2020 GS24 will sometimes not start after running music and floating with engine off

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    aerojust, hey Bud, I could really use that write up about now...

    Edit: Whoops, I found it, took me a bit - Good job & thanks
    https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...nd-replacement
    Last edited by Scooter G; 06-19-2024, 10:03 AM.

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    $600 and some change, an hour of swet, 12 hours of diagnostics, and on the water again pre-mid July.
    Not bad, good job. Thanks for the follow up. You gotta be happy with that!!

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  • gonefishin5555
    replied
    just to follow up on this. I had the new part with me and still tried to get the old one to work but it wouldnt go so I swapped out the throttle assembly and the boat fired right up. It was a quick fix maybe 45 minutes with a screw driver pliers and also needed an allen wrench for the bolt that holds the throttle on. Now I am going to call the company that makes the part and see about a rebuild on the one we pulled off and I will keep it as a spare.

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  • gonefishin5555
    replied
    Can't get into the dealer until mid July which is about what I expected. Gonna spend a day troubleshooting before I decide to buy another throttle assembly. My partner said the keypad lights were flashing? sounds like a bad circuit or a short. A two year old part should not crap out that fast. edit partner wanted to buy the part says he checked all the wiring etc and thinks its the throttle assembly so I got one coming by two day shipping total with tax and some xmas tree clips was $602. If it doesnt do the trick I'm either keeping it as a back up or selling off at a discount...stay tuned.
    Last edited by gonefishin5555; 06-26-2023, 09:20 PM.

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    You'll have the shipping and tax on top of the NP price. Assuming the buyer would pick up the shipping minus the $100 bones, I bet you might have a pretty good shot at that. Might not be in a day or a week, but everyone likes a discount.
    That's a bummer, bad timing, good luck.

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  • gonefishin5555
    replied
    two years later after replacing the throttle assembly and my boat partner said the boat would not start this past weekend. He fiddled around with putting the shifter in and out of gear and he check some connections but he could not get it to start at all whereas before we got it to start eventually every time. Seems like a repeat of past don't know if I should just buy a new throttle assembly and try to get it going by the holiday coming up next week. I'll see what the dealer says. So if I buy a throttle assembly and its not the issue do you guys think I could resell it on here at a $100 discount?

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    Glad you got it all solved, thanks for the awesome follow through!
    I know this will all help someone down the road, or down the river...

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  • aerojust
    replied
    Scooter G Yes, I replaced the Throttle Base. - https://nautiqueparts.com/throttle-base-assembly/ -
    In hindsight, I should have fired up the camera and did a quick tutorial, but I did not and have no pictures. I always forgot to do this in the moment.
    I think that the way you suggested putting the clamps in the fiberglass first may work better, but not an expert on this. On the top armrest there were some in the trim and some in the fiberglass. It was much easier to attach as it was easy to pound it down with my hand, whereas the seat was in the way on the side piece.

    I am going to write up what I did on a new thread with an appropriate title for future reference.

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    Creative use of resources, a 9mm, I'll try anything once (next time).
    Little late showing up to help, but I place the CT clips on the body surface 1st and then bring the trim to the Christmas party, either way works, always looking for the hack in the process.
    So just to be clear aerojust, you replaced the Throttle Base? Do you have any pictures of that process?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	170156-1__37249.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.2 KB ID:	665762
    Last edited by Scooter G; 06-14-2023, 02:13 PM.

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  • aerojust
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	BF519720-411D-408F-9CA8-4A363EF91CDF.jpg
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ID:	665752 Final update. I was able to reuse some of the clips. I used a 9mm closed wrench to seat them in the trim. Make sure the boat has the same number of holes in the fiberglass as the trim. Mine had an extra trim hole and I had to pull the halfway installed trim off to remove the xtra clip.
    Last edited by aerojust; 06-14-2023, 12:49 PM.

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  • aerojust
    replied
    To close the loop: I installed a new throttle box and it resolved the issue. No clicking and it cranks. My neutral switch also now works, whereas before it did not. Prior to the install I called the vendor and talked to an engineer there. He told me if you hear clicking it is on its way out. He offered to rebuild my box for ~$200 and a few weeks lead time. If you do the replacement make sure to order a bunch of the christmas tree upholstery clamps. I was not able to reuse many and a few I had to cut off and push through. I would say you need about 15 or 20 on a SAN 230.

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  • aerojust
    replied
    Put me in the club. Last season it would not start once in a while. A quick jiggle if the throttle and no problem. Tonight I spent a good 5 minutes messing with it to get her to start. I can hear something that sounds like a seleniod clicking under the throttle plate. It clicks as a jiggle the throttle and in neutral. Also my neutral rev switch has not worked in a while. Never use it so was not worried about it. Anyone else experience the clicking noise? Can anyone point me to something that describes how to pull the trim apart to replace it? All seems really tight on inspection.

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  • bturner
    replied
    Hmmmm, that's odd. I wonder if Jeff knows anything about this. Seems he's owned about 2 of everything in the Nautique line by now.'

    BTW my throttle disconnect doesn't work either, at least 90% of the time. From what I've read it's the either the throttle position switch or the throttle lever assembly.

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  • Scooter G
    replied
    I agree with everything you said bturner, and I'm super OCD when it comes to wiring. I have seen a fuse to ground on a few occasions, always questioned it. Both batteries have this 15A wire to ground. They both run into a factory loom, and then into a larger factory loom, taped and tagged. I would only spend a month if I was lucky trying to track those down even with a sounder. Scratching my head, if they weren't supposed to be to ground (and that thought did occur to me) something would of smoked by now, but also nothing changed after I hooked the other wire up. We were out most of the day, along with everyone else and their dogs (boat started every time BTW). There are no apparent changes or upgrades to the boat, nothing, nada. I would like to poke my head in another G to see if they have similar, maybe someone could chime in next time you pull your plug. The only thing that doesn't work on the boat is the the throttle to gear disable button, or user error and I haven't figured out how it works yet. I'll pull a panel someday and check if the button is unclipped. Thanks for the feedback my Friend.

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  • bturner
    replied
    The fuse on the ground really bothers me. So, the reason you put the fuse on the positive side and as close to the power source as possible is to protect the device but more importantly the wire. What to I mean by this you say? Well if you have a short or over current between the device and ground you blow the fuse protecting the device, but not the wire. If you have a short on the positive side there's nothing to protect the wire between the positive and the short. That short now becomes the ground completing the circuit. You now have basically an ignitor wire that is going to glow red hot and start burning thorough things until the circuit opens or the power source is removed. This is not good.

    If you didn't buy the boat new there's a good chance someone could have down some custom wiring for you in there. I personally would trace that wire and find out where it's going. If there was a previous owner there's a good chance they didn't follow marine color code for wring and used a black wire for the positive side of the circuit. I've seen people that do house wiring use black for hot in 12 volt applications which is completely wrong. I've also seen car guy hacks use black for both positive and negative.

    I'm also a strong believer that the only wires going to the battery should be the primary power cables with possibly the exception of the bilge pump but even that can be wired at the main power switch. Everything else can should be wired to bus bars. This eliminates the type of issue here where a wire doesn't get connected or there is a chance to connect it to the wrong post. When I'm correcting or rewiring power circuits I purposely make the cables so they are just long enough to connect to the batteries correctly. That of course doesn't stop someone committed to installing them backwards but at least I've done what I could to prevent stupid to the best of my ability.

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