330 Excalibur wont rev past 650RPM

[SN206AUS]

Hi Guys

Just purchased a second hand 2006 206 Ski Nautique, running a 330 Excalibur, and I having my first electrical issue. It is pretty hard to get into a dealer over here I am hoping to fix the issue myself.
The boat ran fine but then wouldn't rev past 650rpm which I don't think is limp mode as others state they rev to 2000rpm when in limp mode. The check engine light doesn't illuminate and I can get it typically fails within a few minutes of running all gauges read good. I haven't changed the fuel from when it was running good, there is still half a tank there. I can see the TCP moving to full extents when I move the throttle lever.

I was going to install a new water temp and oil pressure switch but as there is no check light and it doesn't seem like the normal limp mode these faulty sensors would cause (other posts say they can do 2000rpm in SLOW limp mode). I am thinking that something is up with the TAC or TCP I have been reading through the DTC supplement but not sure where to start. I did pull all of the connectors off and clean them it did run well on the trailer for a few minutes then failed again, that may not be related as it does come good after I leave the battery disconnected for 30mins which I also did when I was checking connectors.

Any suggestions on where to start without the scanning software, I am pretty handy with a multimeter and test light.

[biacs]

Sounds like you're on the right track! My 06-330 with every once in a while kick into limp mode as well. But a restart will bring it back online and run normally.

There is also the consideration of a v-drive fluid level error, As well as that engine temp sensor. So I did some terminal cleaning as well as replace my temp sensor and I still had it happen again. So I think it would be the throttle control voltage.

I assume you have a fairly fresh and steady battery(terminals are snug and don't have play)? In the meantime I just bought the service plug to read codes. It wasn't too much money and I'll let you know how it works for me. We're just getting started with spring here in the US!

I also just swapped out the perfect pass to the newer version with stargazer GPS. So that changes the electronics (gateway box)slightly as well.

I'll let you know how the (Rinda) code reader looks when I get back this week.

** and bonus points to MNRyan. He mentioned that as these boats age, simply replacing the main run for the battery cables, is often necessary. It can get corrosion within and just have intermittent connectivity issues. He restores older correct crafts and often times you just need to swap the copper out have a good steady voltage.

[MN Ryan]

biacs Thanks, but it wasn't me.

[SN206AUS]

biacs thanks for the reply. I actually installed a new battery last week when I took ownership of the boat the old one was slow to crank, I cleaned up all of the connectors and they are nice and snug.

I went through the throttle control diagnostics manual tonight and tried to probe a few things. The only thing that really stands out is the voltage readings that are coming from the throttle position sensor in the throttle body. The manual states that one should read from high to low and the other the opposite whilst mine both read the same, I would have thought this would have shown a fault code on the dash and failed straight away. Throttle body assemblies are not easy to come by in Australia and not cheap not a cheap gamble.

Readings at various points were:

TCP (Throttle Control Position)
Circuit1
@ 0% throttle = 0.836v should be below 1volt
@100% throttle = 4.10v should be above 2volt

Circuit2
@ 0% throttle = 3.6v should be above 4volt
@ 100% throttle = 0.827v should be below 2.9volt

These don't seem to be out by much, and I suspect not the cause

Throttle body
Throttle position sensor 1
0% = 0.994v should be below 1volt
100% = 3.55v should be above 3.5 volt

Throttle position sensor 2
0% 0.97v should be 3.8volt
100% 3.62v should be below 1volt
This one seems odd they are meant to reading opposite to each other, sensor 2 is in range but around the wrong way, I double checked it and got the same figure.


Motor voltage at 100%
Cycles between 2.3 and 1.7volt but drops to 0 when boat defaults to issue. I did notice the throttle plate start to wiggle slightly back and forth just before it faulted.

I also checked the supply voltage at the TAC as the manual states if it looses ground or ignition it would default to idle speed, but it was showing 12.4volts before and after the fault showed. It may have dropped out for a split second but only using a multimeter with no recording I can not capture that, also not sure if it faults if it looses it for a split second.

I also did all of this testing with the ignition on but the boat not running so I can rule out bad fuel.

[SN206AUS]

Just in case anyone has the same issue, I have since resolved it. It ended up being the throttle body I suspect that the internal motor was the issue not the TPS circuits as the motor was pretty corroded and jammed inside of the housing when it should be able to be easily to removed. I don't know how the logic works in the TCU I suspect the motor was pulling too much current or not driving to throttle to correct position so the TCU shut it down.

