Rewiring Perfect Pass

[todda]

A topic that was taken up a while ago...but I was curious, as some of you have re-wired your Pos/Neg with 8 or 10 guage wire to the PP module (to get away from the daisy chain setup), how did you get it to be "switched" with the ignition, rather than "hot" all the time? Did you run your new Pos/Neg leads somewhere first, and then to the module?

Any help would be appreciated!
thanks-
Todd

[onenautiqueone]

RE: Rewiring Perfect Pass

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[wake_fun]

RE: Rewiring Perfect Pass

Send to me also!

[JR_VIC]

RE: Rewiring Perfect Pass

I posted a reply on ccfan regarding a similar issue that I was having with my SNCB. After doing some research with a professional custom stereo installer it seems that most electrical problems in cars/marine are ground related. I was having Perfect Pass problems as well as all of my other accessories and gauges were acting up. I fixed the ground problem and I no longer have any Perfect Pass problems (as my friend mentioned) and it turned out it was not a power supply problem after all. Here is my post from ccfan so maybe some of this information will help. Bottom line is now my gauges, accessories, and Perfect Pass are working flawlessy. Also...if I remember correclty Perfect Pass told me to attach the PP power supply to the purple ignition wire (I think it was purple but double check with Perfect Pass) that runs to the keyed igntion and they said to attach it as close to the keyed switch as possible. They told me it has to be wired to your keyed igntion so it only powers up when the key is turned on. Hope this helps...

"With all of the accessories I am running including my stereo system/Perfect Pa$$, my gauges were reading all over the map and Perfect Pa$$ would constantly be turning on and off due to a bad ground. Every time I turned on the Navigation Lights, Blower, etc. the oil pressure and water temp gauges would jump up. I got fed up with this issue and bought one of those brass/gold plated ground blocks that are used for car stereo installs for about $25. I ran a 4 gauge battery cable from my second battery under the dash and attached it to the ground block which I mounted near the steering unit. I then took off my dash pod and disconnected all of my added accessories that had been grounded under the dash and ran those ground wires individually to the newly added ground block. I also added a second ground wire to each and every gauge ground wire under the dash and ran those individually thru the dash to the ground block as well. I then installed a new ignition breaker switch as mine was worn out and ran large ten gauge wires out of the ignition switch over to the starter switch. I was only getting 11.2 volts at the switch before. I cleaned very electrical connection and added dielectric grease to every electrical connection and checked the crimps on all factory connectors. After all of this work it is SOOOO much better. I am getting 12.59 volts at the start switch with the key on and my volt gauge when the engine is running showed 13.8 which is the highest it has ever read and is accurate for probably the first time ever. I turned on every accessory on the dash and the water temp, fuel, and oil pressure did not even flinch which has never happened before either. With every single switch turned on/accessory operating my Perfect Pa$$ also never turned off and stayed on the whole time which was also a first. This was probably over kill by adding all of those ground wires to each gauge because I think the problem was all of those accessories being grounded under the dash but it works properly now and I could not be happier.

The only thing I have left to do is I have an 8 gauge wire that I am going to run from the rear solenoid/50 amp breaker all the way up to the dash and hook that up to the ignition breaker switch for more power to the dash. I may not need it now but even though the ground issue is fixed, with all of the accessories turned on I could hear the blower drop a little and the accessory lights dim a little as well which someone told me that may just be a drop in power and not a ground issue. I was told to run a larger power wire up to the dash as the stock power wire can not handle the current draw for all of the added accessories. Hope this helps."