Re-Assemble Jabsco Ballast Pump Electronic End

[uwhusky]

I took off the electronic end of one my Jabsco ballast pumps this weekend and am struggling to understand how to put it back together. See pictures below.

The end that came off has a spring that looks like it would go directly across (centered) on the spinning pin. I don't understand if or why it goes over that part. There are also a couple of loose / wired things that kind of look like magnets but I'm not sure they are.

Does anyone have experience with this or know of a video or diagram that goes over how these pieces mate up?

[Rednucleus]

pic of the other end that mates with this please; how is it held together?

[uwhusky]

Rednucleus Added end photo.
Thanks!

[Rednucleus]

Thank you - the loose black pieces are the brushes. They slide in the grooves (where the spring on the right is) and they are supposed to ride against the copper colored armiture. Are there screws on the outside of the case to change brushes? If not, I don't know how you will get the brushes to stay back in the grooves allowing you to slide it back over the armiture. Someone smarter than me will probably know!

[Rednucleus]

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=42810
Found it! scroll down for pics/procedure to get back together - I love taking stuff apart, even better when I can get them back together!!

[uwhusky]

Wow! Great find Rednucleus!! Thank you so much. Hopefully I will be able to make this work!

[uwhusky]

It's been a few weeks since my original post. But still looking for some advice.

I was able to put the jabsco pump back together but it can be debated about if I did it correctly and the pump is still in working condition. My guess is it's not.

I re-installed the pump into the boat and gave it a quick test. The video display throws a fault when I try to run it and it make no sound. The other two ballast takes make a sound when you flip them on, and then I immediately flip them off. But this pump doesn't make any sound and throws an error on the video screen.

So I think likely I'll need to buy a new pump and install it. I don't think anything is wrong with my electrical because the wires are in great shape and I re-attached them using marine grade heat shrinkable butt connectors. I really don't see any problems. But I suppose I could test the wires to be sure. I'm not real good with testing wires so it'd be a crap shoot.

I plan to order a new pump shortly. Any other recommendations or thoughts from those of you much smarter than I?

[SteveDoc]

Before you order a new pump pull it off and if you have a multi meter or can borrow one you can check it to see if the brushes are installed ok. If you put your meter on ohm setting and touch the two wires that go to the pump the reading should be a low resistance. If the reading says OL then the brushes are not touching the commutator, copper end, correctly. If you set your meter to DC and connect to your pump wires and turn The pump shaft by hand the Pump will generate a voltage if it is working ok. Finally you could also connect the pump motor wires to a 12 volt battery and it should turn if everything is ok. Looking at the pictures everything looks clean.
Good luck
Steve

[uwhusky]

SteveDoc thanks for the helpful advice on testing out my jabsco pump. I do have a multimeter so I'll give it a try. I'm just not that good with it and don't know if the reading I'm getting is a true reading or something related to user error. But your instructions are pretty clear and will help.

I went ahead and ordered a new jabsco pump just in case. If I'm able to get this one working, I can always return the other or I can have a spare laying around.

I'll update as to how things go.

Thanks!

[SteveDoc]

uwhusky when you get Around to checking the pump with the meter if you have any questions I’d be happy to talk you through it over the phone if you like might be easier. The write up and pictures that Rednucleus got you are pretty nice and should be helpful. That said your pump looks in a lot better shape.
Good Luck
Steve

[uwhusky]

SteveDoc I took the pump out. I used the multimeter as you suggested and it ready 0.9 in the 200M setting and 0.5 in the 200 setting. So I'm assuming the pump may be in good shape.

Is it possible the boat blew a fuse? Is there a way to run a similar test on the wires in the boat that connected to the pump?

I'm also going to look and see if I can find a fuse box.

[SteveDoc]

Uwhusky 200 ohm setting is the one to use I would have thought it would be a little higher maybe around 10 ohms but it does show something so it’s not open. I would put your meter to DC volts and connect meter leads to pump wires and turn pump by hand it should generate a low voltage.

Yes you can check if there is voltage going to the wires that connect to the pump in the boat. Meter on DC volts connect the meter leads to the connector or wires in the boat that connect to the pump. Turn on the pump and the meter should read 12 volts if it does then you are getting voltage to the pump if you don’t get any voltage reading then there could be a fuse issue or the pump switch not working.

Also like I suggested in my other post you can check If the pump is functional by connecting the pump wires momentarily to your 12V battery and it should operate.
Good Luck

[jpwhit]

SteveDoc

Is it possible the boat blew a fuse? Is there a way to run a similar test on the wires in the boat that connected to the pump?

I'm also going to look and see if I can find a fuse box.

No, the pumps on this era boats are connected to the Power Distribution Module (PDM). There aren't any fuses. Overload protection is handled electronically.

[uwhusky]

No, the pumps on this era boats are connected to the Power Distribution Module (PDM). There aren't any fuses. Overload protection is handled electronically.

That helps a lot. Thanks! Saves me scouring the boat for a fuse box this afternoon.

[uwhusky]

First, appreciate all the help from you guys. SteveDoc and others, I ordered a new pump and it just arrived.

I tested it and the old one using the same Ohm setting of 200. Old came out the same, 0.5. However the new one reads 1.8. I'm not sure what that tells me.

They're not identical pumps. Both are 12 V, but the amps and fuse are different. I'm not sure if this is a problem or not. My guess is the new one is slightly under-powered compared to the old one.

Amps 11.5 (old) and 8 (new)
Fuse 20 (old) and 15 (new)

My plan is to hook the new pump up to the boat just electrically and turn on the pump to see if it fires up. If it does, then I'll install it. If it doesn't, I'll likely take it in and have the mechanic figure things out.

Finally, I hooked up the multimeter in voltage setting on the two wires in the boat that hooked up to the pump. When I connected them and turned on them pump, the reading said "1" but before I hooked them up the multimeter was jumping around.