Welcome to PLANETNAUTIQUE! We're glad you're here. In order to participate in our discussions, you must register for a free account. With over 25,000 registered members already, we would love to have you as a member too! Click here to access our Registration Page. Registration is quick and easy, and we keep any information you give us completely confidential. Once registered, you may sign in using the drop-down Login or Sign Up window at the upper right corner of the site.
I have great success with Interstate wet cell and AGM. Group-24 size. Depending on how you use the boat, you should at least have one main cranking or a pair of dual-purpose. If you spend a lot of time at anchor, then I consider one cranking and one deep-cycle.
So I went with one cranking and one deep cycle. This may sound like a dumb question but which side does the cranking battery go and which side is the deep cycle? Port or Starboard side?
If no one knows the answer you could always hook up just one battery, turn on the power and see if you can turn over the engine. If it works, turn the power off, disconnect the battery from that side and move it to the other. Turn the power on and try again. If it doesn't work you know have your answer.
With a 1/2/BOTH battery switch, it really does not matter, but, you would then want to know if the cranking is now on the #1 or #2. Like bturner said, connect one battery and see which switch position powers the boat up.
MLA Thanks for the advice to install one at a time and test out. Which leads to my next question...2016 G23. My switch is off/on/combine. I’ll attach a picture but when I purchased the boat, my dealer just told me when cranking or under power, to always keep it on combine. Didn’t make sense at the time but never questioned it. So is the deep cycle on “on” and when you crank you turn it to “combine”??? I’m sure this question has been asked but search for me is not being
No, that's not how it is supposed to work. No need to use Combine unless you run the first battery down. When the engine is running, the boat automatically combines the batteries so that they both charge. Neither one is a deep cycle from the factory (actually they are dealer-installed).
EDIT: I just saw that you installed one cranking and one deep cycle.
I own and operate Silver Cove Marine, which is an inboard boat restoration, service, and sales facility located in Mooresville, North Carolina. We specializes in Nautiques and Correct Crafts, and also provide general service for Nautiques fifteen years old and older.
If we can be of service to you, please contact us anytime!
Works great no issues. The only reason I didn’t go with the more amp model NOCO was because of all the negative reviews and the overcharging of batteries . May be BS but the main reason I purchased the model above vs the high priced model with more amps
The only benefit to a larger (i.e. more amps) charger is faster recharge time. In this instance, I don't see a benefit unless you significant'y draw your batteries down and use your boat daily. It's a different story if we're talking trolling motor batteries in a fishing boat.
Works great no issues. The only reason I didn’t go with the more amp model NOCO was because of all the negative reviews and the overcharging of batteries . May be BS but the main reason I purchased the model above vs the high priced model with more amps
Do you know proper stock battery size for 16/17 G23?
Kmayotte i don’t and it depends whether lead acid or AMG batteries because difference sizes . I replaceD my lead acid with AMG but don’t recall size. I’m sure one of the battery experts will chime in with size for G23 2016
The only reason to install 1 deep cycle is if you plan on draining the battery down significantly meaning sitting somewhere with the sound system on for hours or leaving the boat in the water with the bilge pump "on". If you are not draining the deep cycle you are better with a standard lead-acid. If you are partially draining then an AGM is a good choice plus they charge faster when you start the engine. Personally, I use a deep cycle for trolling motors only and hate them for other uses and they suck as starting batteries. However, I also don't crank music for significant periods with the engine off. I am not a fan of music you cannot talk over.
It's also a bad idea to combine batteries especially if they are of different types or different ages without a combiner with start isolation while charging from the engine. If left combined, batteries will rob each other until they reach the same potential. Conversely, if you are charging you will keep forcing juice into a good battery if the other is bad.
Faster charging is actually not a reason I suggest a higher capacity charger. A good benchmark is a charger that can deliver in amp, at least 10% of a battery's Ah rating. So if you have a 100Ah battery, then you would want 10A for it. So a 20A dual bank would do it. One reason to have more output then needed, is not too different from the bigger truck to to argument. A larger charger is likely yo have more heat sink mass for heat dissipation. It wont work as hard as a lower capacity charger to service the same battery Ah.
I believe a 2016 will have group-24 batteries and boxes from the factory. If you plan to regularly run accessories for long periods with the engine off, then a deep-cycle on one side and a cranking on the other side is best. If you do go AGM, it does not matter, they dont carry the cranking/ deep-cycle labels.
Comment