Help with rudder packing and grease

[peteSki]

I'm about to install a dripless shaft seal on my 2005 Sport 216 with Excalibur 330. Have done the job once before on my previous boat, so I'm expecting to have to remove the rudder in order to make room to slip the seal over the end of the driveshaft after removing the coupler. Since I'll likely have to remove the rudder I thought I'd repack it and grease it as well even though I'm not having any issues with it. The grease part is new to me, but this boat does have a remote Zerk fitting that connects into the rudder port. I've tried a couple of times since I've owned the boat over the last 5 years to pump grease in but simply can't, so I'm thinking the remote line is maybe clogged up?

Been reading a bunch of posts here and seems the consensus is to go with the bigger 1/4" packing for the rudder. What about grease? I presume a good quality marine grease will do just fine? Anyone bypass the remote Zerk fitting and pump grease straight into the rudder port? On my boat I have 2 ballast tanks in the back so I can reach it... bit of a pain but don't have to remove fuel or ballast tanks to do it.

Appreciate any comments, trying to order everything I need in advance!

Pete

[charlesml3]

There's not much to it, really. I usually stuff paper towels in the port and push them through with something to clean the old grease out as much as I can. Then from the bottom of the boat, put a good coating of grease in the port as far up as you can reach. Coat the rudder shaft as well. As you slide the rudder back in, work it back and forth to spread the grease around.

While you have the rudder out, figure out what's wrong with that remote grease line. You may have to replace that Zerk fitting. Now's the time to do that. Is there any reason you believe the rudder packing you have is bad? I've never replaced it on any boat.

-Charles

[peteSki]

Thanks Charles. Nothing wrong with my steering at all, only reason I'm thinking of doing this is because I'm pretty sure I'll have to pull the rudder to get the new shaft seal on, so I figured I'd at least put in new grease and repack it as I presume I'd ruin the existing packing material by pulling out the rudder. I'll probably order the replacement Zerk fitting from Nautique Parts as it's definitely seized up. Should be an easy fix!

[charlesml3]

You will most definitely have to pull the rudder in order to remove the drive shaft. Are you doing all of this just to add a dripless shaft seal or is there more going on?

-Charles

[dkimball]

Hi Pete,
I have a 2003 Nautique 216 and I would like to get the back seat out so I can see if I have a grease zerk for the rudder and just give everything a once over. I have tried a couple of times to figure out how to remove the back seat with no luck. I do have he hard tanks in the back so I am not sure if that is an issue or not. I have had people tell me to remove the straps behind the seat but I cannot find anything to release the seat. How did you get your back seat out? Do you have any pictures of how to remove it? Unfortunately my boat is in storage now so I can't access it but I am planning on completing a simple tune up this spring and would like to get at the rudder. Thanks.

[peteSki]

You will most definitely have to pull the rudder in order to remove the drive shaft. Are you doing all of this just to add a dripless shaft seal or is there more going on?

-Charles

Yep, main goal is to remove the stock shaft seal and add in the dripless one. Plus I need something to do since the lakes are frozen and I can't use my boat! Not having any steering issues and the cutlass bearings don't have any play, so hoping I can just slide the shaft down just enough to get the new seal on.

[peteSki]

Hi Pete,
I have a 2003 Nautique 216 and I would like to get the back seat out so I can see if I have a grease zerk for the rudder and just give everything a once over. I have tried a couple of times to figure out how to remove the back seat with no luck. I do have he hard tanks in the back so I am not sure if that is an issue or not. I have had people tell me to remove the straps behind the seat but I cannot find anything to release the seat. How did you get your back seat out? Do you have any pictures of how to remove it? Unfortunately my boat is in storage now so I can't access it but I am planning on completing a simple tune up this spring and would like to get at the rudder. Thanks.

I presume you have the rear storage between the transom and the seat? That's how mine is setup and it's quite easy to remove the floor and walls within the storage area so you can get at the top of the rudder. The zerk fitting hose is back there too. On mine it's next to the gateway box close to the center-line of the boat.

I did remove my seat once and it was a PAIN! I know on mine the bottom part sits in the boat and there are 3 stainless pins that you have to remove along the back edge of the seat in order for it to come out. They are tough to get to as they are hidden by the back of the seat, which is a separate piece. If memory serves, I removed the rear piece first, this was bolted on I believe and once you remove those you lift it out. I recall having issues figuring how to get the pieces in and out without forcing them in or scratching the boat. I was doing it solo so if you get a helper that would for sure be easier.

For the shaft seal project, I'm not planning on removing the seat, just the floor boards within the rear storage locker and the floorboard between the engine cover and the rear seat so I can access the top of the rudder. While it goes under the seat, I've found you can wiggle that out pretty easy once you remove the engine cover, and that fully exposes the shaft and seal.

[charlesml3]

Yep, main goal is to remove the stock shaft seal and add in the dripless one. Plus I need something to do since the lakes are frozen and I can't use my boat! Not having any steering issues and the cutlass bearings don't have any play, so hoping I can just slide the shaft down just enough to get the new seal on.

OK, but in the words of my grandfather: "The juice isn't worth the squeeze." You're going to a lot of effort for very, very little gain. If you're removing all of that for some other reason they yea, maybe it's worth it to go ahead with the dripless seal but otherwise it makes little sense. You still won't have a dry bilge. Most of the water that winds up there comes in from your riders getting back in the boat.