Engine died; now have electric, but won't turn over

[yeahbuoy]

All was going fine breaking in my new-to-me 2005 SV-211 with new PCM 330 motor. Had reached about 14 hours on the meter. The family went out for a ride this afternoon. Very choppy due to EVERYONE being out enjoying this first great 80-degree weekend day. Darling daughter was driving us through the traffic and chop, when the engine without warning lost power and died. No coughing, no stuttering, no noise - just completely stopped. We still had power to the panel and radio. All attempts to restart have since failed. Panel powers up and switches work, bilge pumps work, blower works. But pressing start does not cause starter to work. I do hear a single quiet click when I press or release the start button on keypad. I have shut everything completely down, including battery switch off then powered back up, with no change. I was operating on battery 1+2 when the engine died, and have tried all settings since with no difference.

I've checked and double checked (even pulled out and checked visually) the emergency shutoff lanyard switch. A firm tug on the wires did cause one of the two to pull out of its lug connector, so I've crimped on a new one; still no change.
I've jiggled the throttle stick, and have taken it forward and reverse and back to neutral with no change.
I've checked all breakers, and none are tripped. Physically pushed all in, not just a visual inspection.
I've seen a lot of threads about the on/off/bilge switch, and it seems fine in that it allows keypad to power up and operate other controls/systems.

Why'd it quit? Why no start now?
What to check, what may have been shaken loose during rough ride?

Second issue, included here in case they are related:
I've been monitoring what appears to be low voltage. Console guage reads about 11V typically, around 13V when running at speed. Prior to this issue, voltage would drop slightly when cranking, then return to 12 or higher once started. Since the 11V concerned me, I had batteries tested and replaced one with a brand new battttery.(My hand held voltmeter is not reliable, but I'll be buying a new one tomorrow and will check at batteries.) Typically, it would take a few tries before starter would engage - first few presses of start would trigger fuel pump (a couple seconds of clicks) but not starter, then finally after a few tries the starter would engage, turn over, and fire right up.

Hoping that the experiences of those on this forum can help shed light on likely causes and course of action. Even some humor or sarcasm mixed in will be welcomed!

Thanks all!

[XBIGPUN66]

Check the battery cable connections. We had this issue a couple years ago and it was the battery connection that had come loose

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[NautiqueJeff]

Not sure why it would have died on you, but the no start condition sounds like a possible starter relay problem. That's very common.

[yeahbuoy]

Thanks, both.
i did some troubleshooting this morning, focused on electrical system. (My multimeter is dead so just relying on portable jump start booster and the voltmeter in instrument cluster.)

So I first just went through typical startup procedure, battery 1+2, All On, key code and start to unlock the system, and when I pressed START again, things sounded a bit more normal insofar as the clicks and such (fuel pump?) and gauges coming alive. Battery read about 11V on instruments. However trying to crank resulted in a weak click then no more. A couple more tries and all gauges went power down. Turned everything back off.

I follow the battery leads to double check which side is 1 and 2, and just to check conditions and connections. Negative sides both go to the metal frame in engine bay. Tight connections. Mental note to go back later and clean them up for good contact.

Positive battery terminals run to the battery switch. From the battery switch are two wires (10 or 12 gauge?) running to fuse holders. Fuses (one 50A slow, one 30A, ifI recall correctly?) are intact. However there is a third wire running to half a fuse holder, with no mating side to go with it. I’ll chase that one later.

I notice the battery 1 cable at the battery switch appears to have its rubber boot off, and it may be loose. Connection to the switch are underneath, so checking on that means disconnecting all battery connections and pulling up the battery switch. I’ll have to save that for later.

So I connected newest battery in battery position 1 to a charger / booster. After a ten minute (yes, I was impatient) refresh, I turn on battery 1, go through startup procedure, and it cranks and runs! I disconnect the charger, and after running 30 seconds the engine cuts off, just like in yesterday’s fateful cruise.

Repeated above on battery 2. After ten minute charge, it starts and runs. And runs and runs. Instruments show about 13.5V for about 5 mins, then drops to about 12.5V. Wiggling the battery 1 cable at the battery switch seems to cause the voltage shown on instruments to bobble between 11.5 and 13V, so appears it is indeed loose.

so I think I’m on the right path to a fix later this week, getting solid electrical connections first, then will check the starter relay. Hints to P/N and/or specs on that relay and it’s location would be much appreciated.

Thanks, gents!

[yeahbuoy]

Progress...
pulled the battery switch. Pretty dirty / oxidized but no corrosion. Some of the nuts were not tight. Cleaned everything up and put things back together.
All good on battery 2, but battery 1 still flakey.

A couple of times I’d hit start and power would die. Like, gauges dark, and even switching the toggle switch to bilge got nothing. Figured out that moving battery 1 positive cable would bring things back. I pulled the terminal clamp apart and found it was pretty dirty and oxidized inside. So clipped the battery lead a good inch-plus shorter to clean strands, put on a new terminal clamp. No more of things going dark. Good strong starts from either battery.

i still get an occasional hard click on start, rather than starter engaging and turning over. Meter reads about a tenth of a volt difference between battery and starter positives or grounds. Since there are three relays co-located, I swapped starter/fuel/ignition relays but no change. I may replace them anyway, but I figure it is pretty unlikely that all three would fail the same way at the same time.
starter doesn’t look rusty or dirty, but it appears to be older unit on new replacement engine. It may be next for replacement.
looks like we’ll have 80s here by mid week. I’ll give it all a good workout and judge from there.

Cheers all!