2020 GS24 will sometimes not start after running music and floating with engine off

[BasaltRMK]

Scooter G - I don't have anything too helpful, just commiseration and a couple of thoughts. First off, sounds to me like the throttle base assembly, given what I've read here and discussed with my dealer when they proactively replaced mine under warranty. I wonder if there was a recall or service bulletin, given that mine was replaced without encountering any issues? Might be worth checking with your dealer just in case they could get you a new one for free or dealer cost.

Secondly, I'm assuming your FCC is priming (when you say everything else was live)? I had an FCC issue that prevented starting on my previous G21, but thinking about it the boat would crank just not fire, which is not your issue.

Re: ballast readings, have you already swapped to the upgraded ballast senders? Not related to the starting issue (to my knowledge), but mine would jump around like you describe when they started to fail.

Doubt any of this will be actually helpful, but good luck!

- bob

[Scooter G]

Good stuff as always BasaltRMK, thanks.
I have a couple connections, dealer & NP that I can put out some feelers (and our 10% PN Discount, thanks Jeff). Boat sat at the dealer in Washington for about 3 weeks in January of last year while they punched out everything on the last remaining breath of the warranty list, throttle never came up, but it's worth a shot. It's bizarre sometimes dealing with mechanical/electrical, you would think something would just start slowly creeping up, like a prarie dog in the Spring. "Well now that was strange, it's never done that before", instead of Houston we have a full on consistant problem. You mentioned the FCC, I believe all noises, lights, display, and activity are normal, start button just isn't playing well with others. I think I should be able to diagnose the throttle switch based on the electrical.pdf that I attached. I'll run a batteries and connection test before I pull out the meter and head that direction.
The Dealer missed the Ballast Sensors, I had 2 bad ones, now I know how to replace them, grrr. I called the previous owner out on it, "I never looked at the fill screen, I just filled until water was coming out of the ports", goofball, lol. Word to the wise, never buy a boat without a full water test, you think I would know better...

[BasaltRMK]

Gotta love a good connection, fingers crossed that it's resolved asap. 'never looked at the fill screen' - really??

- bob

[jpwhit]

I would think there would be a way to diagnose the throttle assembly, prior to throwing down $600 on a maybe part, I just can't find anything on the how to.

You diagnosis issues with the throttle base assembly using Rhinda Diacom. But unfortunately, you have to do the diagnosis when the no-start situation happens. As far as I know, there is no recall or service bulletin for issues with the throttle base assembly. If that is your issue, you can send it to Livorsi for repair rather than replacing it.

[Scooter G]

Thanks jpwhit. Diacom would mean Dealer for me, and this time of year, see you in July, or nope couldn't get it to replicate. Livorsi, see you in July, lol. Super good stuff to know for future reference, or for when something goes down on the last run of the season (never).

[Scooter G]

I thought about throwing this to a new thread, but I'll just take it from here with a recent intermittent no start problem.
Started poking around a little, and had read about someone having issues with the fuse box on top of the engine (starting relays, fuses & misc.). Badly seated fuses were causing a start problem.


Found an unwanted visitor, I think he died on a hunger strike. Pulled, cleaned and re-seated fuses & relays.

Checked starter connections, all looked good.


Checked battery connections & voltage. I didn't do a load test, but both batteries are fairly new and registered 12.99 volts.

Interesting, and maybe someone can answer this question. There was a disconnected fused 15A ground wire on the port side battery (shown in the picture), and it's twin brother (connected) on the other battery. I went ahead and hooked it to the ground, but have no idea what is for? As far as I know everything is working on the boat (minus the start problem).

Another question. On the engine front wiring harness, I have an unconnected open terminal with no plug cap. Maybe a test terminal I'm thinking?


Yet another question, several of the main harness terminals are labeled as in this picture. I'm pretty sure this is not a factory thing, unless it was someone's 1st day. Is this an indication that you are thinking what I am thinking?


OK, moving forward, brief visual inspection, checked that harness plugs were tight in all areas that I could see, access & touch. Off to the lake, boat started 1st shot on dump in (still on the trailer of coarse), and we're off. Well almost, parked the trailer and sat on the dock for 10 minutes while my Son floated trying to re-start. Fire in the hole, good to go, again. So at this point do you just leave it running the entire session?
No sorry, not my style. No start again, umm, saw that coming.
Had my Son keep his finger on the start button and I went to work. For some reason my mind keep going back to the main wiring harness on the front of the engine. I grabbed the whole wad and gave it a squeeze, boom, fired. Felt like a boom because my face was next to the starter, lol.




2 choices, and not much room to work with unless you pull the exhaust manifold Y pipe (sure it has a proper name), do we start stripping tape to find the culprit, or do what any logical thinking Redneck would do?

That's right Ricky Bobby, so if squeezing it works, in theory adding more cable ties applies the Anaconda squeeze and accomplishes the same thing.
We had green light ignition the rest of the day. No duck tape or bailing wire was used in this scenario.
Our Supra had a similar problem and it ended up being a bad factory splice on one wire, took us a whole season to figure it out.
I know I am probably buying time, but for now, saves us a Saturday pulling parts to get to the root.
Any guesses to what wire, and what is going on inside the bundle of madness?
I may have forgotten, but I haven't seen much listed as to this scenario playing out for an intermittent starting problem...

