There are a few good threads and YouTube videos on this subject, but I thought I would throw out my experience in the process, and maybe some hacks, and stumbles. Changing the fuel filter in the canister wasn’t as daunting as I 1st initially thought it would be. After staring at those stuck on hoses and wiring for a few minutes, all in a tight spot, and wiping the sweat off my brow, I thought, I wonder if this is doable without removing anything other than the low pressure wiring harness..?
7/16 deep well socket, 5/16" nut driver, 7/8" box wrench, picks for o-rings, rags, drain pan, bright light(s)
Disconnect harness, it's the one you can see and access. Push in on the locking tab and pull apart.
After wrestling with one of the gas lines, there was no way that thing was going to budge without some slicing & dicing, and for some reason I was a little uncomfortable putting a heat gun next to anything related to fuel. Hose is going to stay where it is.
7/8" drain nut on bottom of bowl.
I keep a stack of aluminum pans of various sizes in the shop. Moldable and come in handy.
Concept was good, but there was no way I was getting than pan full of gas out of there intact. There a a few kitchen items that come in handy. Word to the wise, get your own, don't raid the kitchen. Just sayin' from experience here. Turkey baster was the only thing I could think of at the time as my go to fuel transfer tool.
Loosen canister clamp 7/16"
Multiple turns with a 7/16' will get it loose enough to undo the clasp on the back end.
A few gentle wiggles while working the canister down will slide it off the 2 o-rings at the top of the canister housing.
I was able to set it between the rail and engine with out removing any additional lines or hoses.
Picked the filter out. Some needle nose pliers might of come in handy, but I was up for a challenge (more like not crawling in & out of the boat while solo), and was able to work the old filter out with my fingers
O-ring R&R. Out with the old, in with the new. I used a light touch of silicon on the o-rings to assist in the bowl sliding back on.
I placed the new filter in the bowl, slide up and over, a little wiggle and upward pressure, you'll be able to visually see the cup is as far as it will go.
Reverse the process, clamp back on, and plug in harness.
I did 3 complete start and stop cycles at the key pad, and then did a 30 second start up to check for leaks, fired right up.
I thought I would get the hardest out of the way 1st, before moving on to the the easy fuel separator filter.
I mean, how hard could that possibly be? A filter wrench and a couple of spins.
Man was I wrong, I got worked.
Details to follow...
7/16 deep well socket, 5/16" nut driver, 7/8" box wrench, picks for o-rings, rags, drain pan, bright light(s)
Disconnect harness, it's the one you can see and access. Push in on the locking tab and pull apart.
After wrestling with one of the gas lines, there was no way that thing was going to budge without some slicing & dicing, and for some reason I was a little uncomfortable putting a heat gun next to anything related to fuel. Hose is going to stay where it is.
7/8" drain nut on bottom of bowl.
I keep a stack of aluminum pans of various sizes in the shop. Moldable and come in handy.
Concept was good, but there was no way I was getting than pan full of gas out of there intact. There a a few kitchen items that come in handy. Word to the wise, get your own, don't raid the kitchen. Just sayin' from experience here. Turkey baster was the only thing I could think of at the time as my go to fuel transfer tool.
Loosen canister clamp 7/16"
Multiple turns with a 7/16' will get it loose enough to undo the clasp on the back end.
A few gentle wiggles while working the canister down will slide it off the 2 o-rings at the top of the canister housing.
I was able to set it between the rail and engine with out removing any additional lines or hoses.
Picked the filter out. Some needle nose pliers might of come in handy, but I was up for a challenge (more like not crawling in & out of the boat while solo), and was able to work the old filter out with my fingers
O-ring R&R. Out with the old, in with the new. I used a light touch of silicon on the o-rings to assist in the bowl sliding back on.
I placed the new filter in the bowl, slide up and over, a little wiggle and upward pressure, you'll be able to visually see the cup is as far as it will go.
Reverse the process, clamp back on, and plug in harness.
I did 3 complete start and stop cycles at the key pad, and then did a 30 second start up to check for leaks, fired right up.
I thought I would get the hardest out of the way 1st, before moving on to the the easy fuel separator filter.
I mean, how hard could that possibly be? A filter wrench and a couple of spins.
Man was I wrong, I got worked.
Details to follow...
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