Sante 230 hard tank leak

[doug69]

Hi, I have a 2016 230 with a bow bag connect to the belly tank. The belly tank was replaced due to a crack a few years ago and this summer the new tank also cracked and started leaking. Have any other owners had this issue multiple times or even once? Are the tanks just garbage? Is there a better solution such as replacing the hard tank with bag? I really don’t want to have to replace this tank any more.

Thanks.


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[charlesml3]

Yea, I had this problem on my 2017 SANTE 230. It's a little hard to describe but at the front-top of the tank it "ramps" a bit. Mine cracked right at this ramp area. Is that where yours cracked as well?

[doug69]

Thanks for the response. It’s hard to tell but that is likely where it’s leaking. I can see the leak looking under the bow cushion. What did you do other than replace tank? Will a bag fit in there? Guessing replacing the tank regularly is gonna be pricey and a PITA.

Thanks.


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[charlesml3]

Take the front cushions out and get everything out of there. In the back is a panel held down by a single screw. Take that screw out and then the panel. From there, you can get a view of the front of the belly ballast tank. It's through a hole in the floor, but you can see it. Put the boat in the water and fill the belly tank to overflow. You should be able to see where it's cracked from there. Let me know what you find.

-Charles

[doug69]

Yeah. I can see the leak on the port side of the tank by the access under the seat. Very tight in there but appears to be exactly where you indicated it would be. Assuming any repair would likely not hold for long due to tank pressure. Were you able to resolve without having to pull fuel tank and replace?


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[charlesml3]

It is repairable where it sits. It isn't exactly easy but I've done it. Here are the steps:

1. Use masking tape or something to cover the edges of the access hole. It's just unfinished fiberglass and it'll chew your wrists up if you don't cover the edges.
2. CLEAN the entire length of the crack and several inches either side. Start with Windex and clean it thoroughly. When that's done, go over it again with rubbing alcohol. It needs to be absolutely clean of grease, oil, water, dirt, etc.
3. Cut a piece of Flex Tape (yes, you heard that right. The silly stuff "As Seen on TV") long enough to cover the entire crack and an inch or so on either side.
4. This is the tricky part. The tape has a backing on it. Fold down the top 1/2" of the backing but don't remove the entire strip. All you want is a tacky part that'll stick while you position it.
5. Position the tape so the crack sits more-or-less in the middle of it. Make SURE it's in the right place.
6. Reach behind the tape and pull the backing down some more. As you pull it down, press the tape down HARD against the tank.
7. Pull the backing down a bit more. As you reach the "ramp" make sure there isn't a gap between the tape and the tank. Push it into the ramp as you go.
8. Finish pulling the backing out and press the tape down.
9. Go over the entire tape layer again, pushing it down as hard as you can.
10. Leave it for 24 hours. This lets the tape really bond to the tank.

That's about it. I know it sounds ridiculous, but Flex Tape REALLY sticks to whatever that plastic is. I ran my 2017 230 with this "fix" for years and it never leaked again. The people that bought the boat from me never replaced the tank. It's still that way.

-Charles

[doug69]

Thanks again for the quick reply. Your knowledge or the 230 has been helpful offer the years. I will give this a shot. I was not able to see the screw and panel you were referring to. Can you be more specific as to where it is. Right now I’m only looking through the small space where the ballast runs up to the bow bag.


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[charlesml3]

They're in the front seat storage compartments. Not the one in the very front of the bow. The ones on either side up front. Look in there and you'll see the black tabs and screws. Take the screw out and then the panel. One on each side.

[Mark 210]

I have have the same problem - just adding to this post as it helped me find the problem. I have tried to Flextape it but the angle surface Pop's out when the tank is full and the flextape then struggles to seal the now round bubble. looks like I will need to pull the tank out. Video shows the leak and the bubble.

[charlesml3]

That's exactly what my 2017 SANTE 230 would do. The tank would bow out at that "ramp" and eventually it cracked and started leaking. The flex-tape worked for me. I had one continuous piece that went across the entire area. The tank continued to flex, but the tape would flex with it.

If that doesn't work, the only solution is to replace the tank itself.

-Charles

[doug69]

Decided to cut open hard tank and insert bag into the tank. Lost confidence in hard tank so figure the shell will work to contain the bag and be more reliable and less work.


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[SADELO]

That's the move Doug...curious, what size bag did you go with?

[sfjakey]

Decided to cut open hard tank and insert bag into the tank. Lost confidence in hard tank so figure the shell will work to contain the bag and be more reliable and less work.


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where did you access the tank to cut it open, and what bag did you use? Who ever was able to get their arm in the tiny openings to fix the split must be a very small contortionist. I can’t even get my hand in one of those holes.

[Don D.]

I am in the process of this fix for my 2015 SAN 230. Crack is in the exact place that Charles described. I will report back, but yesterday I filled the crack with a JB Weld two part plastic epoxy. I plan on putting flex tape over the epoxy repair just to be safe. I have been dealing with this leak for years and did not realize where it was coming from until recently. The crack has been allowing water into my hull and also squirts up through the crack in the tank, through the small access hole and has been getting my battery/trash can/amplifier area wet. I am hopeful that this resolves the issue without having to remove the tank! Thanks to Chuck for the thorough repair post!

[sfjakey]

I will follow up on this. I did not find it possible to get my hands into the hole to put any sort of flex seal tape or other product on the crack. I decided to order a new tank and tackle the replacement.I figured it would be a big pain, but it was quite simple. Remove the floor, disconnect all lines from the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fill hose from the front of the ballast tank, unbolt and pull the tank. I put flex seal tape on the “ramp” area of the new tank hoping it will be a preventative measure against cracking again. I also don’t plan to fill the belly tank past 7/8 full to try and stop cracking. Bottom line, it’s easy to replace the tank, don’t bother with the other methods.