Need new Ballast Pumps, Opinions?

[brettmski]

I know many of you have put new ballast pumps in your boats. I have a 1999 Pro Air Nautique and I need to put new pumps in. What is the best out there? I would like to just flip the switch and let the tanks fill if possiable.

[Sinkoumn]

RE: Need new Ballast Pumps, Opinions?

Are you going to be filling off of a manifold, or will each pump run off of it's own thru-hull fitting?

I use mayfair pumps (6 total, each fill pump is running off of its own thru-hull (manifolds suck IMO) for my ballast system, works perfectly. In my older boat I used the Simer pumps that were reversible when you wired the switch backwards (so one pump filled and emptied).

Jabsco is another option, but they're expensive - I've never used them for that reason, but I'm sure they have benefits ( like being ignition protected for one) over other pumps.

[Andrew]

RE: Need new Ballast Pumps, Opinions?

so, u have a half dozen holes in the bottom of ur hull?

i'm goin with the jabsco pump........

[Sinkoumn]

RE: Need new Ballast Pumps, Opinions?

Nope, just three

[Quinner]

RE: Need new Ballast Pumps, Opinions?

Brettmski,

Is your boat equipped with the factory tanks and setup? If so you should have 2 pumps, 1 for fill and one for empty. Also the 99's will fill while underway with the pumps assisting the process only. Draining will work the same way. If the existing pumps are not working check for a fuse, it was either behind the throttle or under the removable dash pod, cannot remember exactly.

I had a 99' Air with the factory setup, pumps went out after about 3 seasons, replaced with same, they were basically aerator pumps if I remember correctly.

So to answer your question, if you have the factory setup with pumps you should be able to just flip a switch to fill the tanks either while underway or while not moving.

[brettmski]

I have the factory set up in the boat. I have power at both the pumps so I am guessing the pumps are bad (they are original pumps). I think I will probably go with the Jabsco (which model)?

Also how long should it take to drain the tanks without the pumps? This ballast system is all new to me and I really do not have any procedures to follow...

[Flux]

My personal preference is the aerator style pumps that were stock in those years. Mine are Rule 1100 gph. They have low amp draw, don't need maintenance (impellers), light, can be run dry if you mess up and leave them on, and get the job done. Here's a good source for them:

http://www.livebaitlarry.com these guys hooked me up and actually hand delivered the pumps as one of the guys lives in my area.

I carry a spare in my boat. I think amp for amp, the aerator pumps are better and faster. The jabsco type impeller pumps are nice though, and self priming, but are bulky and suck alot of power and blow fuses if they are sticking. I suggest you get push button breakers for them so you can reset them.

My $0.02

[Miljack]

Brett,
I also have a 99 Pro Air and I'm in the middle of re-doing my ballast system, so I have the fuel tanks and the ballast tanks out.

You need to check the hoses after the output side of your fill pump (under the removable floor section behind the engine "doghouse"). I found that my hoses had a small tear in them that would sometimes fill the bilge with water, and also of course make filling very slow. The stock hoses are the convoluted clear w/black pvc spiral reinforcement. The actual wall thickness of this type of hose is very thin, and once they become older are prone to failure.
Unfortunately, the fill hoses after the pump go to a "t" which is ty-wrapped to the steering cable mount in front of the rudder. To get to this while the fuel tank is in MIGHT be possible, put you will have one **** of a time putting a new hose back to the ballast tanks.
I hope I haven't scared you, but to replace the stock hoses is not going to be easy. I would plan on getting a heat gun to help get the hoses off of the barbed fittings, and plan on the best part of a day laying on your stomach with a flashlight!
Let me know if you have any questions about where the hoses attach to the stock tanks...

Jack

[rbalan]

Jack, what did you decide on for your ballast layout?

[Miljack]

Rbalan,
I've decided for now to remove the stock tanks and go with two "v drive" Fly hi x series bags (42"x16"x16" i think), and I've got a custom locker sack from Fly hi that should be about 550+ pounds. I've decided to use the following pumps and hardware;

3 x Tsunami 1200's fill
3 x Tsunami 800's drain
1 x "RV" waste dump electric gate valve
1 x custom PVC fittings manifold (built from 2" PVC T's and elbows)

I'm going to use the Flow Rite quick disconnect fitting for the bags, and 1 1/8" hose to connect the fill side, 3/4" id for the drain. I'll drain through the side, and fill from the original location through hull.
I increased the stock through hull from 3/4" to 1 1/4" and will run 1 1/2" hose into the 2" custom PVC manifold. I also have a 1 1/4 ball valve right after the through hull for safety.
Fitting all this in the bilge of the engine compartment is going to be tough, but I think it's doable.
I'll do project posting with pics as I get stuff done. I'll also elaborate on why I changed my mind from the stock tanks + sack on top to this setup.
thanks,
Jack

[rbalan]

Jack,

What's the dimensions/price for the custom locker sac? I just sent Flyhigh dimensions for a locker sac and a single rear compartment sac today. I had planned on using the v drive sacs and rear seat sac but if I can get a little more weight in there for just a little more money, I may go the custom route. I look forward to some pictures; Hurry up so I can learn from any mistakes you make Yellow_Flash_Colorz: !

Randall

[Miljack]

Randall,
the locker sack I did was 76" x 20" x 10", I think 10" for height is a little too much with the way the sack bulges, probably could go 19" on the width, and 9" on height. I paid $280 for the custom locker sack, but I think it was worth it because I got about 200+ more weight than a standard locker sack, also Fly hi uses the OEM material for custom sacks, and compared to the standard Fly HI's seem even more bombproof.
Let me know what you come up with on the rear, maybe we can get them to build two and save some bux...I figured 76-78" wide, 18" deep, 18" high, but the trick on my boat is it would need to have a radius, and ideally a angles outside (next to the transom) to get the most weight back there.
thanks,
Jack

thanks,
Jack

[brettmski]

Actually I have to do the steering cable so I guess I will do it all then. Thanks for the info!!!

[rbalan]

The dimensions I sent them were 84*19*17. The width I used was 84" to account for "buckling" to countour the gas tank. 18" seemed a bit too high and might lift the top when full. I think this will allow for 90-110 lbs more than the vdrive sacs and keep the system more simple (less plumbing). I also will have to do something about the screws on the sides that mount the deck to the hull (probably a little grinding and fiberglassing). I'll let you know when they send me back an estimate.

[Miljack]

Randall,
that rear sack should come in at ~1020# full, but are they worried about the thing pushing the gas tank around if the tank is below full up?

Flyhi has a Gravity Games "oem" bag that's 88" x 19" x 19"...
Let me know what you find out.
Chris at Flyhi was good to work with, and they turned around my locker sack quickly! I got it 4 days after ordering...

Jack