Dead Battery '19 GS22

[kylant]

2019 GS22 with 150 hours on it

At the lake today, battery 2 went dead shortly after turning the boat on. I left the switch on 1 just a few days ago so the bilge would have power. I usually use battery #1, but figured I would use 2 this last time. Battery 1 seems fine.
We just put the boat in the water recently. The dealer said they fully charged both batteries with summerizeation. I also hooked the on-board charger to shore power over night before we took the boat to the lake. The charger said the batteries were full. I used the charger with the battery switch in the OFF position. Is this correct? I am pretty sure I read here that it was.
We used the boat for the day on battery #1, but battery 2 never took a charge. I was under the impression that both batteries would charge from the alternator regardless of what position the switch was in. Is this wrong?
So it is very odd, that battery discharged in just a couple of days. I have left the boat on switch 1 for weeks at a time with never an issue.

My main questions are:

-When using the on-board charger connected to shore power, what switch position is correct?
-Regardless of switch position, do both batteries take a charge when the boat is running?
-Why would a battery discharge so quickly if it was supposedly full? (never an issue before)

thanks in advance

[SatherG230]

I don't have the same setup as you, but will do my best best based on my experience...
.
"When using the on-board charger connected to shore power, what switch position is correct?"
I always charge mine with the switch "OFF", although it shouldn't matter if it is on "1" or "2". I would not charge them on "1 + 2", but that may not make a difference either.

"Regardless of switch position, do both batteries take a charge when the boat is running?"
I am not sure what they did on yours, but mine came with the "1", "2" or "1+2" Blue Seas switch. Both batteries will only charge when it is on "1+2". That switch is designed to switch between 1 and 1+2 or 2 and 1+2 while the boat is on and /or running (obviously, avoid the "OFF" position) in order to use both batteries to start and cruise and switch to one battery when hanging out listening to tunes. Remembering to switch it back and forth is the main problem with this, so I usually ran it on one or the other (alternating each time out as best as I could remember) and still having the other (fingers crossed) as a spare.

When my switch failed last year, I added a Blue Seas Add-a-Battery kit which included a new 1,2, 1+2 switch and an ACR (automatic charging relay: https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A) that would allow the engine to charge the battery that was being used and then automatically combine both batteries when the first reached a full charge. I also installed a small LED that illuminates when they are combined, so I can see that it is working and they are topped-off. The ACR was a great addition that I would highly recommend if you don't already have one!

"Why would a battery discharge so quickly if it was supposedly full? (never an issue before)"
Not sure what to tell you here - if an older battery, maybe it is no longer to hold a charge. If that is not the case, SOMETHING is drawing current while it sits...

Hope this helps!

[MN Ryan]

If it's a '19 battery, it is certainly possible that it's shot. You'd like to see them last longer than a few years, but sometimes, you get one that doesn't. You could take it in to an automotive store and have them load test it. Alternatively, you can buy a cheap load tester and do it yourself--I bought one from Harbor Freight for $20, and it does the trick.

[bturner]

I've had batteries show full and be dead due to a bad cell in the battery. These are typically the batteries that will show 12 volts and not turn over the engine as they won't provide the current necessary.

Based on what you're describing I would go with dead cell which as Ryan states should be able to be seen with a load test.

As a side note I've seen AGM batteries exhibit this type if symptom from not being properly charged. I've gotten a few "dead" AGMs over the years and have brought them back to life using this hack.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Slqd73ZOQvI

Loved seeing one of them at the Auto Parts store and making a trade for a dead lead acid. Harder to do now a days since the local mom and pop shop turned into an O'Riely's.

[Scooter G]

Great video/battery share bturner. I would of never thought of the jumper cable hack.

[bturner]

If you ever see a blue, red or yellow top being throw it's worth a shot. 10 years ago it was near a dead bang brining them back to life. Haven't done one in years so I really couldn't so these days.

