2000 SAN prop shaft seal leaking

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  • msquito
    • Jun 2020
    • 82

    • WA

    • 2000 Super Air Nautique

    2000 SAN prop shaft seal leaking

    Hey all,
    Wrapping up our pre-season tinkering this week, just got the exhaust hose reconnected to newly installed FAE after giving it a couple weeks to cure, and decided to fill bilge to see if I could do a check for leaks. Ran the hose and put a few inches of water in there, opened a beer and waited. After about 15 min, found a steady drip coming down the prop-shaft. Here's a video to give an idea: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nY2dG11PjiiZ1JeJ6

    A few questions...
    1. Is this water egress representative of the water ingress we should expect?
    2, How bad is this? Does this need to be fixed before putting in the water for the season? My own OCD tendencies say any water intrusion is undesirable, but I then remind myself to be reasonable, that it's a 24yo boat...
    3. Assuming this needs to be fixed now, is this a reasonable do-it-yourselfer? I've watched a few videos and done some preliminary research, but not found anything specific to 2000 SAN. My impressions are that internal access for a v-drive is what makes the job tough...
    4. Any experience with the OJ flex gland seal? I am attracted to the fewer connections (no water-line), but don't want to sacrifice longevity/efficacy for convenience. https://www.ojprops.com/products/flex-gland/ (note TLS cert expired today, site/link looks to still be legit)

    tia for any thoughts on the above!
  • jpwhit
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Aug 2016
    • 526

    • Cary, NC

    • 1998 Ski Nautique 2012 Nautique 200 2014 MasterCraft X25 . 2019 MasterCraft ProStar

    #2
    Do you have a water-cooled dripless seal on the boat? If you're not sure, look to see if there is a small water feed tube connected to the seal. If it is, and if you had run the boat anytime that day, then the drip is water from the cooling system, not a leak.

    If it's not a water-cooled shaft seal, it still may not be a leak or one of any significance. Water doesn't flow out of many places on a boat than it flows in. Especially anything that is a "seal". Many seals are designed in such a way that they prevent leakage in one direction. It's part of why I'm not a proponent of putting water in the bilge to find leaks.

    Comment

    • msquito
      • Jun 2020
      • 82

      • WA

      • 2000 Super Air Nautique

      #3
      All good points. If water out isn't an accurate means to estimate water in, then we should probably put this thread to rest right now : )))
      The engine had not been run in months, so not coolant water. I had just assumed the seal was the water cooled variety, but Seattle Watersports suggested the 2000 was packed from the factory - I haven't looked to verify seal type. I know nothing has been done to it in last 3 seasons, I'd be surprised if it was upgraded from stock by PO.
      Thx

      Comment

      • charlesml3
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Jan 2008
        • 2454

        • Lake Gaston, NC

        • 2022 G23

        #4
        No, stop what you're doing. On a MY 2000, the seal is SUPPOSED to leak. It needs to leak. Put the boat in the water and shine a flashlight on the driveshaft seal. If it's pouring water, tighten it a little. If it's not even dripping, loosen it a little. Anything else, leave it alone.

        There are lots of threads with people "fixing the leak" and burning up the stuffing box because it isn't getting enough water to keep it cool. A dripping shaft is nothing to worry about. Even the smallest of bilge pumps can keep up with that.

        -Charles

        Comment

        • msquito
          • Jun 2020
          • 82

          • WA

          • 2000 Super Air Nautique

          #5
          Thx. Makes sense. How about repacking it with new cord, how often does that need to be done? As above, nothing has been done to the seal since we picked it up. This will be our fourth season.

          Cheers!

          Comment

          • jpwhit
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Aug 2016
            • 526

            • Cary, NC

            • 1998 Ski Nautique 2012 Nautique 200 2014 MasterCraft X25 . 2019 MasterCraft ProStar

            #6
            Did my 200 for the first time at 2000 hours. Probably didn't really need to be done, but since it's so easy on a direct drive I did it for the heck of it when it was dripping a little faster than required.

            Comment

            • charlesml3
              1,000 Post Club Member
              • Jan 2008
              • 2454

              • Lake Gaston, NC

              • 2022 G23

              #7
              Originally posted by msquito View Post
              Thx. Makes sense. How about repacking it with new cord, how often does that need to be done?
              I kept my 99 Air Nautique for 17 years and never did anything to the stuffing box other than checking it every now and then to see if it was still dripping. This really isn't a maintenance item you need to address. If it's dripping, leave it alone. More than one owner here on PN has "fixed the leaking stuffing box" by tightening it so much it stops dripping, and... overheated the fitting. It is SUPPOSED to leak. It has to leak a little to keep itself cooled.

              -Charles

              Comment

              • msquito
                • Jun 2020
                • 82

                • WA

                • 2000 Super Air Nautique

                #8
                Thx all. This site continues to keep me out of trouble (while inspiring new trouble : )))
                Last edited by msquito; 05-13-2024, 03:29 PM.

                Comment

                • Chainsetter
                  • Oct 2024
                  • 6

                  • Columbia, South Carolina

                  • 2002 SAN

                  #9
                  Had to tighten mine. You need to order a prop packing wrench from skidim or something like that. If you do end up wanting to tighten.

                  Comment

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