I have a 2006 220TE. The starboard hard tank will fill but pump does not come on to drain. I switched out the port sender which was filling and draining and still no luck. I was going to switch plugs for the port pump but two or the 3 are wired together without plug disconnect. Going to rewire with a plug. I don’t think the gauges are working none of them to my knowledge were showing full. Wondering if anyone has any ideas. Thanks.
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Here’s is video i made that night get you on the right track. Someone on here wrote an incredible guide for this problem. I’ll see if i can find it. I have the same boat BTW. https://youtu.be/qDaHGbA97ug
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I found the post I referred to above. It was posted by TechBeer and can be found here: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...-in-2006-sv211
If that link doesn't work - his write up is here: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...5&d=1566231662
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Jkallen's video is excellent. Between my write-up and his video you should be able to figure it out. As I talk about in my write-up it seems like the sender units are the weak link, and they are pretty expensive. In my 2006 SV211 (very similar to a 220TE) 2 of my sender units (port and starboard) don't work. I would start out with the "reverse polarity" jumpers, right at the pumps, just to make sure that your pumps will run in both directions (I'm quite sure they will). Then maybe take a look at my "run dry bypass plug" thingy. I'm big into wake surfing these days so I'm constantly filling and draining the hard tanks. You have to pay attention to the sounds that the pumps make so that you can turn them off when they are empty, but other than that it works great. I will typically empty them one at a time so I can hear when the pump goes "silent", indicating that the tank is empty.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
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Sounds good. I probably would have done this except that I pulled out the "Run Dry Module" and it was sitting on my lab bench. At that point I didn't want to put it back in so I just created the bypass plug. Rotating the POTs all the way clockwise is essentially bypassing the sender units. If that doesn't work you have a wiring issue.
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TechBeer. Update. I increase the threshold on that controller and now all three turn on with solid light and also with the flashing light in reverse. I haven’t tested in the water yet to actually see if they pump in and out but I will be putting on the water this week. I also wired three of the same plugs on each pump so I can switch them around if I need to. Thanks a lot. I have your PDF bookmarked for the future.
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If they make noise and the lights on the buttons work I'm quite sure they will pump in and out. I actually replaced the impeller on the starboard and port pumps (after ~15 years) which was fairly easy to do. The belly pump is hard to get to so I haven't done that one yet.
Only thing to watch out for is when you are emptying them to not let the pumps run dry too long. I generally run one pump at a time so it's really obvious when the tank is dry. In my boat the sound changes from a humming to almost silent when there is no water left. Or if you put your boat on a lift or trailer you can run the empty direction and water will spew out the bottom of the boat.
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I added a light coating of grease to the inside of the impeller housing when I replaced the impellers. One more tip is when I’m done pumping out and parking the boat for the day, I always run the pumps to pump IN for about 5 seconds. This reverses the impeller direction which keeps the impeller from becoming naturally formed in the OUT direction which makes the motor work harder to get started the next time I’m in the boat.
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Jkallen, that is actually a really good idea. I tend to do the opposite which is once the boat is lifted I'll run them in the pump out direction to make sure the tanks are really empty. This is very obvious when the boat is lifted since the water comes out the bottom. Honestly I'm not sure why I do that other than to get the weight out of the boat. But I like your idea better......
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