Rudder Repacking

[Tim N]

I own a 1991 Nautique Excel closed bow with 5.8L PCM motor. I need the procedure to access the rudder housing (visible) as it is under the Invertaflo muffler. The rudder housing box is leaking with much play in the rudder. The steering turns freely at idle but hard turn to the right when underway.

Any advice, diagram, service manual, video or comments are welcome.

Tim

[Tim N]

Here is the invertaflo muffler I need to remove to access the rudder housing unless there is a better way to access. Any help is appreciated.

[bturner]

I have not worked on these boats so I can't offer any advice on the R&R specifically. Unless you see clear access IMO it's better to bite the bullet and remove the muffler than fight it for hours only to realize the removal is necessary after hours and several scrapped knuckles later. In general those exhaust hoses can be a bear to work with. I've used a heat gun, soapy water and silicone spray with some success where the hose attachés to the risers but expect a fight.

As to the rudder port.... depending on how well maintained (greased) the port was and how much slop you have in the port, there is a good chance the port itself is toast. Many of these ports use a brass bushing that the rudder shaft slides into. The packing works like packing on the prop shaft to mostly seal the top of the port. By the time you start to feel movement in the port the brass bushing typically has worn and will need replacement. Depending on the manufacture you may be able to get the port rebuilt. I know OJ offers this service for their parts, don't know about anyone else.

As to the steering..... it's been my experience that tight steering 9 times out of 10 is the steering cable. If I had this apart this far I would replace the cable on principle alone. Since you're having issues I personally would replace the cable. Boating season is short. Do it once and do it right. But that's me when it comes to repairs like this.

[Tim N]

As a follow up, I was able to access the rudder housing from the port side by removing the engine panel and reaching over the muffler and under the muffler. It was not as bad as I thought. Removed the rudder, applied marine grease, removed old gland packing (5 pieces??) and installed 4 new pieces. I still have a slow drip leak so I am not sure what the repair is at this point unless I can tighten the gland nut or just use three pieces of packing. In any event the steering is much better and the water is not pouring in as before. Not having to remove the muffler was a huge success. It would have been a tough job.

Tim

[Jonny Quest]

Tighten the gland nut. The rudder is not like a driveshaft that needs a constant drip for cooling.

JQ