Floor replacement

[M3Fan]

Has anyone replaced the floor on their older nautique? I have a soft (actually it feels more "broken" than soft") spot near the observer seat between the stringer and side of the boat. I'd like to do this myself than trust it to some tech somewhere. How involved is this?

[Blue Ski]

I actually have a similar problem with my '95. The floor seems to give just a little and make a slight cracking noise. The floor seems sturdy enough. I do not have a solution for you, but am concerned this may be a problem that will worsen with time. Does anyone know if this is a consistent problem with Nautiques?

[M3Fan]

Yes, that sounds like the same problem. It's just cracked feeling, but not soft. It gives a little, almost like a section is on a hinge. The rest of the floor is hard as a rock, but is a little warped over the stringers.

[pmt2234]

I'm replacing stringers in my 84 2001 right now. My boat had wood under the fiberglass floor in the front seat areas, probably to give the mounting screws something to hold on to. Sadly the screws weren't installed with sealant, and all the wood was rotten.

If this is your problem, I'd recomend reading up on boat repair before you decide if you want to tackle it yourself. Fiberglass dust is pretty itchy, but anyone with a little determination could get it done themself.

[wakerwes]

same problem to with my 89 nautique, its feel soft at the observerseat and next to the engine.

do know good books for boot repair or some sites?

[pmt2234]

I couldn't find any sites about anyone doing it. I remember some articles in Waterski mag many years ago. I got 2 books from Amazon, "runabout restoration", and (I think) "Fiberglass boat repair". I don't remember the authors. I still refer to both of them for info as I go along.

[nch20skier]

I just had the same area along with jsut tothe rear of the stuffing box repaired on my '83. The work could be done by someone with the time and a well ventilated workshop. To pay someone to replace the stringers, flooring and carpet you are looking at about 2k. Remember when taking this on the value of your time and the time you will not be on the water!

[tryan]

you guys might inject some of the rot doctor stuff to get you through the summer. once you start digging it's going to be hard to stop. if the wood is rotten/soft , it will help. if your floor has busted/cracked the plywood, it won't and you'll have to cut out the bad section. make sure the gel is sound on the bottom of the hull. fiberglass hairs will wick up water and resin is porous. scratches down to the resin are BAD.

IMPORTANT: look at the cracks and see if the hull has widened. take corrective measures to bring the hull back to its proper shape. the floor on the torino has widened by 3/8ths on one side and 1/4 on the other from looking at the cracks in the gel where the floor meets the stringer. i will have to pull this in before i lay up the sole.


fiberglass is a killer. try not to make any dust and protect yourself. (cooler temps means less sweat. 8) ) long sleeve shirt, eye protection, a good mask, a dickey(psuedo turtle neck) to keep the stuff off your neck and gloves. drill a hole and check the depth. use a short jig saw blade and cut out the offending section in a single piece and use this as a pattern for your replacement. after you have cut out the wood, cut back the gel, resin and mat a few inches outside the perimeter of the hole. an angle grinder and a shop vac leaves a good texture for a solid repair. cut the gel coat back even wider.

educate yourself on the abilities of polyester vs epoxy resins and try to stay consistent with what brand you use. use precise measurements with either.

the odds are that the flotation is going to be saturated. if you know any electrictions with foam cutting tools, ask to borrow them on the weekend. get some of the west two part foam and leave the great stuff on the shelf at home depot.

cut a couple sections of wood, divincell or whatever you are going to use that will fit onto the hole and mount on the bottom side of the remaining sound flooring leaving a lip to support the replacement pannel. coat these in resin and screw them in from the top and allow to cure. you can remove the screws, better yet, remove, seal and replace them.

coat your replacement pannel on all sides and place it in hole. resin and screw it in. once the resin has cured remove the screw and seal the holes.

try to match the lay up of your original floor. the homy method would be to burn the section you cut out and determine what schedule of cloth or mat was used. start with a shape consistent with your pattern. the next layer should be cut 2" wider to where you feathered back the original floor. the next layer should lay over the existing resin.

seal the area with gel.

interlux and west systems both have good reading materials on their web sites.

[Air206]

Wow! - Doesn't that sound fun! ...... you will really get to know your boat (spending "quality time" together).

[tryan]

i think thats what killed elvis.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/