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**bturner** · 09-12-2022, 08:01 AM

My thoughts.....

So here is there service plan
Remove prop. Have prop reconditioned for spare and by new to use - I was in the same place after bumping a stump and did the same a month ago.
Remove rudder. Clean, repack when reinstall - Not sure how the Nautique's from 08 are but the Mailbu's and MC's moved to the Johnson rudder ports that used a seal. I had one of these start leaking and replaced the port as the bushing get's worn and adding grease didn't fix it. If it's an OJ you can send it to them and they will remove and press in a new bushing, for a charge of course.
Remove shaft. Check shaft to be correct, straight, and free from excessive wear
Replace strut bearing (is that one 6in bearing, ITEM NO. S1095 STRUT BEARING FOR 1″ SHAFTS)
Reinstall shaft. Should be no play at strut with new bearing
Check alignment - If you're doing the above this goes without saying and is a great idea.
Repack shaft stuffing box - Don't know the boat but I'm surprised it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal. MC went to them in I think 05. If you've got the shaft out already I would consider moving to a dripless box.
Reinstall rudder. Clean and replace rudder packing. Lube where possible. Check steering for ease of use. - See above on rudder box comment. If you have steering stiffness 99.9% of the time it's a cable. It may seem good with no load but if in doubt rip it out. Once again you're already hip deep in this project so as they say, while you're in there.....
Replace bilge and ballast fill pump as needed. If the bilge pump is working I personally wouldn't mess with it. Once again I don't know this boat or when Nautique moved to reversible pumps but if it has them and they're not leaking from the bearing I would just pull the pump caps and check the impellers. I'm helping out with a Malibu that has the aerator pumps and their turning out to be a mess. Will probably end up replacing all of them for the newer Piranha pumps this spring.
Reinstall fuel and ballast tanks, deck panels, seat. - Wow, you need to pull the tanks to do remove the shaft or any of the other work mentioned here? Again, I'm not familiar with this boat so I really don't know but that seems rather crazy but again I don't know the boat.

If you have to pull the tanks to do the work above get ready for a big bill at a dealer. Someone recently was telling me the hourly was something like $150/hr up this way. I know back in 2009 I had some work done and it was $100/hr and that was 13 years ago and pre covid. Doesn't take long to rack up a crazy bill at that rate (or possibly more).

**Skidave** · 09-12-2022, 05:10 PM

I had tight steering on my 2003 206 and it was all in the rudder. The grease was so dry and the tiller arm adjustment was out a bit. I still installed a new cable. I have tanks, but the whole job to drop the rudder, pull a new cable and replace the packing was a Saturday in March. It wasn't bad.

Your thoughts with prop, shaft and packing make sense.

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**flyer08** · 09-12-2022, 05:59 PM

You may be able to drop the rudder without tank removal, but hard to get to.
Skidave, did you remove the take for rudder service?

I've had a few inboards, new to me is the prop nylock nut! Not a castle nut! The prop nut tight to prop leaves approx a 1in space to carter pin only through shaft end... Is this the standard for a 2008 206?

**Skidave** · 09-12-2022, 07:46 PM

I have 2 tanks and just enough room between them to service the rudder and remove the cable assembly. I also reached around the front of the gas tank, under the seat base for the steering cable as well.

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