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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Apr 2019
- 691
- Columbus, OH
- 2005 Super Air 210 Team; 1960 Chris Craft 18' Continental
WOW, this looks worse than the one I bought and just posted a book about. If have any questions about anything let me know, looks like you will be doing a lot of the same things I had to do.
I'm pretty sure you can order the V-Drive cover, I think there was a post here about it somewhere.
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I had same issue with mine when I got it. Not the crack, but the water pull. Impeller was good, but I still went through the entire cooling loop and found a few scraps of rubber from a previous bad impeller from the previous owner. Still didn't work pulling water, so I check all the seals and the Filter needed a new O ring. I then hooked it to a hose in the little acres cap above the belt drive and the cooling was working great. Obviously the pressure helped....but then took it to the lake and it worked great on the lake.
However, when I drained the system a year or so ago for a minor repair, it wouldn't work on the lake again. I primed it on the lake with a tsunami pump for a spare bag and it worked great after that. My conclusion for my boat was to prime it at the beginning of the season, and then it works for the rest of the summer with no problem. IfI drain it, I prime it before we go back out.
Not sure why it does this, but it has worked like a champ every time since. Might help, might not. Good luck
D
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Wow. Bet that will look much better after a huge detail.Cant wait to see it!
If it was my boat, I'll likely go through the entire cooling system. Like Rocky said above, you'll need to make sure the entire intake track doesn't have any air leaks. If you do, it won't pull water. New impeller is obvious. I'd also pull the thermostat housing, inspect for general rust blockage and put in a new gasket and thermostat. Once you did all that, I'd then prime the entire system with hose water...connect a hose to the water intake after the stainer and crank it / run it briefly. If all is happy, it should pull water.
Once you've got water running through the system, I'd then start verifying it's flowing well. A laser temp reader would be helpful...you can check the left and right side temps and see how close they are and if you have hot spots. It's not impossible that the exhaust manifold are full of scale and blocked,. You may need to pull the risers and the drain plug to get as much scale out as you can. Once you do this, then keep checking as it's possible scale in the block may gum up the thermostat and/or the exhaust manifolds.
Finally, make sure you check the exhaust area for lots of oil. You might discover that the oil galley is leaking into the water jacket vs. water into the oil. Obviously you'd see water in the oil but if it's leaking the other way..then you'll only know if check the exhaust.2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
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Those impeller housings are easy to install upside down on the GT40s. Ask me how I know ha ha. The tricky part is that when you install it upside down it looks more correct than if you install it right side up.
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You’ve got a crack in your cooling chamber of the vdrive. Vdrive is going to need to be rebuilt or replaced.
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Gears probably look good because it only got water in it once you fired it and drove it to the trailer. They will likely just replace some seals and the cooling chamber. That’s what they did for mine.
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Wow...that last pic of the cooling chamber looks pretty knarly. Lots of scale and rust... :/2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
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