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Do any of you who use your boat in the winter have these installed? It looks like they would make winterizing much faster, especially if you have to drain the water out after each run during the colder months.
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I have a quick drain set-up, but I have yet to find a real "easy" way to drain the V-Drive. I have pet-cocks and ball valves on all the freeze plugs, and a hose that connects the two manifolds with a quick disconnect in it for draining. This system works well.
I have a heater and this is where things get more complicated. The heater connects at the top of the motor and at one of the freeze plugs. Each of these areas I have cut the house and added a T with a ball valve and a length of hose. When I want to drain it I open the valves and blow into it to clear the line. This works faster but real well.
Anyone else have any better systems?2001 Super Air -
I just suck marine/RV antifreeze into the system, and leave it in there, but we usually only see a low of around 20 degrees here, if that low even.Comment
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Drain valves
I have drain valves on the motor--except the starboard drain due to the knock sensor. I also have vavles on the manifolds. I hooked up a drain system similar to Prat's for the heater. I put a ball valve on both heater lines--one from the T-stat and the other coming from a drain in the water pump. Each ball valve has a drain with exterior thread and cap. When I want to drain the heater, I'll open the drains and let as much water drain out as possible. Then I'll close the ball valves and blow with compressed air through the drains to force out the remaining water. The water pump has it's own drain so I believe I'm able to get all of the water from the block.
I also have a shower. For now I run the pump empty and then pull off the hot hose from the block drain to let the motor drain--per Skinautique's advice.Comment
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only problem is some times they get pluged up with sand particles and you have to clear them out with compressed air and a peice of wire.Comment
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