[kylant]

thanks all.
what I have concluded is that my switch only allows charging to the battery that it is switched to.
charging from the shore, the switch should be in the off position.
i feel my 2 battery is shot. which battery is which? lol.
I am headed to the lake to see if it held a charge. if not, i will pick up a couple of new ones.
any thoughts on new batteries? I don't think I want AGM because I don't know if the charging system in the boat is correct to charge them?
i can get interstate or napa locally. the interstates are not sealed. not a fan of unsealed batteries in a boat.
the napa ones are actually the exact same deka batteries, just with napa labeling.

that relay looks interesting. how was the install?

[kylant]

was at the lake yesterday and started the boat on battery 2.
prior to starting, it was showing 11.6 volts. while starting, it dropped to 9.6 which seems to be normal.
so it seems like it is holding a charge
i am still perplexed as to why it was fully discharged shortly after being on the shore charger, which seemed to fully charge it ??

[bturner]

At rest a fully charged battery in good shape should read 12.4 - 12.6 volts. At 11.6 IMO you are not out of the woods on this. If it were mine I would be looking for another battery or at least be prepared for some additional issues.

[zigs]

My AGM batteries in my 2018 G21 we're dead this spring. Would have thought they should have lasted longer, but I didn't get the boat new, and got it last January so maybe the previous owner didn't stay up on periodic charges during the off-season, or let them stay drained for a prolonged period of time and damaged them to some degree, worked fine for me last year, but couldn't stay charged more than a weekend this spring, replaced with a pair of Duracell AGM's. Either way for the cost of those batteries I hope this set lasts longer.

[kylant]

My AGM batteries in my 2018 G21 we're dead this spring. Would have thought they should have lasted longer, but I didn't get the boat new, and got it last January so maybe the previous owner didn't stay up on periodic charges during the off-season, or let them stay drained for a prolonged period of time and damaged them to some degree, worked fine for me last year, but couldn't stay charged more than a weekend this spring, replaced with a pair of Duracell AGM's. Either way for the cost of those batteries I hope this set lasts longer.

were/are yours starting or deep cycle?

if deep cycle, any issues with starting?

[kylant]

well, the boat definitely needs new batteries.
we were out today, battery 2 seemed fine for a bit. but it started dropping voltage really quickly while just drifting and the music on. it dropped to 8 volts when trying to crank the engine. obvious dead.

questions are: what to replace them with? group 24 starting (like OEM) or group 34 AGM, starting or deep cycle? what about dual purpose?

I need to get these tomorrow.

thanks for the suggestions

[bturner]

Battery recommendations are a hornets nest topic on any forum. There is no one right answer for everyone and it depends on your goal. If the goal is to get the boat back on the water as fast and cheap the quickest and easiest is to by a pair of Interstate lead acid batteries. Match the size to your current batteries and that's it. You can't buy a cheaper solution.

I have Optima Blue Tops that have served me well since 2012 and it seems to still be doing fine this season. It seems those that don't like AGM and even some that like AGMs, hate these for whatever reason. I honestly don't care either way. I don't sell them, I don't get a kickback on them and if you know of some better battery by all means go ahead and buy it. All this said if you go with AGM you actually will need to take care of your batteries. I bought an Optima charger (which I've heard people bitch about as well) for mine when I bought them and it's the only charger I use on them. You can't use Grandpa's charger from the 70s, if you do chances are you'll make garbage out of them in one or two seasons. I also pull and store my batteries inside in the winter and charge them once a month. Do you need to? IDK but this is what I do and I have a 10 YO battery that still works great.

As far as onboard chargers go, I don't use them, never have. I've heard mixed things about them, some good, some really bad. If you plan to use one you better make real sure they're made to work with AGM batteries and make any required settings changes before using it.

In the end you'll have to figure out what's important to you. If the last thing you want to do is spend considerable money on batteries stop thinking about AGM now and buy the near throw away lead acid batteries that have served generations well for years.

[MN Ryan]

bturner is spot on, yet again. I personally have a blue top Optima and a lead acid Interstate in my boat simply becaust those are what came in it when I bought it. When the time comes, I will likely just replace with lead acid as I find the upfront price on AGMs unappealing.

[kylant]

i put an optima blue top in my 2000. IIRC that was the only battery I put in the boat in the 20 years of owning it. It was great. I have heard/read the reliability of the Optimas is garbage now, they do not last.

all good advise, I am going to see what is available today.