I’ve looked through all the topics I can find, including the poor man’s GT40 thread, but I think I have some random confounding issue here. I had symptoms of leaky injectors: hard hot start, running rich at idle, etc. So I replaced my injectors with accel 24lb, minitimer plug. They fit not as exceptionally as the oem, but still fit, and when I fired it up it’s started, then died. I’ve tested it a few times since, and it always starts then dies on a cold cold start. I’m going to test plugs, but I just want to make sure before I look for a confounding issue, would the nozzle/injector fit make a difference? I oiled understand a slightly different performance from the different injector, but I can’t imagine that would cause it not to start. Also I will test for compression but they seated very well and had the same measurements from seal to seal, so I think I’m fine on that front. Let me know if anyone has run into issues replacing injectors with new (slightly different) ones.
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Aug 2014
- 370
- Salt Lake City, Utah via Texas
- 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited with ZR6 Engine
I just installed new injectors 2 weeks ago. This is what I did:
- Ford Performance injectors - part number FMS-M-9593-LU24A ($213 at Summit Racing)
- EV-1 to EV-6 adaptors - part number BTC-EV1EV68 ($40 at Summit Racing)
- Fuel Pressure Regulator - part number PR15 ($27 at Rock Auto) (Standard Motor Products)
I also replaced the MAP and IAC while I was swapping out injectors.
JQ
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I had an issue recently with my GT40 stumbling under a load. Narrowed it down to injector problem after discovering a wet plug and declining pressure on the rail after priming. Sent my existing injectors out to be cleaned for about $15/ea. From my research it sounded like unless the coil tanks, the injectors don’t really need replaced. Haven’t tested a lot, but haven’t seen the issue again either.
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Well guys, this is embarrassing, but it turned out to be low battery charge, I hadn’t charged them since I got back from powell, but I put them on the trickle charger and after a day it fired right up. I read on the other forum I think that this can happen because the starter will run on less voltage than the ecm. Super weird but now I know. Also, Johnny, I bought the accel ones for 350 or something, I had no idea I could get fords for 215, too late now I guess. Anyway there was one thing I was gonna ask while everyone’s here, I’m pretty sure my battery goes so low because my alternator is too small, what kind of amperage should I get it rebuilt to? I’ve got a 12” sub, 2 10” tower speakers, and I’m pushing all of it with something like 2 800 or 1000 watt amps, I’m not sure of the amps, haven’t looked at them too closely to be honest.
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Aug 2014
- 370
- Salt Lake City, Utah via Texas
- 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited with ZR6 Engine
Your 2000 model year likely has the standard 50 amp alternator. NautiqueParts.com has an alternator upgrade kit for GT40 with a 100 amp unit. Part Number PCM RF097009A. Grab yer wallet, 'cuz it's $390 plus shipping. (Use the "PND" discount code for 10% off).
JQ
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Returning to this thread because I had issues again today. It started up perfectly fine, then I cut it off, pulled it out of the garage to test it, hooked it up to water, and I got no start. I then tried jump starting it because I thought it was a battery issue, but when I did that the starter stopped even turning over, maybe I blew it or something, I could only hear the solenoid click. Then I replaced the starter because I have a spare, replaced my arco 70200 with a 70125, but they should be almost the same right? Anyway now it cranks, but still no start, and the starter sounds kind of weirdly higher pitched, any ideas?
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