05 206 TE battery selector switch

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  • gthalgott
    • Aug 2021
    • 2

    • Bloomington, IL

    • 2005 Air Nautique 206 TE

    05 206 TE battery selector switch

    I bought an '05 Air Nautique 206 TE two years ago. I generally like my stuff bone-stock, and this boat had a couple of aftermarket items that I wasn't thrilled about, but I wanted a direct-drive crossover boat, it was in nice shape and had been well-maintained, had low hours, and the price was right. Overall I love the boat but I have a couple of questions as it relates to the batteries. I include some information about the sound system for background.

    I am the third owner of the boat. The first owner added a sub and four large tower speakers, along with two additional amps to drive them (the factory amp that drives the factory speakers is still in place and functioning). During that process, the head unit was moved over to under the dash by the captains chair. All of the extra speakers, amps, etc did nothing for me but make folding the tower very difficult so I took it to a local audio shop this weekend and had the tower speakers removed along with the amp that drove them. I also had them remove the head unit by the captains chair and they hooked up the stock radio that was left in the glove compartment. The installer who did the work said that the previous wiring was done terribly and it took twice as long as he was expecting (and I of course paid for his extra time). I may have the aftermarket sub removed next year but I didn't want to press my luck with the installer that did the work. He told me that had he known how bad the old system was installed, he would not have taken the job.

    The next thing that I don't love is the battery situation. The stock battery is a group size 65 and it sits in it's normal position in the battery compartment. I believe that when the first owner installed the new sound system, they also installed a second battery with a battery selector switch. It's the simple 1, 2, or 1+2 switch. The battery compartment on the 206 is not large, so the second battery in the compartment is an ATV-type AGM battery that's small and hangs on a homemade bracket in the compartment. Position 1 on the switch is the main battery and position 2 is the little ATV battery.

    At some point my goal is to have my mechanic remove the second battery and switch and go back to the way it was from the factory with the single battery, but that won't be until next year. For now, I need to better understand how I should be using the battery selector switch. Since buying the boat, we have always simply put the selector in the 1+2 position and leave it there when on the lake. When we are done we turn it to the off position.

    Is the 1+2 position the best way to operate that switch, or is there a better way? I have wondered if the 1+2 position puts extra strain on the alternator and/or batteries. Is any of that an issue? We aren't the type that sits in a cove that listens to music for a long time. We usually go to the lake for about a few hours at a time in the evenings. One person skis, we may turn on the radio when the next skier is getting ready and the previous skier is getting in the boat. We may also take a break for 15-20 minutes, but again, we do a lot of hanging out in the boat with loud music. We are usually going or getting read to go.​

    Thank you in advance for your advice.
  • jkallen21
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Jan 2013
    • 399

    • United States

    • 2006 Super Air 220

    #2
    I have an 06 SANTE that also has that battery selector switch. However, my batteries are both normal size - one port side near front Seat and one startboard behind driver seat. I use exactly as you describe except I occasionally switch to just 1 or just 2 to verify it’s holding a charge to start the boat.

    Comment

    • MN Ryan
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Aug 2020
      • 1244

      • Maple Grove, MN

      • 2007 SV-211 TE

      #3
      I alternate days--Saturday on battery 1, Sunday on battery 2. That way, if I somehow drawn down battery 1 so far that it won't start the engine, I should be able to switch over to the other battery and fire it up.
      Last edited by MN Ryan; 05-08-2023, 12:30 PM. Reason: Added more info.

      Comment

      • bturner
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Jun 2019
        • 1562

        • MI

        • 2016 200 Sport Nautique

        #4
        First off..... Welcome to the used boat with crappy stereo installation club. I've had to un-F 4 so far and they seem to get worse as I go along but that could just be me not being able to bend like I use to when cleaning these up. The last 2 I basically stripped everything the PO did out of the boat and started from there. Also, while you may have a good shop don't be fooled into thinking some of these stereo shops don't do some absolute junk work themselves. There are good shops and bad shops like with everything else and but most don't have a clue when it comes to doing installations in boats unless that is their specialty.

        Ryan does what I've been told about using a 1 - 2 position switch. My understanding is 1+2 is supposed to be used only when you absolutely have to. Having 2 mismatched batteries is not a good idea unless you're running an isolator which BTW is the only dual battery system I'll install. Doing so means that the isolator does the work for you in determining which battery needs/gets charged.

        There's a couple guys on here that will disagree (basically for the sport of it) with just about anything stereo related so take any advice (including mine) with a grain of salt and do your own homework. If this were my boat I would go in the direction you're already going and bring the boat back to stock or take a page out of Ryan's book on his battery installation and maybe consider doing the isolator. Blue Seas makes a "add a battery kit" that is pretty easy to install and works great.

        https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RZNP5K...language=en_US

        If you need to run new cables do it right. Get the proper marine rated, gauge cables and ends. I've used these guys for years (https://www.customcableusa.com/) and have no complaints. If you know your lengths they'll even make the cables for you.

        On the Stereo..... Doesn't sound like you're tying to build a beast but you do have an 18YO stereo. Upgrading doesn't mean you have to break the bank but if all your looking to do is add something like Bluetooth you can get an adapter that plus into the AUX port of your existing stereo, is fairly easy to install and is under $100. I've installed a couple of the more featured versions for people and ditched the head unit completely. These are the 2 I go to the most.....

        https://www.crutchfield.com/S-g6sxGG...io-MBT-RX.html
        https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Fc99Dk...MBT-CRXv2.html

        Good luck with your adventure.


        Comment

        • MLA
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Dec 2009
          • 1312

          • Lake Wylie NC Area


          #5
          I would not want a wet cell and an AGM combined for any length of time. Their charge profile and intern resistance are so different. I would go ahead and disconnect the ground link between the main cranking battery and the small AGM. This simply takes it out of the loop.

          Comment

          • gthalgott
            • Aug 2021
            • 2

            • Bloomington, IL

            • 2005 Air Nautique 206 TE

            #6
            Thanks to all for your comments. The shop I used is a reputable one here in my area but they do most car audio and a few boats here and there. Regardless, my stereo is going to stay like this at least for the time being. After reading the comments re: the different batteries, I'm going to make some changes in the short term to how I use the switch (no more 1+2) and in the long term, getting rid of the system entirely.

            Comment

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