Sport Nautique Teak Swim Platform

[Backwashphili]

G‘day!

I’m currently remodeling our wooden swim platform and was hoping for your inputs:

- What kind of glue should I use to glue together the underlying stringer and the wooden top so that I will get an air and water tight composite. Looks like a black kind of silicone has been used by the previous owner.

- Some wooden planks from the top layer look a bit rotten from the underside where the stringer was, is there some kind of treatment I should apply before putting it back together?

- I didn’t want to sand it off too much as the whole platform should stay as strong as possible.

Thanks for your inputs,
Phil

[Backwashphili]

I used this silicone:
TDS Teak Decking System Deck-Caulk 305ml
and it worked fine.

using stainless steel screws should also make it more durable.
end result:

[bturner]

Sorry to see no oner responded to this as that is not typical.

Looks like you've already committed to a resolution but I'll throw in my thoughts and experience.....

I've never glued anything when it came to the platform. MY understanding and experience with the MasterCraft Platforms at least, was that everything was screwed together and that was it. I had to replace a couple boards on a 97 ProStar once and I basically unscrewed it from the bottom and lifted the board away. Got a new one from Teak World

https://teakworldenterprises.com/col...swim-platforms

which I was told makes most (if not all) of the platforms for the tow boat manufactures. As a side note.... they ain't cheap. Don't know how much it was but I do recall I was shocked by the price.

[bturner]

On cleaning.....

After years of using chemicals to clean the teak I've been doing this method for probably the last 15 years after seeing one of my buddies clean his. On a very dirty, non-maintained platform.....

Pull the platform off and take it to the quarter carwash. Lay it down in the stall and select soap mode for the wash cycle. Slowly move across the platform one board at a time with the wand in about a 45° angle. The results will shock you. Be careful that you don't get too close or you'll start blowing apart the wood. I'll do this both on the top and bottom making second or third passes all in the direction of the grain. Once you feel like you've gotten everything as clean as it's going to get, take it home and let it dry thoroughly in the sun flipping it over to make sure the bottom is dry as well. The car wash will easily take out all those dark spots out on the first pass.

It's important that the platform is bone dry before moving on. Once you're sure the platform is completely dry, it's probably going to look pretty bad. On a platform that was heavily soiled or one from a used boat I'm trying to put back in shape I'll use a 2-step product like Te-Ka to thoroughly clean for my base to finish off the platform.

https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Te-ka-Teak-Cleaner-Rm341k/dp/B0064MVCG4/ref=asc_df_B0064MVCG4?mcid=672adfa778143c20a934ac2 95e7fdf23&hvocijid=12334461555935459490-B0064MVCG4-&hvexpln=73&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g &hv rand=12334461555935459490&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h vdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016859&hvtarg id=pla-2281435180938&psc=1

Follow the directions for the product. You don't have to get nuts here as it should be really clean from the car wash process. I typically only will do this once as once you get the teak where you want it, you should only need to do the Te-Ka if you let the platform get really bad again.

After this you get into some holy wars about the best way to finish Teak and what the best products are. Sort of like "what's the best wax?" or What's the best process to winterize?" type of thing. I don't make table top finish platforms anymore so I'm sure my process will freak some out. Mine look great from 3' but that's as far as I go these days. So, fully prepared for the hate this is what I do.....

I don't hand sand anymore, I use my DeWalt random orbital sander

(https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-MAX-XR-Cordless-Brushless-1-4-Sheet-Variable-Speed-Sander-Tool-Only-DCW200B/311533019?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=vantage&utm_c a mpaign=50208&utm_content=52470&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-DEWALT-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK894789001-50208-NBR-5704-NA-VNT-FY25Q1_Q4_Dewalt_D25P_PowerTools_OAM_AON_BAU_Oppor tunity&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-DEWALT-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK894789001-50208-NBR-5704-NA-VNT-FY25Q1_Q4_Dewalt_D25P_PowerTools_OAM_AON_BAU_Oppor tunity-22176828405--&gad_source=1&gclsrc=ds)

and will start with 80 moving with the grain and lightly hitting the outside board ends so as to take of a minimal amount of material on the end board radius. I'll then go back over everything with 150 and pretty much call it a day there. If you want something smoother/prettier you can keep moving to finer grits and increase you detail on the bord or tear the whole thing down and do the individual boards (yeah, I've done this a couple times too). Once sanded, finish with you're favorite "holy war" Teak finish and you're done.

Once you get this point (depending on how much time you have on your hands and how OCD you want to be) you should only need to do the car wash thing and maybe lightly sand from there.

[Formandfunction]

Wood decks shouldn't require any glue or cleaning other than soap/water.
if it's turned white/black I sand off the bleached layer with 400 grit and teak oil or linseed twice a year.
all that should ever be put on teak is oil.