I refused to pay $650 for a Nautique genuine replacement, it looked identical to this ACdelco unit on Summit for $140 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-12679526
Received the unit it bolted straight up and works perfectly, they did have cheaper options on Summit but I stuck with the name brand.

[Spud]

Nice work through of the issue. And nice work on finding a cheaper and effective replacement part!
finally thanks for taking the time to come back and tell everyone how the issue was resolved it will make someone’s trouble shooting much easier in the future!

[bturner]

Always good to see someone respond with the fix. As tempting as it is to just move on after a difficult or challenging issue I've started making it a practice to always do follow up for others. Thank you for your follow up and contribution to the board.

[SkiLakeCav]

SN206AUS - curious, have you experienced this issue again since replacing the throttle body?

My 2006 boat with a 330 excalibur has had this same issue for several years now. I replaced the throttle body in April and replaced the throttle control position sensor (potentiometer) in June, which was another suggestion for what sounded like the same issue on another thread. Neither fully resolved the problem.

This seems to be a common issue for the 2006 excalibur 330 motors (across all boat brand using these PCM motors) and I haven't found a definitive solution.

[BP22]

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I am having the same issue. A couple of years ago it would happen intermittently. I would shut off the motor and restart and it would go away. Now it is happening every time. I just replaced the potentiometer and it did not resolve the problem. I also installed new batteries, thermostat, spark plugs, impellor, belt, and fluids. No check engine light.

2006 SAN with the 330 Excalibur with 400 hours. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[SN206AUS]

SN206AUS - curious, have you experienced this issue again since replacing the throttle body?

My 2006 boat with a 330 excalibur has had this same issue for several years now. I replaced the throttle body in April and replaced the throttle control position sensor (potentiometer) in June, which was another suggestion for what sounded like the same issue on another thread. Neither fully resolved the problem.

This seems to be a common issue for the 2006 excalibur 330 motors (across all boat brand using these PCM motors) and I haven't found a definitive solution.

Hi, I haven't had the issue since replacing the throttle body but only ran it a few times due to it now being winter over here plus have the engine out cleaning it up.
I am confident it was the throttle body as I had the two sitting there on the motor and would switch between the two and the old one always failed when I switched back to it. Your point does raise the concern about how long it would last.
I did pull the old one apart and the position sensing part of the unit looked clean and good but the actual motor appeared to have been attacked by salty water it was pretty corroded up, maybe these parts aren't too well sealed up.

When mine was intermittently failing I could see the throttle blade starting to twitch when holding it at a settle throttle position before it slammed shut.

[SN206AUS]

I am having the same issue. A couple of years ago it would happen intermittently. I would shut off the motor and restart and it would go away. Now it is happening every time. I just replaced the potentiometer and it did not resolve the problem. I also installed new batteries, thermostat, spark plugs, impellor, belt, and fluids. No check engine light.

2006 SAN with the 330 Excalibur with 400 hours. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Brandon - this sounds identical to mine, I think it is worth putting a new throttle body on it, follow the link to summit part in my earlier post. Cheap part compared to some of the other work that you have done.

[BP22]

Quote removed by Admin for not following the Guidelines for Quoting Previous Posts in a Thread.

SN206AUS - appreciate it thank you. I will give it a try. Do I need a gasket also?

[SN206AUS]

I did grab a new one but the throttle body came off without damaging it. If ordering the throttle from Summit probably worth grabbing a gasket.

[BP22]

Quote removed by Admin for not following the Guidelines for Quoting Previous Posts in a Thread.

I ended up getting one, Summit was very helpful. New throttle body will be here tomorrow, hopefully this resolves this problem. Thank you again.

[SkiLakeCav]

Thanks for the updates. I seemed to have resolved the issue on my boat. Even after replacing the throttle body and TCP, I kept experiencing the same problem. However, I recently replaced the TCP to TAC Jumper wiring harness (PCM Part # R121086) and have not had the issue since.

I went down this route since the issue was temporarily fixed whenever I would unplug and replug the ends of this wiring harness. Simply turning off and turning back on the engine was working less and less. When I plugged in the ends of the new harness into the TCP and TAC, the connections felt significantly more snug, almost to suggest there was a loose/poor connection on the older wiring harness.

The part was approx $60 and took seconds to replace. It ultimately could have been the combination of the new throttle body, TCP, and this new wiring harness. However, this new harness was apparently the missing piece. Definitely a simple and relatively cheap solution that I'd recommend crossing off the list before moving on to more expensive components.

Now just hoping it continues to hold up.