'Nother winterization Q

[TRBenj]

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It seems to me that sucking up the A/F and trying to catch it out of the exhaust and recycle it is more trouble than its worth- why is it so difficult to remove the upper RWP hose and pour it in per PCM's recommendation? To each their own, I guess.

You said you are draining the block first- thats a MUST, in my opinion. Make sure you drain everything- both block drains, the trans cooler, the fitting between the 'stat and circ pump, both exhaust manifolds, plus any accessories you have (shower, heater).

[tski97]

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Tim in past posts you have posted pictures showing exactly were you have done work. If you have a picture that you can show exactly were to diconect and fill I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

[M3Fan]

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Tim in past posts you have posted pictures showing exactly were you have done work. If you have a picture that you can show exactly were to diconect and fill I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

I removed the output hose from the RW pump and poured the AF right in that way last year. The engine takes it in, hot or cold, with the T-stat in or removed. It's not too picky. Some prefer to take the T-stat out and pour the AF right down the housing (I'm sure Tim will provide pics).

This year, I tried something different since pouring it in was slightly messy and involved. I drained the hot engine/manis/elbow/strainer after our last run, blew out the water in the heater core, hooked everything back up and took an extra length of 1" water hose from the trans cooler input right to a bucket filled with exactly 3 gals of enviro friendly AF. Started up the boat, it took in all 3 gallons, then shut her down. Exactly enough to fill the block and I didn't get a DROP out of the exhaust so I know 100% of it went in and there was no mess to speak of. Clean and easy.

[tski97]

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I did mine very similiar but had some issues. I have a perko flush kit and I could not get it to suck in once the block was drained. I had sealed the intake grate on the bottom of the boat and it would still not suck. I then took the perko off and it would not pull the water out of the bucket. The only thing i could get it to do was hook the perko up and run it again, thus filling up the block, and then addinng more antifreeze to the mixture, put the hose from the perko back in the bucket and started it up. It then sucked all the AF from the bucket. When the water came out green in the back i had a bucket underneath to catch some. I then shut the boat off and checked that AF it was rated to about 0 degrees Fer. That is most likely an ok temp since it in my gagage however it can get to minus 10 outsided and you never know what may happen. I was thinkig of doing it again the other way to insure the AF is at a lower temp.

[TRBenj]

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Tim in past posts you have posted pictures showing exactly were you have done work. If you have a picture that you can show exactly were to diconect and fill I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

I posted this on CCFan:

There are 2 drains on the 351w block. This is the port side. The starboard side has one in a similar place, closer to the front of the motor.



There is a drain at the back of each exhaust manifold.



Assuming this is a PCM, there is a drain at the U joint between the thermostat housing and circulation pump.



You should also drain the transmission cooler by pulling the lower hose.



Also drain your strainer if you have one.



The RWP always holds water, so its best to remove it and drain it by disassembling, at the very least. I store mine inside with the impeller removed for the winter. If you have a heater or a shower, those lines need to be drained as well.

When draining, I use a piece of step flashing to redirect the water into the bilge (and keep it off the carpet).

When it comes time to pour the ATF in, I already have the RWP and strainer removed. I raise the upper RWP hose above engine level, put a funnel in it and pour the A/F in. 3 gallons is about perfect.

[tski97]

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Thanks Tim. Are you able to circle exactly were you pour in the AF? I have always just drained the block and so finding all the drains was easy. I just am not sure were you are pouring the AF. IF you can not circle it I have an idea of what you are talking about but the picture would be great.

[TRBenj]

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Thanks Tim. Are you able to circle exactly were you pour in the AF? I have always just drained the block and so finding all the drains was easy. I just am not sure were you are pouring the AF. IF you can not circle it I have an idea of what you are talking about but the picture would be great.

[tski97]

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Thank again Tim. So you disconect the bottom part of the hose you outlined and pour it in from there?

[CHassmann]

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Discount Inboard Marine sells a drain kit for engines. This is one of the several kits available. Does anyone have this?
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000

[TRBenj]

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Discount Inboard Marine sells a drain kit for engines. This is one of the several kits available. Does anyone have this?
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000

I wouldnt recommend them. My guess is that they would trap sediment way too easy.

[CHassmann]

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Discount Inboard Marine sells a drain kit for engines. This is one of the several kits available. Does anyone have this?
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000

I wouldnt recommend them. My guess is that they would trap sediment way too easy.

If so, then wouldn't they fill up and you're in the same situation as having plugs in those locations. Any additional sediment would pass through the system.

[TRBenj]

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Discount Inboard Marine sells a drain kit for engines. This is one of the several kits available. Does anyone have this?
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000

I wouldnt recommend them. My guess is that they would trap sediment way too easy.

If so, then wouldn't they fill up and you're in the same situation as having plugs in those locations. Any additional sediment would pass through the system.

No. The outlet on the block valves are *close* to the same size as the drain plug, but the manifold valves are much smaller than the plugs they would be replacing. Thus, theyre much more likely to get plugged up- I always get a fair amount of sediment to come out of the cast iron manifolds. Either way, forget about sticking anything up the valves to probe for blockage. If left on for years, I dont imagine they would be easy to remove, either.

[chief351]

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TRBenj thanks for the photos, sometimes all I need is a good clear photo to show me what the heck I am supposed to be doing. Was at the boat last weekend and took the T-stat hose off and poured another 6 litres of green antifreeze down it. I stopped when I heard it drizzling past the exhaust manifolds. Hoping this is sufficient since it is already quite cold near Ottawa.

Thanks again
Chief

[fyrhog]

I like it,,,,works for me,,,Thanks.

[chief351]

OK dokie!!