2014 G23 Ballast Pump Replace/Upgrade

[uga5]

New to me 2014 G23 with one brand new belly pump and original port/stbd pumps that sound like they are giving birth. Both are Jabsco 18670-6127, so they take the green impeller. I'll check the impellers, but it sounds more like the bearings are going. In my 2014, the these two pumps are mounted with heads on top and I have read the posts about that potentially causing issues in the long term.

Has anyone re-installed "head side down"? Pics?

Has anyone installed faster pumps?
As I understand it, the 2014s fill/drain and display on Linc 2.0 based on a timer, presumably @ 88gal/minute for the stock pump, and there is no pressure or flow sensor (please correct me if I am wrong). The 18670 pump draws ~11.5A @ 12V and power is supplied by PDM 1 or PDM2. Installing a King pump or other with a bigger amperage draw will surely trip and PDM or cause bigger problems. I saw mention of using relays or reversible winch relays to receive signal from Linc, but draw current from directly from the battery (fused connection needed). Has anyone tried this or found another way to power a bigger pump?

I know the fill indicator on Linc will be messed up, but I think I read about how the timing can be re-calibrated - not sure on a 2014 G though.

Any info or suggestions are appreciated!

[Michael Panribi]

If you are handy you can take the motors apart and replace the bearings. These are skateboard bearings easily sourced and cheap (Amazon: uxcell S608-2RS Stainless Steel Ball Bearing 8x22x7mm Double Sealed 608RS Bearings -- $10 / 5-Pack). When I took my armature out, the permanent magnets had come loose from the case. I removed them, wire brushed the rust off the magnets and case and used some plastic weld epoxy to secure the magnets. Mark the position (rotation, depth and which magnet goes where b4 you remove them or take pics). These motors have spring-loaded carbon brushes that are a pain to hold in the brush holders while replacing armature but with a little string (temporary) and fiddle factor, it can be done. The only part hard to come by is the shaft seal (Jabsco SP2701-52B). I just used some scotch-brite on the shaft and let it be. There is a water slinger (rubber washer) that spins on the shaft and should keep water out of the motor. The bearings were so cheap, I just figured I'd replace again if they corrode again. I bet your problem is the magnets coming loose and contacting the spinning armature. If you buy a new pump, you may have to switch the leads in the connector plug depending on whether the new motor is set up for port or starboard (if the fill switch empty the tank then switch the wires). I bought a new one the first time one went bad and rebuilt the old one. I now only rebuild and they seem to last (never rebuilt one twice yet ). Given that the boat has 3, rebuild is a good skill to have.