so reading through the forums i see that the perfect pass problems with the screens. I also see that PP is likely to have me replace the entire system rather than provide a new LCD or replacement display. Im wondering if i could just buy another 5" PP screen for malibu or MC off ebay. is the wiring clip/ harness the same? anyone else had any luck with an economical alternative solution?
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Originally posted by daveybobcat View Postso reading through the forums i see that the perfect pass problems with the screens. I also see that PP is likely to have me replace the entire system rather than provide a new LCD or replacement display. Im wondering if i could just buy another 5" PP screen for malibu or MC off ebay. is the wiring clip/ harness the same? anyone else had any luck with an economical alternative solution?
Basically pop out your perfect pass get the bezel off of gently. Buy some silica packets, spray it with electrical sealant and then make it airtight with tuck tape.
If you get the thing good and dry air it out and seal it…. if nothings broke electronically it should continue to work fine.
My gauge has been working 100% for the last few weeks although it hasn’t sat out in a damp wet hot day yet lol.
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Originally posted by biacs View Post
Look for my quick post underneath in the DIY section.
Basically pop out your perfect pass get the bezel off of gently. Buy some silica packets, spray it with electrical sealant and then make it airtight with tuck tape.
If you get the thing good and dry air it out and seal it…. if nothings broke electronically it should continue to work fine.
My gauge has been working 100% for the last few weeks although it hasn’t sat out in a damp wet hot day yet lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sounds awesome!!. i tried and tried but couldnt get the silver frame off the glass display. how do i pull the thing apart?
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Originally posted by daveybobcat View Post
sounds awesome!!. i tried and tried but couldnt get the silver frame off the glass display. how do i pull the thing apart?
What do you have some room kind of stretched out and put a little pressure on it and pull the plastic out around the basil more and you should be able to basically get it to pop at that point.
Basically I’m saying be gentle take your time go by very small screwdriver if you don’t have one I just work it put a shim in there to keep the plastic crate back as your work around.
Hey second pair of hands may be very helpful to just sort of hold the wedge in their small screwdriver or whatever as he continued to pry along the edge. But very gently!
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LOL - I also have the 2006 220 SANTE and I'm working on the PP this weekend too. Mine is a button problem and not a display issue, but I've had the display issue. I have quite a fe PP displays that I've played with over the years and some have a pressed on chome bezel and others have one that can be pulled off (Interestingly enough, I used biacs same ides to pry it up a bit and then insert zipties into the gap - weird we both had the same obscure idea. I also used silica packets to suck up the moisture!). I noticed that on mine (wakeboard pro - multi line), the ribbon cable that connects the display and buttons to the logic board was very very corroded and I think that is my issue (I will know tomorrow). I sanded off the contact points and cleaned it all up and added some dielectric grease to keep good contact. I created a video I need to edit and post - stay tuned.
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Originally posted by jkallen21 View PostLOL - I also have the 2006 220 SANTE and I'm working on the PP this weekend too. Mine is a button problem and not a display issue, but I've had the display issue. I have quite a fe PP displays that I've played with over the years and some have a pressed on chome bezel and others have one that can be pulled off (Interestingly enough, I used biacs same ides to pry it up a bit and then insert zipties into the gap - weird we both had the same obscure idea. I also used silica packets to suck up the moisture!). I noticed that on mine (wakeboard pro - multi line), the ribbon cable that connects the display and buttons to the logic board was very very corroded and I think that is my issue (I will know tomorrow). I sanded off the contact points and cleaned it all up and added some dielectric grease to keep good contact. I created a video I need to edit and post - stay tuned.
i finally got that bezel off, but everytiing inside looks reall good. its been sitting in a dry garage for a year with no moisture issues here in the utah desert . what do you guys think? try tthe silica packets anyway? spray some dielectric spray everywhere? Seems like my problem may be a bit deeper.
has anyone ever tried to pull off the lcd screen with a solder iron and replace the screen? My perfect pass still works when we have it on the lake, just the display is bad : (
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The display issue is a common one - and it’s frustrating. The first thing I would try is to re-touch every wire that connects to the display board with the iron. I haven’t removed the LCD but you have little to lose in trying. I called perfect pass this week about the button issue and Aaron was extremely knowledgeable and willing to help even though this unit is about 15 years old. He knew the wiring and he knew how they failed. He might be able to tell you what causes the display issues and if it’s fixable. I’d also look for anything on the display that might identify a manufacturer that you could hunt for online. Lastly, start asking on these forums for people to send you their old ones that were replaced for other reason - like button issues
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I called PP today to ask them some additional questions (I have a few of these displays in various states of repair) and I asked them your specific question about using MC or Malibu. He said as long as the physical circumference display is the same, you should not have an issue swapping between "brands" (he even speculated that the wakeboard pro display would work on the guts of the older multi-line unit as well). However, this doesn't look to be plug an play. Take a look at these pics - one is from a MC forum and the other is my PP in the Nautique. The physical display on the MC is a single-line so consider that they could be very different than my multiline an it could be easier than this). As you can see, the wiring is the same (same number, same colors, same order - zoom in really close on the MC and you'll see the brown wire is there). But, from what I can tell, you would have to solder your wires on the MC display to get this to work. I can't say this would give me no anxiety plugging it in the first time either...I'd try to find a broken Nautique one myself. Or maybe try it on your friend's boat
FWIW - I also asked if I could power the display on a 12V battery to test (outside the boat - which I thought I could do based a previous conversation with them) but he said that was not possible
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I also finished the video on how I fixed my button issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVlFPFGv4Uw
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LOL - Some people are never happy
I mentioned silica packets in the description. I haven't sealed the units myself - I saw you mentioned that above but thought you might have a patent on that process!
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