RV Antifreeze or Straight antifreeze

[boysrus]

slob02 is correct on this. The pink RV antifreeze is an alcohol base made soley for protecting plumbing systems (typically plastic). It will not provide any corrosion protection for your engine/manifolds and quickly looses freeze protection with dilution.

I have heard of many people using it without problem, but these engines are extremely expensive, so personally - I can't take that chance.

I prefer propylene glycol (environmentally safe engine antifreeze). After 30 years of doing it (including 10 years as a marine mechanic), I have a pretty good system of filling and then recapturing the antifreeze in the spring for re-use next fall. This minimizes the expense and keeps chemicals out of the lakes.

Good luck.

[slob02]

BOYSRUS.................You explain it better than I do! Thanks!

[Bremsen]

Propylene glycol is RV antifreeze, at least the "RV" antifreeze I bought last season.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/FREEZBANCASE.htm

[boysrus]

Bremsen - that's good. the stuff I see at wallyworld usually isn't.

[TRBenj]

Question: is any propylene glycol antifreeze going to have the corresion protection suitable for our motors? The cheapo RV/Marine antifreeze (pink) that I saw at KMart yesterday said it was propylene glycol. It didnt say it was unsuitable for engines.

[boysrus]

TRBenj,

The fact that it's propelyne glycol would make me more comfortable about the freeze protection, but I don't know about the corrosion inhibitors.

My guess would be that if it's formulated for drinking water systems in RV's, then it couldn't have too many additives - and probably doesn't have any additional corrosion protection.

Even at that, it's still going to be better than leaving the block/manifolds empty, just due to displacing the air. As previous posts have noted, many people seem to be using it and not having problems.

Personally, I'll stick with one that is formulated for engines - just because I want (actually NEED) my engine to last a long time, and this is cheap insurance.

[jmo]

Hey all,

Just a few other thoughts: if you use the green/auto anti-freeze keep in mind this will mess with your impeller as the rubber will swell and could become damaged when your fire it up in the Spring.

Last year I did the RV antifreeze through the system after draining all the water and it worked quite well.

However, New England Correct Craft told me they always completely drain the system and leave the drain plugs out (it gets quite cold in New Hampshire) and they have never had a problem. They also said they spoke with the Engine Manufacturer about the block rusting out (exposed to the air) and they said it would take 200 years for that to happen.

This is one of those religious topics (like what weight of motor oil to use) where clear guidance from CC themselves would be really nice. I know I'd sleep better in the Winter knowing I had followed CC's "best practices", which are up to date, geographically aware, and in sync with PCM AND Ford/GM.

[TRBenj]

Just a few other thoughts: if you use the green/auto anti-freeze keep in mind this will mess with your impeller as the rubber will swell and could become damaged when your fire it up in the Spring.

Last year I did the RV antifreeze through the system after draining all the water and it worked quite well.

I remove the raw water pump from the boat and the impeller from the pump when I winterize. I used RV antifreeze last year for the first time and it worked well- very easy. My dad has always backfilled with antifreeze on our boats, and I think its cheap insurance to dilute any remaining water in the block. I believe my motor was simply drained every year prior to me owning it. I saw no ill effects from corrosion when I had the motor apart.

jmo, where are you located in Mass?

[jmo]

TRBenj - I sent you a PM to answer your question - was that you pulling a sport nautique with a tower this morning on Quinsigamond?

[TRBenj]

Nope, wasnt me- I didnt get to the lake this weekend. Even though I live in MA now, I keep the boat on a small lake in northwest CT.

[newwakesurfer]

Raw water sump orientation

"I do not drain my block but run gallons undiluted via the strainer hose. Now with the SAN, I use a fat sac pump in the bucket under the exhaust, pump to another bucket, and recycle it for about 20 minutes, run the heater, shower, etc. "

Just completed the winterization as described above - great tip - thanks Wakeslayer!! It took me an hour to setup and completely fill system with LOW TOX Prestone anti freeze (propylene glycol). I was able to set up a plastic garbage can below the exhaust and use fat sac pump to recycle anti freeze through system via the strainer hose. Very easy and simple to complete - then pulled the impeller out. BUT, I forgot to note the orientation of the raw water pump (distracted for a minute) - anybody have a trick on reassembly of raw wate pump and impeller??? (and do you pour dishwater soup in housing in the spring to keep it lubed up before water hits the housing?).

[Revman]

I winterized my boat this weekend and I used Pink RV antifreeze made by Prestone that I picked up at the local hardware store. The label says "Corrosion protection added". It also says that it provides protection to all metal and plastic pipes. It also says Not to use in gasoline or Diesel engines. Now taken that in mine, I think what they are implying is not to run a closed cooling system in a combustion engine with it. I think there would be no problem using it in a gasoline engine for winterizing...I agree on draining the engine (BOTH SIDES OF THE BLOCK) before adding the Antifreeze. I used about 3 gallons total to do my engine.