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There have been a few posts and maybe a Youtube or 20 on the topic. I thought I would throw out a step by step for any that may want to attempt this on their own. Probably one of the easier things to attempt on your own. If you are not snapping pictures along the way, a fresh water impeller replacement can be done in under 30 minutes.
Required tools: New Impeller & O-Rings, 1/2' ratchet or preferably a 1/2" breaker bar for leverage on the belt tensioner, 10mm deep socket or boxed end wrench for the pump cover, a pick or really small bladed screwdriver for the O-Rings, rags, a really bright light(s).
Oh and, so I don't get called out on this one, chips & beverages
I want to add to this 1st picture of the impeller below. Sometimes we get in a hurry, but when you pull your old impeller, check it for size against the new impeller. Very unlikely you got it wrong, but you'll save yourself a headache or worse, just to double check.
Pull the port side locker panel, you can access what you need from here.
1/2" breaker for belt tension pulley
Lefty loosey, counter clockwise until belt is relaxed on water pump pulley
Rock pulley preferably clockwise to align holes in pulley with the pump bolts (10mm)
I've had this impeller pulley laying around for a while, have never used it. I've pulled impellers with pliers or channel locks before. I will give it credit for removing the impeller unharmed in one piece. Although I think this one would of slipped out, without much effort.
Pick out cover O-Ring. There are also 3 O-Ring's that seal the bolts, and keep them from falling out into the depths of never seeing them again belly pan. I don't replace these but maybe every 2 or 3 change outs. Choose your own preference here.
This will be user preference. Anything that moves gets white litho, and if it has threads, it gets anti-seize. It has always worked for me, not open for debate. Do what works for you.
Coat the housing, impeller, and cover. You can also use soap as charlesml3 mentions below. This will make the impeller slip in easier.
Clockwise rotation to make sure everything is seated and intact.
Reseat belt. If you get a little wild in the process and knock the belt off of a couple of pulleys, there is a diagram. If not, I hope you took a picture 1st.
Maybe a little over the top, but anything that gets changed on a regular basis, gets a label, everything (except for the light bulbs & underwear, those are pretty obvious). Too many toys to keep track of, and running to a spreadsheet sometimes get's neglected.
I hope this helps if you have thinking of attempting this. Those that do their own maintenance can do this one with their eyes closed.
I didn't show the new impeller slip in, but if you got the old one out, it's pretty obvious at that point. I would suggest a clockwise spin to get the impeller vanes headed the correct direction, but at the end of the day, one could argue that it really matters, they will take heed the direction they need to go. Be snug but soft of the bolt torque, you are threading into brass. Check for leaks on fire up.
See you on the water...
~Scooter G
Required tools: New Impeller & O-Rings, 1/2' ratchet or preferably a 1/2" breaker bar for leverage on the belt tensioner, 10mm deep socket or boxed end wrench for the pump cover, a pick or really small bladed screwdriver for the O-Rings, rags, a really bright light(s).
Oh and, so I don't get called out on this one, chips & beverages
I want to add to this 1st picture of the impeller below. Sometimes we get in a hurry, but when you pull your old impeller, check it for size against the new impeller. Very unlikely you got it wrong, but you'll save yourself a headache or worse, just to double check.
Pull the port side locker panel, you can access what you need from here.
1/2" breaker for belt tension pulley
Lefty loosey, counter clockwise until belt is relaxed on water pump pulley
Rock pulley preferably clockwise to align holes in pulley with the pump bolts (10mm)
I've had this impeller pulley laying around for a while, have never used it. I've pulled impellers with pliers or channel locks before. I will give it credit for removing the impeller unharmed in one piece. Although I think this one would of slipped out, without much effort.
Pick out cover O-Ring. There are also 3 O-Ring's that seal the bolts, and keep them from falling out into the depths of never seeing them again belly pan. I don't replace these but maybe every 2 or 3 change outs. Choose your own preference here.
This will be user preference. Anything that moves gets white litho, and if it has threads, it gets anti-seize. It has always worked for me, not open for debate. Do what works for you.
Coat the housing, impeller, and cover. You can also use soap as charlesml3 mentions below. This will make the impeller slip in easier.
Clockwise rotation to make sure everything is seated and intact.
Reseat belt. If you get a little wild in the process and knock the belt off of a couple of pulleys, there is a diagram. If not, I hope you took a picture 1st.
Maybe a little over the top, but anything that gets changed on a regular basis, gets a label, everything (except for the light bulbs & underwear, those are pretty obvious). Too many toys to keep track of, and running to a spreadsheet sometimes get's neglected.
I hope this helps if you have thinking of attempting this. Those that do their own maintenance can do this one with their eyes closed.
I didn't show the new impeller slip in, but if you got the old one out, it's pretty obvious at that point. I would suggest a clockwise spin to get the impeller vanes headed the correct direction, but at the end of the day, one could argue that it really matters, they will take heed the direction they need to go. Be snug but soft of the bolt torque, you are threading into brass. Check for leaks on fire up.
See you on the water...
~Scooter G
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