LINC and POLK displays dead after batt switch failure

[schaNYC]

Need some guidance from the electronics gurus here for my 2014 SAN 230.

Picked up a used boat, all ran fine for first couple of days. Played around with user settings, ballast fills, cruise control, etc. While cruising the lake day 3, my LINC screen suddenly goes black, motor running fine without a skip. Had trouble cranking to start after taking a break. On a couple of occasions back to the dock, all power shutoff without warning and had to refire the motor.

Google search led me to check the battery switch and it was clearly a failed switch where the plastic backing with battery terminals detached from the front plate. Replaced switch and crank starts without hesitation but still unable to get the “booting…” msg on the Linc. I’ve tried every troubleshooting method found in the internet it seems, like turning power off completely, waiting a few minutes after first hitting Start before hitting Start to crank the motor, holding down the stop button for a few seconds per the manual.

At this point, I am running the boat for weeks without a screen as I can’t get my local dealer to even give me a call back as they have been so jammed. I replaced both batteries to make sure as well. Could the abrupt loss of power due to the failed switch cause something to short? How can I check? Could the alternator have gone bad due to the abrupt power loss? My Polk display inside the glovebox is also dead. I have power in my USB ports however. None of my red fuse buttons look raised as I have tried to push all things resembling a button.

Any ideas on trouble shooting steps? Does the loss of power on both the Linc and Polk radio tell you something I should check and how? Red keypad functional, no backlight for Linc keys. Would a bad alternator cause these issues as well?

[vision]

I suspect the terminal fuse is blown or fell off when you switched out the battery switch. It branches power to the Linc. Motor electric circuit will work but not the linc. It is on the back of the battery switch.

[schaNYC]

Quote removed by Admin for not following the Guidelines for Quoting Previous Posts in a Thread.

Ah I recall seeing that translucent cube. I didn’t bother to check if it had blown. Thank you for pointing me in a new direction I had not tried. I assume it is this part linked below. Luckily Amazon has a bunch of Blue Sea items.

[jpwhit]

Almost certainly a power issue with both the stereo and Linc not working. If the fuse isn't the issue, disconnect the black 23 pin connector from the back of the Linc and use to meter to see if you have power betweens pins 7 and 8. The attached diagram is looking at the connector on the back of the Linc, you need to measure those pins in the plug for power, so you'll have to do the orientation translation. Looking in the plug, it'll be the bottom 2 pins on the right.

If you don't have power at those 2 pins with everything turned on, then you'll have to start tracing back to see when the problem is. Finding a wiring diagram for your boat would be very helpful.

There should also be power between pins 15 and 8. Pin 15 is the "ignition on" signal to the Linc display.

[schaNYC]

Terminal fuse was in tact, replaced anyway with new fuse anyway. Still no power to Linc or stereo amps. It seems my weekend will be spent as a contortionist with a multimeter in hand. These plugs do not look easy to unplug (for good reason).

[jpwhit]

They aren't that bad to get off. You can raise the little lock tab with your fingers and wiggle them off. The first time they can be a little stuck. But if they've been off recently, they come off fairly easily.

[schaNYC]

Update: I had a boat electrician take a look. At first glance it seemed like a bad relay, there's one that has 5 flat pins ziptied to other wires. He took off the relay and added a temporary jumper wire between pin sockets, which powered on my heater, amps, and LINC (it is not dead afterall!) The PCM Ground (Black) cable was unplugged during diagnosis. The old and new (replacement) relay repeatedly clicks (proving old relay appears to be functional and not the culprit). The amp shows protection fault (red blinking light synchronized with the relay clicks).

When the PCM Ground cable is plugged back in, clicking goes away, no fault light on amp. However, no power to amp or LINC still. Almost seems like I was atleast getting some power when ground was unplugged (albeit causing a trip) but zero power when Ground cable is plugged in.

I am relieved to see the amp and most of all the LINC is not dead and I've never been so excited to hear my depth guage alarm beeping. Any ideas on next steps or theories on how to troubleshoot this issue?