2000 pro air no power to the bilge pump wire. I’m lost.

[C_Heath]

2000 pro air with GT40. The bilge is working because when I Unhook it and plug it into the ballast wire and hit fill on the pad it cuts on for 2sec like it supposed to to check if water is present. My pump is automatic. No float switch. It checks every 5 min for water via different amp draw. If the draw is diff then it will run for a while.

Ok to the key pad. It’s BRAND NEW today. Got it in the mail thinking it was the pad. That was a $421 mistake. So when I hit the bilge button the pad, the green light cuts on and I hear a small tick under the dash at the PME breaker box Just like when I hit any other button.


My handheld meter also measures continuity by alarm and the bilge plug has continuity but when I switch it over to volts I get nothing. Also, all the breakers under the helm are good shape and not tripped.


Does anyone have the slightest idea of what I can check next.? Yes I can run the bilge off of the ballast wire just fine but it will only run the front pump and I spent 8 hours putting a new pump in the rear back in March and I just want everything to run like it’s supposed to. Dropped a load on this thing and it was all I could afford. Nice boat but I am certainly Busting Out Another Thousand quiet frequently lol

Thanks again guys!

[functionoverfashion]

Just to clarify - you have continuity from the breaker box to the bilge pump, on the positive wire and you also have continuity on the ground wire? To both pumps, or are you just talking about one of them? Do both pumps run off the same switch (presumably?) or ...

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to get the whole picture.

[C_Heath]

No problem! Thanks for helping. I’ve googled for hours. When I stick the meter poles in the bilge wire coming out from the breaker box I get the continuity alarm on my meter. Both pumps are wired to this one circuit so I’ve lost both pumps.os there another way to test continuity? That’s on the wire coming from the breaker box that plugs into the bilge.

[rpaldrich]

Have you had a chance to read through the owner's manual yet? On page 1-3 of the 2000 manual it says that your keypad button will only turn on the bilge pump when the bilge pump switch is on. Your boat has a bilge pump that is wired to work when you are in any ignition mode (locked / accessory / run) but I think it gave owners the option of turning off the bilge pumps via another switch when you put the boat on a trailer or just don't want it cycling every 5 minutes. Perhaps there is this "bilge switch" upstream of your keypad and breaker box. All the keypad switch does is allows you to manually turn on the bilges by hitting the switch twice. While the keypad will cycle the relay, it sounds like your problem is that the relay is not getting power. Find this magical "bilge switch" and your problem may be solved.

Link to manuals is at the top of the page.

"NOTE: The "Bilge" switch must be turned on for this feature to operate...."

[C_Heath]

Have you had a chance to read through the owner's manual yet? On page 1-3 of the 2000 manual it says that your keypad button will only turn on the bilge pump when the bilge pump switch is on. Your boat has a bilge pump that is wired to work when you are in any ignition mode (locked / accessory / run) but I think it gave owners the option of turning off the bilge pumps via another switch when you put the boat on a trailer or just don't want it cycling every 5 minutes. Perhaps there is this "bilge switch" upstream of your keypad and breaker box. All the keypad switch does is allows you to manually turn on the bilges by hitting the switch twice. While the keypad will cycle the relay, it sounds like your problem is that the relay is not getting power. Find this magical "bilge switch" and your problem may be solved.

Link to manuals is at the top of the page.

"NOTE: The "Bilge" switch must be turned on for this feature to operate...."

thanks for your insight! Yes I have read the manual. Section 1.3 states that when you press the bilge button once the pumps will cut on momentarily to look for water. My pumps don’t turn on. Also, it also says that it you want immediate pump action you can also push the button on, off, then back on and the pumps will turn on. Mine does not.

[C_Heath]

Also I have looked for a switch from the breaker box to the pump. Most of the wire is hidden under the boat but what I can find I can’t see any fuses or other switches.

[Chrisrog]

I’d suggest checking for continuity (not voltage) between each end of each wire just to verify the wires go where you think they go. I skipped this step last weekend while working on my anchor light before realizing I was troubleshooting the wrong circuit at one end.

[C_Heath]

I’d suggest checking for continuity (not voltage) between each end of each wire just to verify the wires go where you think they go. I skipped this step last weekend while working on my anchor light before realizing I was troubleshooting the wrong circuit at one end.

That was in my original post. It does have Continuity. Thanks for the input, still searching!

"My handheld meter also measures continuity by alarm and the bilge plug has continuity but when I switch it over to volts I get nothing"

[Rockymtnsurfer]

do you have this switch to the right of drivers seat?

[C_Heath]

do you have this switch to the right of drivers seat?

I do not.

[ally505]

The click from the PME box (if I’m thinking about the same thing) must be a breaker tripping, there are not any relays in there for the bilge pump circuit. When trouble shooting on older boats I generally hunt for voltage drops as opposed to continuity. All too often, a bad/corroded breaker can cause lots of problems. Run a separate cable from the output on the PME box to the bilge pump to verify all in order upstream so to speak Then it’s just a simple case of tracing the wiring back and testing. If it’s not working when you have the other cable in place,it would suggest a bad breaker if you are gaining continuity and no voltage

[C_Heath]

The click from the PME box must be a breaker tripping, there are not any relays in there for the bilge pump circuit. When trouble shooting on older boats I generally hunt for voltage drops as opposed to continuity. All too often, a bad/corroded breaker can cause lots of problems. Run a separate cable from the output on the PME box to the bilge pump to verify all in order upstream so to speak Then it’s just a simple case of tracing the wiring back and testing

I’m not sure if I am capable of that lol. I did see the wires coming out of the PME but no idea which one would be for the bilge wire. Something to look at for sure because I’m all out of leads so I just plugged the bilge pump into the ballast wire and when I need to pump pit the bilge I just hit the fill button on the key pad. I hate doing that tho. I want it to be right. Also the rear pump don’t work at all because it’s on the same power wire as the front one. . Not sure why they did that. You go from 2 pumps to none if something happens.

thanks for the input!!!!

[ally505]

I had a wiring diagram for a 230 that helped me isolate some wires on my 210. I’ll dig it out and send to you

[ally505]

Here you go

[C_Heath]

Here you go

awesome thanks.