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Ok so I definitely need help determining the diagnostic port location on my 2006 Air 226 ZR6. Anybody know where this is and have a picture of it? Thanks in advance
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The diagnostic port is hanging between my FCC & heat exchanger.
So you can plug in the computer on that port.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G975F met Tapatalk
230 with ZR6 running on propane
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Ok so here are the results. This may not be the case for all ZR6 engines, however it is the case for mine. The diagnostic port on my 2006 PCM ZR6 6.0 is located on the right side of the engine when viewed from the rear, rear being opposite of the pulley's. In this case it is in a V-drive boat so the front of the engine faces the stern.
The diagnostic port is a rectangular 10 pin connector. It is plugged into a matching connector that only has 2 wires. See the MEFI diagnostic sheet that identifies the plug.
Whats unique about this plug is that typically these are capped off and you just uncap them and plug in (generally speaking). The opposing 2 wire plug sends information to the Faria Gateway under the dash. The 2 wire plug that is plugged into it is the same 2 wire triangular plug that enters the gateway with the sticker that says ALDL for "Assembly Line Diagnostic Link". It is through this harness that the ECM sends codes to the Faria Gateway. If you un-plug this connector the engine will stop sending information to the gateway and any alarms you are seeing in the digital display on the Tach will go away, because you just eliminated the feed, the code may still be present, but you can now read the code through this link.
In my case I have not been able to determine how to energize the ECM AKA put in the "RUN" mode without actually running the engine. I can tell you that hitting the start button 1 time so the run ready lamp lights up on the key pad does not energize the ECM. I am using this tool http://obd2allinone.com/mefiscan.asp for my scan. The only way I was able to populate the scanner with data was to run the engine. I still need to determine how to energize the ECM without running the engine. Hopefully I will edit this post once I figure this out. In either case, hopefully this post will save people time and energy.
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This will likely help me on my 2006 ZR6 - I just ordered the codemate reader and will need it to help with my intermittent check engine light. Thank you!Comment
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Yeah keep me posted. I am dealing with ignition fault codes and random alarms, power reduction mode disabling cylinders etc.....Comment
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Yeah - I saw your other post. I get an occasional Check Engine Light, but zero effect on performance. If I turn off the battery and turn it back on, it stays off until it decides it wants to come back on. I don't have any of the other issues you mention. That's why I am buying the codemate.Comment
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You can diagnose codes with a paperclip and a test light or a multimeter. I am going to reset mine tonight and lake test Friday. One of the issues is that the diagnostic abilities of the MEFI 4 ECM are very basic. It basically a process of determining if sensors are operating within their "range". Definitely read the MEFI 4 manual it has good info regarding diagnostics.Originally posted by jkallen21 View PostComment
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Andy - please look at this youtube if you get a chance. I am trying to figure out the cable routing for the diags cable. I see on your photos that perhaps yours goes straight back across the cooler on the port side, but I can't tell if that's the same cable or not. thanks for any help.Comment
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Thats it. Mine is a little different, it runs straight out towards the stern across the mufflers on the port side muffler. I also do not know where that mounting tab goes, no clear answer for me either. I zip tied mine just outside the ZR6 cover so it was accessible without the removal of that cover. The 2-wire (red & black) side of that plug sends data to the faria. You can run the engine without that plugged in. It just stops sending data to the faria, gauges go dead.
I have since determined the method for reading the codes using a paper clip and a multimeter. Watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSEwwa6D2jM
You can clear the codes doing this:
***Put the ignition "key" into the diagnostic "on" position. To do so, with the touch panel in the off position, hit the start button 1 time to ready the system (light comes on) then hit the start button 1 more time quickly, do not roll over the engine during this step, (second light comes on). The engine is now in the key on position, you will hear the fuel pump prime.**
Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Non-
Scan)
1. Install Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) tool.
2. Ignition “ON,” engine “OFF.”
3. Switch DTC tool to “service mode” or “ON.” A paper clip jumper between the A & B terminals puts the system into service mode.
4. Move the throttle from 0% (idle) to 100% (WOT) and
back to 0%.
5. Switch DTC tool to “normal mode” or “OFF.” (If this
step is not performed, the engine may not start and
run). Take the paper clip out of terminals A & B to take it out of service mode.
6. Turn ignition “OFF” for at least 20 seconds.
7. Ignition “ON,” engine “OFF.”
8. Switch DTC tool to “service mode” or “ON” and verify
DTC 12 only. Remove DTC tool.
9. If original DTC(s) are still present, check “Notice” below
and repeat the DTC clearing procedure.
10. If new DTC(s) are displayed, perform the OBD system
check.
NOTICE: When clearing DTC’s with or without the use of a
scan tool, the ignition must be cycled to the “OFF” position
or the DTC’s will not clear.
Hope this is helpful, good luck.Comment
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thanks for posting this andy. do you know how to determine what the codes mean? I haven't been able to track down a service manual anywhere.Comment
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This page lists all the codes as well as how to interpret the blink/tone patterns depending on what you're using to diagnose (light vs multimeter)
https://www.rinda.com/acro/codemate.pdfComment
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