2004 206 - horn not working, odd one - need suggestions!

[SilentSeven]

The horn on my 206 is not working and I need some help identifying the problem. Here's what's occurring.

- Press the dash horn switch, you can hear the relay click in the PCM model.
- PMC module circuit breaker is not popped
- When I check for 12v on the horn wires power/ground wire feed (testing at plug connectors before the horn with the horn disconnected) - no 12v registers

This horn used to work but there's been some monkey business in the area that occurred during the PO's tenure. By monkey business, I mean the following.

- The factory horn is mounted in the air plenum under the dash.
- The horn is likely installed at the factory before the top deck is mounted as there's no apparent way to access the horn in the plenum.
- Someone cut a ~ 2.5" circular hole in the bottom of the plenum at one point for unknown reasons
- When doing stereo work under the dash, I found a 3rd party horn was bottom mounted to the plenum and the factory horn wiring was cut
- When I found this, I removed the 3rd party horn, reconnected the factory horn wiring the factory horn worked (for a while)
- It's unclear why there was a hole cut in the plenum...the hole is too small to remove the factory horn (it's a twin horn setup connected by bracket).

Maybe the factory horn is indeed be flaky...which could explain why there was a 3rd party horn installed at some point (The 3rd party horn was awful btw, very quiet due to location with a terrible tone). What I can't explain is the power situation - I would expect to see 12v on the wires when I run the switch. Especially since I hear the PCM module clicking.

Feels like solving the power question is the first step. Any suggestions? Just want that nice factory horn to work again. :/

[Skidave]

Does the factory horn work if you apply 12V via some sort of jumper wire directly from the battery. Both GND and 12V jumped? Did you ohm the GND wire to the horn and to the negative battery post to make sure the GND is intact?

Last thing would be to trace the horn wire back to the breaker panel and ohm it or measure for 12V right where it exits the breaker panel. From there, maybe something with the breaker.

I have a 03 206, and I know what you mean about the horn mounting. I never noticed hearing a relay, but that is because the horn works. My horn is loud, but distorted from the odd mounting location.

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[SilentSeven]

Does the factory horn work if you apply 12V via some sort of jumper wire directly from the battery. Both GND and 12V jumped? Did you ohm the GND wire to the horn and to the negative battery post to make sure the GND is intact?

No...very reasonable suggestions except I didn't have the necessary jumpers while I was in there. Likely next steps....I just have to get up the courage to pull it all apart again as there's 10,000 things in way. 3 outlet heater box, prefect pass wiring, speaker wiring, PCM wiring...you know the drill.

Last thing would be to trace the horn wire back to the breaker panel and ohm it or measure for 12V right where it exits the breaker panel. From there, maybe something with the breaker.

No simple way to do that. The wiring leaving the PCM is a big, sealed wiring bundle which makes it more or less impossible to pick out the horn wire. Or at least do it in a way that doesn't put everything else at risk.

I have a 03 206, and I know what you mean about the horn mounting. I never noticed hearing a relay, but that is because the horn works. My horn is loud, but distorted from the odd mounting location.

Mine actually sounded decent when it works.

Thanks for the suggestions. All good ones!

[mpost]

Just got my horn fixed this year. Definetly test with a battery and bypass switch and wiring. I did not do that until my horn was out and my arm was bleeding from getting it out.
Turned out I had voltage on the wire but when th ehorn was hooked up it went away. It was the switch that was the problem. Took it apart (Carling switches are pretty easy to take apart) and it was full of dust and grime, and maybe soda from a spill on teh dash? Was able to clean up the contacts and it is working fine now.
Gunk allowed enogh contact for no load voltage but no current with a load.
Good luck.

[SilentSeven]

Thanks for sharing; glad yours is working now. Sadly, the switch/relay system on my boat is not as simple as your year. The horn switch on my year is integrated into the keypad and triggers a relay in the PCM (Power Control Model). I can hear the PCM relay clicking but it's unclear why I don't appear to be getting any voltage on the wire.

Need a good tutorial on how the PCM works I think.

[COwake]

SilentSeven did you ever get your horn issue resolved? I am now experiencing a similar issue on my 2005 Nautique 226. I jumped the gun and replaced the horn and that didn’t resolve the issue. I then tested the old horn by connecting to my truck with jumpers and it works fine. I disconnected the horn and checked for voltage on the wires and get 12 Volts. But when the horn is connected I just hear the delay in the fuse panel clicking. The sticker on the fuse panel say there are now user serviceable parts inside so I have not tried to open it up yet to check the relay. Hoping someone here can help lever this resolved, I don’t have a dealer or service shop within several hours from me so this forum has been really helpful in the past.

[SilentSeven]

Hey...no...but I really haven't spent any time on it this season. Might poke at it again later this summer and will post an update with any outcomes....

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[COwake]

Turns out I just had a bad horn out of the box. Like you said I could hear the relay clicking and had voltage at the leads. Replaced with a horn from Nautique Parts and it works as it should now.

[SilentSeven]

Just saw this response.... COwake - how did you remove the old horn? My recollection is that it looks like the horn was installed in the airbox from above before they sandwiched the hulls halves at the factory. I didn't see a way to remove it from under the dash....

Thanks!

[Speedy]

Although this may not help you, because I have a 99 sport, I thought I’d mention how I was able to replace mine.
I first remove the circle access cover epoxied to the box under the dash to uncover the horns.
Then I had to fit both my hands in that little tiny hole and separate them and fish them out of that hole.
I then replaced the cover with stainless steel screws and silicone.


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[SilentSeven]

Speedy - thanks. I suspect to replace my horn I'd have to enlarge the existing hole. Interesting to know yours appeared to have a factory hole and cover. On mine, there's a small existing hole (too small for the horn) and a hack patch job - no way it's factory. Did your boat have the single or the dual horn?

[Speedy]

SilentSeven, I also had dual horns and a small opening but with a cover. I had to lay on my back with safety glasses on and fit one hand through the opening to separate them. By the way, the cover was nothing special. In fact, it looked like a bad patch job.
I had to separate the horns and wiggle one at a time through the opening because I did not have anything to enlarge the hole with - plus, it would have been a fiberglass mess.
See on the picture below, the black square is the cover

[SilentSeven]

OMG! That's what mine looks like....that's factory?? Can't believe it. I can't imagine being the factory horn installer...what a miserable job.

My hands are too big to get in the hole. I think you've given me the courage to do some careful hole expansion and fabricate a new patch. Before this picture I didn't want to make a bad problem worse but now it's clear anything I do will just be an upgrade.

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[SilentSeven]

Also - is this the horn you ordered?

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/horn-dual/

[COwake]

No that is not the horn that I ordered. I ordered this one for my 226. horn, general purpose | Nautique Parts . Mine was easy to access, just flipped up the observer seat and laid on my back. The horn was fully exposed by the grate. 2 Screws and 2 Wires. I would take a pic, but I sold the boat.