Other references for anyone having starting issues:
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...2015-g23/page2
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...wiring-harness

[bturner]

The fuse on the ground really bothers me. So, the reason you put the fuse on the positive side and as close to the power source as possible is to protect the device but more importantly the wire. What to I mean by this you say? Well if you have a short or over current between the device and ground you blow the fuse protecting the device, but not the wire. If you have a short on the positive side there's nothing to protect the wire between the positive and the short. That short now becomes the ground completing the circuit. You now have basically an ignitor wire that is going to glow red hot and start burning thorough things until the circuit opens or the power source is removed. This is not good.

If you didn't buy the boat new there's a good chance someone could have down some custom wiring for you in there. I personally would trace that wire and find out where it's going. If there was a previous owner there's a good chance they didn't follow marine color code for wring and used a black wire for the positive side of the circuit. I've seen people that do house wiring use black for hot in 12 volt applications which is completely wrong. I've also seen car guy hacks use black for both positive and negative.

I'm also a strong believer that the only wires going to the battery should be the primary power cables with possibly the exception of the bilge pump but even that can be wired at the main power switch. Everything else can should be wired to bus bars. This eliminates the type of issue here where a wire doesn't get connected or there is a chance to connect it to the wrong post. When I'm correcting or rewiring power circuits I purposely make the cables so they are just long enough to connect to the batteries correctly. That of course doesn't stop someone committed to installing them backwards but at least I've done what I could to prevent stupid to the best of my ability.

[Scooter G]

I agree with everything you said bturner, and I'm super OCD when it comes to wiring. I have seen a fuse to ground on a few occasions, always questioned it. Both batteries have this 15A wire to ground. They both run into a factory loom, and then into a larger factory loom, taped and tagged. I would only spend a month if I was lucky trying to track those down even with a sounder. Scratching my head, if they weren't supposed to be to ground (and that thought did occur to me) something would of smoked by now, but also nothing changed after I hooked the other wire up. We were out most of the day, along with everyone else and their dogs (boat started every time BTW). There are no apparent changes or upgrades to the boat, nothing, nada. I would like to poke my head in another G to see if they have similar, maybe someone could chime in next time you pull your plug. The only thing that doesn't work on the boat is the the throttle to gear disable button, or user error and I haven't figured out how it works yet. I'll pull a panel someday and check if the button is unclipped. Thanks for the feedback my Friend.

[bturner]

Hmmmm, that's odd. I wonder if Jeff knows anything about this. Seems he's owned about 2 of everything in the Nautique line by now.'

BTW my throttle disconnect doesn't work either, at least 90% of the time. From what I've read it's the either the throttle position switch or the throttle lever assembly.

[aerojust]

Put me in the club. Last season it would not start once in a while. A quick jiggle if the throttle and no problem. Tonight I spent a good 5 minutes messing with it to get her to start. I can hear something that sounds like a seleniod clicking under the throttle plate. It clicks as a jiggle the throttle and in neutral. Also my neutral rev switch has not worked in a while. Never use it so was not worried about it. Anyone else experience the clicking noise? Can anyone point me to something that describes how to pull the trim apart to replace it? All seems really tight on inspection.

[aerojust]

To close the loop: I installed a new throttle box and it resolved the issue. No clicking and it cranks. My neutral switch also now works, whereas before it did not. Prior to the install I called the vendor and talked to an engineer there. He told me if you hear clicking it is on its way out. He offered to rebuild my box for ~$200 and a few weeks lead time. If you do the replacement make sure to order a bunch of the christmas tree upholstery clamps. I was not able to reuse many and a few I had to cut off and push through. I would say you need about 15 or 20 on a SAN 230.

[aerojust]

Final update. I was able to reuse some of the clips. I used a 9mm closed wrench to seat them in the trim. Make sure the boat has the same number of holes in the fiberglass as the trim. Mine had an extra trim hole and I had to pull the halfway installed trim off to remove the xtra clip.

[Scooter G]

Creative use of resources, a 9mm, I'll try anything once (next time).
Little late showing up to help, but I place the CT clips on the body surface 1st and then bring the trim to the Christmas party, either way works, always looking for the hack in the process.
So just to be clear aerojust, you replaced the Throttle Base? Do you have any pictures of that process?

[aerojust]

Scooter G Yes, I replaced the Throttle Base. - https://nautiqueparts.com/throttle-base-assembly/ -
In hindsight, I should have fired up the camera and did a quick tutorial, but I did not and have no pictures. I always forgot to do this in the moment.
I think that the way you suggested putting the clamps in the fiberglass first may work better, but not an expert on this. On the top armrest there were some in the trim and some in the fiberglass. It was much easier to attach as it was easy to pound it down with my hand, whereas the seat was in the way on the side piece.

I am going to write up what I did on a new thread with an appropriate title for future reference.

[Scooter G]

Glad you got it all solved, thanks for the awesome follow through!
I know this will all help someone down the road, or down the river...