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I had the opportunity to pick up a G21 tower at a very good deal, so I finally got around to installing it over the last few weeks. Thought I would put up some photos. I wish I had a before photo, but the black was somewhat dull, so I used mothers mag and aluminum polish and it brought the shine right back. I just waxed it with a ceramic basic wax after.
Removal of old tower (I reinforced the carport roof supports for the hoist, even though the tower isn't that heavy) When securing your tower to the hoist, be sure to attach to points that won't slide or move. You do not want the tower falling on you or your boat. The new tower is a bit heavier than the old one, maybe another 60-80#. remove all accessories from tower(s) before install, that's less weight to be swinging around.
The feet were almost a part of the deck, a few rapps with a rubber mallet got them loose. I believe it was a 1 1/16" socket for the 4 tower leg bolts. I used an air ratchet for ease.there are also 4 smaller bolts to remove on each foot as well.
The old residue came off pretty easy with some mothers mag and aluminum polish. I also drilled these out (chamfer the holes a bit) and added 2 new cup holders - Bonus!
Looks naked!
Remove the interior trim pieces (pop out the Christmas tree anchors, may help to use a trim removal tool) and then remove the plastic boxes and grab handles, being careful not to lose hardware in the hull. Phillips driver and I believe it was a 10mm open end I used. It's next to impossible to do this job without removing the interior trim. The starboard side is little more because you need to remove the flip up seat which is attached through the trim. be careful and take your time here. While you have all the trim off, might as well clean everything behind there, the surface and carpet behind as well.
Measuring and patterns. I got lucky and was provided with patterns but they can easily be made with plastic sheet. I got a view of where the previous tow point was in reference to the gunnel, and marked it, and referenced that as close as I could with the new tower and came up with about 2 1/2" from the windshield trim. I also made sure the measurement was the same on each side and the same distance from the center point of the fuel fills. My boat had the Nautique step pads that needed to be removed with several Phillips screws each side. these are inset into the hull and are completely covered up with the new tower. There are 9 holes that need to be drilled on each side, which includes a 3/4" hole that I drilled for the wiring. Tape the patterns in place and mark them so you can tell if there is any movement, then remove the pattern. When you drill, start a pilot dimple, then run the drill in reverse most of the way. You can take a larger drill bit and chamfer the holes (use reverse) after your done to help prevent spiders. My rule is measure three times, check with the pattern again, drink a beer and breathe, then drill. Do not get in a hurry, mistakes can be very expensive to fix. I used one size smaller than 1/2" bit for the stud holes. The studs screw into the bottom of the feet with hex heads. I believe you can order studs from Roswell and I would recommend using new studs/nylock nuts.
I found a good thin tear proof rubber gasket material at a local shop and cut out what I needed. This is sticky back so I used a little rubbing alcohol to clean the surface then lined it up and applied.
Carefully line up the studs with the holes and slowly lower the hoist so you can gently (as gently as can be anyway) lower the feet into position. You'll need to guide the wires through the larger access hole you drilled first.
I made 3/16" aluminum backing plates for the permanent install (3" wide), but just lightly secured it for a test fit and wanted to give an idea of how much room there is. Again, an air angle ratchet makes this job way easier, just don't over tighten. I get it close with air, then the last few turns by hand. By the way, the original aluminum plate for the old feet appears permanently attached, and I was able to use that and drilled it for the for two studs on the new tower. With the aluminum plate, you can snug the bolts pretty tight.
test fit is good! I never realized the view was that much better without the front tower legs!
Labeling of wires, This tower had a lot of overspray on the wiring and thus I couldn't make out the labels. I used a 9 volt battery and simply touched pairs till I found what was what. Same with the nav and contest wires. This tower has the speakers with the down facing runway lights so a blue wire and common ground is needed. I also ran another wire off the courtesy and secured it behind the hull inset for later if I wanted to add anything. And, I just placed a simple switch in the starboard inset area so I could switch on/off the runway lights as desired. They are wired so that the dash switch turns them on with the other courtesy lights. Use marine heat shrink connectors and tinned wire when possible.
Need to modify the cover. The cover fit perfectly (got lucky) around the front of the base, but just needed a slight modification for the rear of the base. Local guy here in Orlando did a great job and only took him about an hour.
It came out great! no pic of the front as he just sewed in a cover underneath with extra strength to make the holes basically non existent. Also added reinforcement around the tower foot.
Job is done, enjoy a cold beverage! Overall I am very happy with the install. I spent several days over the course of a week or so, and it wasn't super easy, but it makes it look like a new boat! Lots of compliments already. The speakers look and sound great, and the bimini/cargo rack offers more coverage than my old one. The strapless racks work excellent. I will eventually upgrade my amp but for now I just hooked it up as it was before, 4 wires running from one amp channel to all four tower speakers and it sounds good. One pair are Roswell horns and the other are the focal speakers. This tower is very solid and substantial. The large mounting surface and 8 studs per side are more than enough to offer the strength needed for the task.
