Okay, fixed. Huge thank you to jmo for his write up on ball of spray and his offer to even get on the phone to help if I ran into trouble.
So, if changing the oil is a 3 on the difficulty scale I would rate changing out the Throttle Base Assembly at a 3.5.
Maybe an hour to disassemble and 40 minutes to button things up. Hardest part as always is access. I considered removing the seat but just sucked it up and became a contortionist.
1. Remove the two cup holders. This is not necessary but it does allow for a visual inspection and for orientation.
2. You need to remove the upholstery trim that runs around the metal plate that the throttle sticks through. This is the hardest part of the job. This upholstered trim piece is held on with push in connectors. These are the same kind of connectors that are used in the auto industry to put door panels on. If you have a plastic door panel tool this would help. I didn't so I gave a gentle tug and they popped out.
3. Remove the "N" plug in the throttle and use an allen wrench to remove the throttle.
4. At the bottom of the metal trim piece there are two bolts that hold the panel to the floor. Remove them. Then remove the 8 screws that hold the metal trim piece to the fiberglass. You may want to replace these when you reassemble, mine we pretty beat up when I went to take them out. Looks like someone got carried away with the impact driver.
There are two plugs coming out of the Throttle Base Assembly that must be unplugged. It is not necessary to label them as they the connectors are unique and only go back one way.
5. You may want to undo the plugs for the neutral button under the throttle and the lanyard safety switch for easier access.
6. Throttle Base Assembly is held into the fiberglass with three bolts with locking nuts (10mm) and one sheet rock screw. Yeah, one sheet rock screw.
7. Swap out assemblies and put it back together.
Trickiest part is getting the upholstery piece back in place. Make sure the fastens are straight and not bent. Align them with the holes and give each area a good pop with the palm of you hand.
8. Test everything in a safe environment and make sure the safety lanyard is functioning.
8.GO SKIING
I will try and post up some photos in the next couple of days. I am going to investigate sending my defective assembly back to Livorsi for repair. It wouldn't hurt to have one on the shelf just in case.
My dealer has still not returned my call from Monday.
So, if changing the oil is a 3 on the difficulty scale I would rate changing out the Throttle Base Assembly at a 3.5.
Maybe an hour to disassemble and 40 minutes to button things up. Hardest part as always is access. I considered removing the seat but just sucked it up and became a contortionist.
1. Remove the two cup holders. This is not necessary but it does allow for a visual inspection and for orientation.
2. You need to remove the upholstery trim that runs around the metal plate that the throttle sticks through. This is the hardest part of the job. This upholstered trim piece is held on with push in connectors. These are the same kind of connectors that are used in the auto industry to put door panels on. If you have a plastic door panel tool this would help. I didn't so I gave a gentle tug and they popped out.
3. Remove the "N" plug in the throttle and use an allen wrench to remove the throttle.
4. At the bottom of the metal trim piece there are two bolts that hold the panel to the floor. Remove them. Then remove the 8 screws that hold the metal trim piece to the fiberglass. You may want to replace these when you reassemble, mine we pretty beat up when I went to take them out. Looks like someone got carried away with the impact driver.
There are two plugs coming out of the Throttle Base Assembly that must be unplugged. It is not necessary to label them as they the connectors are unique and only go back one way.
5. You may want to undo the plugs for the neutral button under the throttle and the lanyard safety switch for easier access.
6. Throttle Base Assembly is held into the fiberglass with three bolts with locking nuts (10mm) and one sheet rock screw. Yeah, one sheet rock screw.
7. Swap out assemblies and put it back together.
Trickiest part is getting the upholstery piece back in place. Make sure the fastens are straight and not bent. Align them with the holes and give each area a good pop with the palm of you hand.
8. Test everything in a safe environment and make sure the safety lanyard is functioning.
8.GO SKIING
I will try and post up some photos in the next couple of days. I am going to investigate sending my defective assembly back to Livorsi for repair. It wouldn't hurt to have one on the shelf just in case.
My dealer has still not returned my call from Monday.
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