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Hello Everyone. You guys have a great forum. Been hanging out reading a lot of the posts. You all have some great input. I am very glad to have joined.
I need some help. I am a newbie. Bought my first boat, a 1995 GT40 Pro Boss. Has 1038 hours on it and it is immaculate. I am surprised how this boat has survived the test of time. The original owner took impeccable care of this thing, with every maintenance record since new. Only dealer maintained as well. In any case, I have only had it for about two weeks. Again, I am new to this so please forgive any mistakes on my behalf. I bought it as a running boat, or so I thought. It started great when I went to see it and idled like a dream on the trailer. Once getting it home, I noticed it had an extended cranking condition. It would crank and crank and crank, and then would all of a sudden start. Once it started it ran great. It would restart quickly as well, once I got past that initial cold start cranking issue. I did my maintenance, and dragged her up to the lake thinking once I got past the initial cranking issue we would be good. Once I put her in the water, she would crank, start immediately, run for a second and die. (Note: the starting condition changed simply by towing it to the lake. I did nothing else to it to cause this change other than transport it.) I would try to start it again and it would do the same thing over and over. I once had a car do that exact same thing to me and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. So I started to examine the one in the boat and noticed that while it looked new, it literally came apart in my hands as I tried to remove it. Ok, thought I had the answer. Ordered a new switch from Nautique Parts and installed it. Boat did the same thing....crank, fire right up, run for one second, then die. After playing with it for awhile, I noticed the LP fuel pump wasn't priming. So I tested the ignition switch and had constant power from battery, when switch was in the run position I had power, and then when cranking it also had power (obviously). So, I jumped on the forums and started to read LOTS of information about boats that wouldn't start. I have used a lot for he great info to check things over, but I am still in a crank, start for one second then shut off condition. I have checked the following items:
Battery is new
Battery cables are in like new condition. They are tight and no corrosion present.
Checked operation of lanyard. With key on, removing and replacing the lanyard I can hear the relay on the panel at the back of the engine click. Tested multiple times, and it seems to switch on and off well.
Checked the ground junction at the left rear cylinder head. All connections were in like new condition. I removed the bolt, but dielectric grease on all grounds, and reinstalled.
Provided auxiliary power to both the LP and HP fuel pumps. Both will turn on independently and run.
Checked for power to the pumps at the connectors - no power with key on, but once cranking the test light would light up indicating power.
I thoroughly checked all wiring and the harness that runs along the top of the engine back to the ECU. Everything seems in order. The wire sheathing is in good condition, although there are rat droppings on the intake manifold.
Checked for spark at the coil and at the #5 cylinder. It has a STRONG spark (ask me how I know!)
Here is the weird part. I sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle body and it would fire right up, run for a second and shut off, even though I was still spraying the starting fluid. It seems like something is causing the engine to shut off.
With all of that in mind, it seems to me whatever module that commands the fuel pumps to turn on it bad? I am assuming that is the main ECU? Has anyone had a problem like this before?? One thing I was able to check, is someone said they had corrosion build up on a fuse located up by the battery off the positive cable. I looked but cannot find any such fuse on my boat. It also seems I get inconsistent voltage readings at the pump power supply. One time I will get 12v, then I test again, and will have zero or even a small draw.
I am stumped. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Looking forward to hearing what you have to say.
Thanks,
Todd
I need some help. I am a newbie. Bought my first boat, a 1995 GT40 Pro Boss. Has 1038 hours on it and it is immaculate. I am surprised how this boat has survived the test of time. The original owner took impeccable care of this thing, with every maintenance record since new. Only dealer maintained as well. In any case, I have only had it for about two weeks. Again, I am new to this so please forgive any mistakes on my behalf. I bought it as a running boat, or so I thought. It started great when I went to see it and idled like a dream on the trailer. Once getting it home, I noticed it had an extended cranking condition. It would crank and crank and crank, and then would all of a sudden start. Once it started it ran great. It would restart quickly as well, once I got past that initial cold start cranking issue. I did my maintenance, and dragged her up to the lake thinking once I got past the initial cranking issue we would be good. Once I put her in the water, she would crank, start immediately, run for a second and die. (Note: the starting condition changed simply by towing it to the lake. I did nothing else to it to cause this change other than transport it.) I would try to start it again and it would do the same thing over and over. I once had a car do that exact same thing to me and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. So I started to examine the one in the boat and noticed that while it looked new, it literally came apart in my hands as I tried to remove it. Ok, thought I had the answer. Ordered a new switch from Nautique Parts and installed it. Boat did the same thing....crank, fire right up, run for one second, then die. After playing with it for awhile, I noticed the LP fuel pump wasn't priming. So I tested the ignition switch and had constant power from battery, when switch was in the run position I had power, and then when cranking it also had power (obviously). So, I jumped on the forums and started to read LOTS of information about boats that wouldn't start. I have used a lot for he great info to check things over, but I am still in a crank, start for one second then shut off condition. I have checked the following items:
Battery is new
Battery cables are in like new condition. They are tight and no corrosion present.
Checked operation of lanyard. With key on, removing and replacing the lanyard I can hear the relay on the panel at the back of the engine click. Tested multiple times, and it seems to switch on and off well.
Checked the ground junction at the left rear cylinder head. All connections were in like new condition. I removed the bolt, but dielectric grease on all grounds, and reinstalled.
Provided auxiliary power to both the LP and HP fuel pumps. Both will turn on independently and run.
Checked for power to the pumps at the connectors - no power with key on, but once cranking the test light would light up indicating power.
I thoroughly checked all wiring and the harness that runs along the top of the engine back to the ECU. Everything seems in order. The wire sheathing is in good condition, although there are rat droppings on the intake manifold.
Checked for spark at the coil and at the #5 cylinder. It has a STRONG spark (ask me how I know!)
Here is the weird part. I sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle body and it would fire right up, run for a second and shut off, even though I was still spraying the starting fluid. It seems like something is causing the engine to shut off.
With all of that in mind, it seems to me whatever module that commands the fuel pumps to turn on it bad? I am assuming that is the main ECU? Has anyone had a problem like this before?? One thing I was able to check, is someone said they had corrosion build up on a fuse located up by the battery off the positive cable. I looked but cannot find any such fuse on my boat. It also seems I get inconsistent voltage readings at the pump power supply. One time I will get 12v, then I test again, and will have zero or even a small draw.
I am stumped. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Looking forward to hearing what you have to say.
Thanks,
Todd
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