I have already sold the old bimini, speakers and rack, and just need to sell the old tower now.
Cheers and if you find yourself doing this project, I am happy to try and answer any questions.
Mike
Removal of old tower (I reinforced the carport roof supports for the hoist, even though the tower isn't that heavy) When securing your tower to the hoist, be sure to attach to points that won't slide or move. You do not want the tower falling on you or your boat. The new tower is a bit heavier than the old one, maybe another 60-80#. remove all accessories from tower(s) before install, that's less weight to be swinging around.
The feet were almost a part of the deck, a few rapps with a rubber mallet got them loose. I believe it was a 1 1/16" socket for the 4 tower leg bolts. I used an air ratchet for ease.there are also 4 smaller bolts to remove on each foot as well.
The old residue came off pretty easy with some mothers mag and aluminum polish. I also drilled these out (chamfer the holes a bit) and added 2 new cup holders - Bonus!
Looks naked!
Remove the interior trim pieces (pop out the Christmas tree anchors, may help to use a trim removal tool) and then remove the plastic boxes and grab handles, being careful not to lose hardware in the hull. Phillips driver and I believe it was a 10mm open end I used. It's next to impossible to do this job without removing the interior trim. The starboard side is little more because you need to remove the flip up seat which is attached through the trim. be careful and take your time here. While you have all the trim off, might as well clean everything behind there, the surface and carpet behind as well.
Measuring and patterns. I got lucky and was provided with patterns but they can easily be made with plastic sheet. I got a view of where the previous tow point was in reference to the gunnel, and marked it, and referenced that as close as I could with the new tower and came up with about 2 1/2" from the windshield trim. I also made sure the measurement was the same on each side and the same distance from the center point of the fuel fills. My boat had the Nautique step pads that needed to be removed with several Phillips screws each side. these are inset into the hull and are completely covered up with the new tower. There are 9 holes that need to be drilled on each side, which includes a 3/4" hole that I drilled for the wiring. Tape the patterns in place and mark them so you can tell if there is any movement, then remove the pattern. When you drill, start a pilot dimple, then run the drill in reverse most of the way. You can take a larger drill bit and chamfer the holes (use reverse) after your done to help prevent spiders. My rule is measure three times, check with the pattern again, drink a beer and breathe, then drill. Do not get in a hurry, mistakes can be very expensive to fix. I used one size smaller than 1/2" bit for the stud holes. The studs screw into the bottom of the feet with hex heads. I believe you can order studs from Roswell and I would recommend using new studs/nylock nuts.
I found a good thin tear proof rubber gasket material at a local shop and cut out what I needed. This is sticky back so I used a little rubbing alcohol to clean the surface then lined it up and applied.
Carefully line up the studs with the holes and slowly lower the hoist so you can gently (as gently as can be anyway) lower the feet into position. You'll need to guide the wires through the larger access hole you drilled first.
I made 3/16" aluminum backing plates for the permanent install (3" wide), but just lightly secured it for a test fit and wanted to give an idea of how much room there is. Again, an air angle ratchet makes this job way easier, just don't over tighten. I get it close with air, then the last few turns by hand. By the way, the original aluminum plate for the old feet appears permanently attached, and I was able to use that and drilled it for the for two studs on the new tower. With the aluminum plate, you can snug the bolts pretty tight.
test fit is good! I never realized the view was that much better without the front tower legs!
Labeling of wires, This tower had a lot of overspray on the wiring and thus I couldn't make out the labels. I used a 9 volt battery and simply touched pairs till I found what was what. Same with the nav and contest wires. This tower has the speakers with the down facing runway lights so a blue wire and common ground is needed. I also ran another wire off the courtesy and secured it behind the hull inset for later if I wanted to add anything. And, I just placed a simple switch in the starboard inset area so I could switch on/off the runway lights as desired. They are wired so that the dash switch turns them on with the other courtesy lights. Use marine heat shrink connectors and tinned wire when possible.
Need to modify the cover. The cover fit perfectly (got lucky) around the front of the base, but just needed a slight modification for the rear of the base. Local guy here in Orlando did a great job and only took him about an hour.
It came out great! no pic of the front as he just sewed in a cover underneath with extra strength to make the holes basically non existent. Also added reinforcement around the tower foot.
Job is done, enjoy a cold beverage! Overall I am very happy with the install. I spent several days over the course of a week or so, and it wasn't super easy, but it makes it look like a new boat! Lots of compliments already. The speakers look and sound great, and the bimini/cargo rack offers more coverage than my old one. The strapless racks work excellent. I will eventually upgrade my amp but for now I just hooked it up as it was before, 4 wires running from one amp channel to all four tower speakers and it sounds good. One pair are Roswell horns and the other are the focal speakers. This tower is very solid and substantial. The large mounting surface and 8 studs per side are more than enough to offer the strength needed for the task.
I have already sold the old bimini, speakers and rack, and just need to sell the old tower now.
Cheers and if you find yourself doing this project, I am happy to try and answer any questions.
Mike
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