Perfect Pass Causing Limp Mode?

[MTRBTR]

I have an 06 SV 211 that I bought 2 seasons ago. As of right now it still only has 234 hours on it. 330 Excalibur engine. Some times when the Perfect Pass is on, if I take off pulling a skiier or rider as soon as I put the throttle down it seems to go into limp mode. It doesn't shut down and there are no warning lights or messages, it just goes to idle speed. If you turn it off and turn it back on it will usually run fine. There seems to be no power loss and all fluid levels look good. I though maybe when I started it and put it into gear too soon before the perfect pass boots up all the way that was it. But I dont think that's what it is. I have never had it happen when the perfect pass is off. I know that if you are in gear and you turn the perfect pass on it is supposed to do that but it seems to do it when I rev the throttle to take off pulling a skiier and only sporadically. Any thoughts?

[NautiqueJeff]

Well, that's definitely NOT limp mode. It sounds more like a throttle position sensor issue or something like that to me.

[MTRBTR]

After reasearching a throttle position sensor I think you are probably right Jeff. Also I read about needing to lubricate the perfect pass cable. Anyone have any experience with that and how to do it? Also where is the throttle position sensor?

[mpost]

Found this in the Manulas /Brochures section.
Page 10 and 16
2006 Parts Manual - PCM 5.0 & 5.7 Engines

[MTRBTR]

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...tiometer-assy/

So if it was the sensor, it appears this would be the part I need. Looking for some confirmation.

[mpost]

Well the TCP sensor is R119004 part number but I see NP cant find that number so maybe it only comes as the assembly. Mainly gave you the link to show where the sensor is, not saying that I think that is the problem.

[jkallen21]

Before you replace that (because I did as well and it wasn’t my problem), look behind the driver kick plate (4 screws) and make sure your battery cables are well attached.

[MTRBTR]

Before you replace that (because I did as well and it wasn’t my problem), look behind the driver kick plate (4 screws) and make sure your battery cables are well attached.

Thanks for the suggestion. What should be they be well attached to? I just was in looking in that area this weekend and didnt see any battery cables down in that area.

Also what difference did it make? Or why would it make a difference? I guess I am not following why that would cause a problem. I dont seem to be loosing batery power.

I had it out today and it never did it once so it seems to be very sporatic. Still wondering if it is because I put it in gear right after starting it before the perfect pass boots up all the way.

[jkallen21]

In my case, I would hit a wake and it would cause this weird on-site on where the engine was still running but I could not accelerate until I powered down and back on again. It started out as very occasional and grew worse over time - and a lot more sensitive. I would never lose 100% of power (The engine was still running) but I had no ability to make the boat accelerate at all.
The cables were clearly loose when I removed the kickplate. Tightening them was an instant fix.
I replaced the potentiometer as suggested on this forum but that offered no relief.

[jkallen21]

Also, the battery cables were clearly different than the other cables/wires. They were thicker and I believe they were black and red.

[MTRBTR]

I found them. They seemed tight already but I gave them another turn. I assume you were talking about the ones that were attached to the gateway box.
Haven’t had a chance to run it since. Last time we were out I had no issues either to hard to say.