold winter months. I have no desire to remove the batteries from the boat and placing them in heated storage even thought that is the recommended approached. My question is if the battery switch on the side of the helm is in the "Off" postion, can the battery be maintained with the tender with my boat in the lift? I have power at my lift for the tender.

Also can anyone recommend a particular Battery Tender and amperage? My G23 has two 12 volt batteries

[NautiqueJeff]

The battery switch won't matter, because the tender will be connected directly to the batteries.

I use the stock battery charger that is an option on the boats, and I leave it plugged in all winter. Never any problems, and the batteries are always good to go in the spring.

I also have eight different Battery Tender Juniors maintaining batteries on everything from my yard tractor to other boats to batteries that run my lifts.

[GMLIII]

Thanks Jeff

[shag]

Look ay NOCO changers. They have some nice stuff. I have been using their two bank battery maintainer/tender for a couple years now and it's great. Auto maintains and as Jeff says above, they are always ready to go.
Do not skimp on charger/maintainers. I have been to a few fires caused by cheap maintainers, and owners not paying attention to them.

[MLA]

Ideally, the switch should be off and the auto-bilge should be wired direct to the battery and NOT through the switch.

20A 2 bank marine on-board multi-stage smart charger. ProMariner has a few different series, Guest, NOCO, Minn Kota, Xantrex to name a few

[GMLIII]

Look ay NOCO changers. They have some nice stuff. I have been using their two bank battery maintainer/tender for a couple years now and it's great. Auto maintains and as Jeff says above, they are always ready to go.
Do not skimp on charger/maintainers. I have been to a few fires caused by cheap maintainers, and owners not paying attention to them.

Yeah I have a NOCO booster and really like it. Im leaning to this two bank NOCO onboard charger even though I will not mount it in my boat. I do plan to add 2 positive and negitive clamps to the end of the charging cables which are available from NOCO.

[NautiqueJeff]

Ideally, the switch should be off and the auto-bilge should be wired direct to the battery and NOT through the switch.

I disagree with this. On the newer boats, if the auto bilge pump is wired directly to the batteries, you would have no way of ever turning it off.

[MLA]

I disagree with this. On the newer boats, if the auto bilge pump is wired directly to the batteries, you would have no way of ever turning it off.

If the bilge is running, its because there is water in the bilge to pump out. Why would you want to turn off the automatic operation that prevent the boat from sinking when you are not there. or filling up with water while on the trailer?

Not sure the correlation between a new boat and old boat with an auto bilge though. Auto bilge pump works the same, regardless of boat age.

IMO, having the auto bilge able to work at any time, far out ways having the boat "hot" all the time because the main battery switch is on. This also prevent a dual bank charger from operation as its designed, depending on the type of switch or what position its left on.

[shag]

Yeah I have a NOCO booster and really like it. Im leaning to this two bank NOCO onboard charger even though I will not mount it in my boat. I do plan to add 2 positive and negitive clamps to the end of the charging cables which are available from NOCO.

Same one I have had for three years plus and works great! Installed in the boat...

[NautiqueJeff]

If the bilge is running, its because there is water in the bilge to pump out. Why would you want to turn off the automatic operation that prevent the boat from sinking when you are not there. or filling up with water while on the trailer?

Not sure the correlation between a new boat and old boat with an auto bilge though. Auto bilge pump works the same, regardless of boat age.

IMO, having the auto bilge able to work at any time, far out ways having the boat "hot" all the time because the main battery switch is on. This also prevent a dual bank charger from operation as its designed, depending on the type of switch or what position its left on.

This is not correct. On the newer boats, the two pumps cycle every two and a half minutes to check for water in the bilge. They do this by turning on and looking for resistance in the pump due to the presence of water. If the resistance is there, it pumps until the water is removed. If not, they turn off again. Over time (usually about two weeks or so), this cycling will drain a battery to the point that it will not start the boat, even if no water is ever present. I know this from experience.

These newer pumps are not like the old style with float switches.

[GMLIII]

I'm thinking now of just getting my onboard battery charger installed under the obseaver seat area on the inside wall next to the trash can. For owners installing these aftermarket battery chargers/maintainers where do you think is the best location is to install the AC plug port. as attached? I'm thinking of installing the AC plug port below the obsearver seat in the fiberglass area where many install the subwoofer grills or either along the walkthru to the bow. The walkthru install location may be more in the way vs under the observer seat area. Thoughts on placements?

[MLA]

GMLIII

On most boats, I prefer to locate the charge outlet in one of the rear lockers or rear storage bins, if the model has them. This is the most accessible spot, just before the cover goes on.

On the G's, the outlet is located right behind the driver's seat, next to the speaker. Somewhat hidden by the removable seat back.

The factory charge location is just under the side seat, on a false wall in the forward end of the seat well. Behind that wall, is access to the bilge.

NautiqueJeff

I would draw a distinction between a pump thats running because its pumping water and the cycling operation of the load sensing auto bilge pumps. im not a fan of disabling the auto function of any bilge pump, ESPECIALLY if that boat is on a lift or in a wet slip.

Given that the OP is looking to install an on-board charger, the cycling pump running a battery down over time, is now a moot point.

[NautiqueJeff]

Yes, but what happens when he trailers his boat? There still should be a way to disable the pump from cycling other than letting the battery die. I think that's why Nautique wired it the way they did - after the battery switch.

[scottb7]

Nautique bilge pumps - with or without the software update - powered thru the pdm (power distribution module) are known to fault. When they fault when on the water you have to power down the boat, wait and restart the boat. This is NOT a good option as one could actually be needing to use one or more of them.

Therefore mine are wired thru the battery switch and NOT the ignition (pdm). Therefore, bypassing the pdm. So if i leave my battery switch on, then my pumps (each on a different circuit with added circuit breaker (in the oem panel) will cycle. If I choose to not have the pumps cycle I can turn off the battery switch.

Seems like the best of both worlds as I am then not reliant on the pdm.

P.S. I would say in my personal final analysis having had these automatic pumps fail and stay on and wear down a battery, which has happened to me. Maybe nautique should move to a float based pump.

[NautiqueJeff]

Actually, the reset for the tripped bilge pump issue is to hold STOP. No need to turn off the power to the boat. In fact, that won't reset the pumps.

I agree that this is not ideal. I think they should automatically reset after a set period of time.