2001 Super Air Nautique 210 Main Wiring Harness

[SAN4Fun]

SAN4Fun, I’d be more than happy to help out. Most everything can be rebuilt. The wiring harness is not that complicated. I’m just curious where the burn is mostly contained.
I’m sure there is a wiring schematic on the forum and with my boat and help from others we can get you back up and running.

Just let me know.

Thank you so much for the help. I am really hopeful that between you and Rusty Barras that this can be figured out. The mechanic that I had take a look said that with new gauges and a new main wiring harness it could be fixed in about a day. I am not savvy enough to fix this myself, particularly with electrical. I have attached some pictures that hopefully will help. It looks like the burn went from the battery switch all the way to the console. I don't see any evidence that it went to the engine compartment but not really sure how to tell for sure. It looks like the red wire connecting to the black gateway(fuse box) is burned as well.

[196Mike]

I sent you a pm.

[Rusty Barras]

that doesnt look nearly as bad as i pictured. here are the gauges you could consider. these are what i used. GPS speedo, and the others wire up similar to OEM.

Those wires probably burnt because they are undersized from the factory. Go with a min 8ga to replace it. I re-ran mine awhile back due to voltage drop problems.

email me at rbarras@gmail.com if there's anything i can do to help. Hopefully with these part numbers and the diagrams i uploaded, you, 196mike and your mechanic get it sorted.

speedometer	faria chesapeke 33726
tachometer	faria chesapeke 33732
voltmeters	Faria chesapeake 13705
depth finder	faria chesapeake 13751
Oil	faria chesapeake 13702
Temp	faria chesapeake 13704
Fuel	faria chesapeake 13701

[SAN4Fun]

Thank you Rusty for the assistance. I have spoken with 196Mike and he is helping me out as well. Hopefully we can get it all sorted out. I truly appreciate all the knowledge and assistance from members of this forum.

I am not sure my gauges are all bad. What are the advantages of using these new(er) gauges over the old analog ones?

[SilentSeven]

Looking at the pictures....just wow. Kinda hard to tell (at least for me) how many circuits melted out but it looks like several... If I recall, all the dash wiring is fed from a dedicated hot that's Y-ed off the main positive post at the battery. This wire should have a factory installed fuse. Do you know if this is the wire that was tampered with to remove the fuse? If that circuit was un-fused and you had dash short, I guess I could see this happening. Any chance you can post a pic of the positive wire post connecting to the battery?

Also curious to learn if the power distribution unit survived unscathed or if it suffered damage. In the pictures, you can see that wires in that area show damage.

I think we'll all learn something with this repair. Keep posting.....

[SAN4Fun]

I have the service records from the previous owner and it looks like one of the large local marinas(same marina I bought it from on consignment) installed a battery switch in April 21' prior to my purchase in Aug 22'. They did not install a fuse/breaker as they should have so that was likely the cause for the extensive damage. I haven't gone back to them yet to address. I don't know if they could be held accountable or not. The boat was sold as is, but obviously they did some faulty work.

[SilentSeven]

Ah. My boat is a single battery. Did the switch install also include adding a second battery to the system? I could maybe see how wiring in that switch might have bypassed or dropped the dash circuit fuse I mentioned. But this is all very speculatory.....

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[SAN4Fun]

No second battery, just a battery disconnect switch to turn the battery on and off. I was planning on adding a second battery and a selector just prior to this issue.

[Rusty Barras]

Thank you Rusty for the assistance. I have spoken with 196Mike and he is helping me out as well. Hopefully we can get it all sorted out. I truly appreciate all the knowledge and assistance from members of this forum.

I am not sure my gauges are all bad. What are the advantages of using these new(er) gauges over the old analog ones?

if any are bad, you don’t want mismatched gauges. If insurance will cover it , it might be a good opportunity to replace them all with a matching set

[Rusty Barras]

No second battery, just a battery disconnect switch to turn the battery on and off. I was planning on adding a second battery and a selector just prior to this issue.

I have a schematic for how I did my 2nd battery if you would like a copy

[SAN4Fun]

if any are bad, you don’t want mismatched gauges. If insurance will cover it , it might be a good opportunity to replace them all with a matching set

My old gauges are analog so I be they are ok. All of them were working prior to this with the exception of the voltmeter, which is not really a big deal to me anyway.

If any others are determined to be bad, then I wouldn't mind replacing all of them.

[SAN4Fun]

I have a schematic for how I did my 2nd battery if you would like a copy

Sure, that could come in handy. I hope we get to the point where I can use it.

First things first though, I need to get the main electrical issue fixed and determine if there was any damage to other critical components in and around the console. After talking to 196Mike, I'm cautiously optimistic that we(he) can sort this out. He is very knowledgeable and has kindly volunteered his time to assist.

[SilentSeven]

Here's what I suspect happened when that switch was installed.

This is a picture of the battery side connection on my 2004 model 206. I believe this all factory wiring.

Wire 1 is the hot that runs to factory installed stereo amp. This wire is mounted to accessory lug on the hot post.

Wire 2 is the dedicated dash power wire. While you can't really see it in this picture, this wire is integrated into wire 3 so it's basically impossible to not have this wire connected when you attach the battery. This wire connects to the boat main on switch and feeds all non-engine related items. Power is distributed to accessories via the power distribution unit (black box with the rubber capped fuses).

Wire 3 is main cable that runs to the engine starter.

You can see the inline fuses for wire 1 (black inline bullet fuse) and 2 (blade fuse holder with cap removed).

When that switch was installed, I suspect they messed with wire 2 in a way that removed the inline fuse. Then when you incurred the fault that generated the short, you had a direct hot feed with no fuse from the battery which then dumped a couple hundred amps down the dash power wire. The overcurrent melted out the hot and ground wires. In a way you're lucky the boat didn't catch on fire.....

Inspect around your battery hot connection and I think this is what you'll find.

[SAN4Fun]

I think you are exactly correct. There is no fuse there. Now I am just hoping that the damage is not catastrophic.

[SilentSeven]

It's going to be interesting to see what's damaged. Here's my half guess of what a repair will require.

- All the melted out hot and ground wires will need to be replaced.

- Any device that is connected to melted wire must be evaluated. A burned out wire feeding something (say the dash heater blower motor) means that device was somehow grounded and had overcurrent running through it. The overcurrent may have killed the connected device.

- If the feed wire to the power distribution box is melted...and from one of the pictures above it looks possible...that's likely not good. Minimally, it means that PDU is likely juiced and will need to be replaced. If you were lucky, the damage ended there as the PDU has fused relays. However, if the current got past the PDU into the accessory harness, then it gets messy. The output from the PDU is a complex harness with a thick wiring bundle that then Y's off to different areas in the boat. It will be pretty hard to almost impossible to open up the bundle and repair individual wires.

This of course is all based on my how I understand my 206 to work...but it seems your wiring is similar. I'm hoping 196Mike has a different opinion or some magic that I'm not aware of..... I still think your best option is to try to source a harness from a salvage boat.

Best case is that the damage is limited to harness side from the battery that feeds the PDU. That would mean a limited amount of harness work. If the damage somehow got past the PDU and iinto the full accessory hardness...that's likely going to be pretty ugly to fix without a full harness replacement. The melted wires under the dash suggest it may have got past the PDU.

I hope I'm wrong.