'Nother winterization Q

[TRBenj]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

Sorry for the confusion. The question is if I warm the boat up, then drain the block, then put the hose from the perko flush kit to a bucket of anti-freeze and start the engine and run it until the engine is full, what is the down side to this?

That should fill the block just fine- especially if you drain everything (block, manifolds, cooler, elbow, etc). As long as you drain the water first, it really shouldnt matter if you fill it warm or cold.

Then again, is it much easier to draw in from a hose than to pour it in by hand? Its only 1 hose clamp, and I like the RWP to be removed anyways. I dont think its good to have antifreeze sitting in the strainer either (I remove that as well).

[tski97]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

How much antifreeze should it take to fill if you do it the pcm way? You are correct on just one clamp it may be just as easy. Doing it this way will it also fill the trans cooler and if not will it be ok as long as it is drained?

[M3Fan]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

Sorry for the confusion. The question is if I warm the boat up, then drain the block, then put the hose from the perko flush kit to a bucket of anti-freeze and start the engine and run it until the engine is full, what is the down side to this?

The only concern I'd even mildly have is cracking the block by flowing cool AF into a hot, empty engine but I've never heard of it actually happening.

[C-Money]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

What are you guys doing to get the green antifreeze out in the spring when it's time to ride again?

[Quinner]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

Right wrong or both this has worked for me, usually takes an hour or two not including cleaning/detailing boat for storage:

Add Stabil in fuel and fill tank.
Replace fuel filter.
Warm motor then change oil/filter and trans fluid.
Run again up to full temp.
Drain all water from block/manifolds/trans cooler/heater/shower then replace all plugs/hoses (on my Excal I do not mess with the knock sensor drain).
Run motor again this time with intake in bucket pulling pre-mixed antifreeze, usually takes 2-3 gallons of A/F = 4-6 gallons of pre mix, keep another bucket below exhaust, when it comes out green it should be good, test what came out if desired.
Remove each spark plug and spray each cylinder with stabil, when done rotate motor a few revolutions to ensure full coverage.
Drain clear plastic strainer or be sure it does not contain any anti-freeze.
Remove impeller.
Clean boat and install bounce sheets or equal to repel rodents.

I would also recommend blowing some air in the pitot tubes to be sure no water is there, on the newer boats it is a very good idea to remove the computer board/ecm or whatever it is called and store indoors, this is in the trunk of my 206 behind a plastic cover, the speedo lines go to it and are supposed to be self draining, at the least disconnect the water lines to ensure they are clear.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

I empty the strainer and leave it empty after this process.
As far as summerizing, I hook up a garden hose to the same spot and run a bucket under the exhaust until the water comes out clear.

[TRBenj]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

Sorry for the confusion. The question is if I warm the boat up, then drain the block, then put the hose from the perko flush kit to a bucket of anti-freeze and start the engine and run it until the engine is full, what is the down side to this?

The only concern I'd even mildly have is cracking the block by flowing cool AF into a hot, empty engine but I've never heard of it actually happening.

I dont see how that could happen. The water in the block should be at 160 before its drained- the block itself wont heat up any more once its off. Putting in cool A/F should be the same as drawing in cool lakewater, no?

If I remember correctly, I use 3 gallons of the RV/Marine A/F to fill the block. The green stuff is cheaper, but I cant just blow it out of the exhaust and into the driveway in the spring.

[M3Fan]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

Sorry for the confusion. The question is if I warm the boat up, then drain the block, then put the hose from the perko flush kit to a bucket of anti-freeze and start the engine and run it until the engine is full, what is the down side to this?

The only concern I'd even mildly have is cracking the block by flowing cool AF into a hot, empty engine but I've never heard of it actually happening.

I dont see how that could happen. The water in the block should be at 160 before its drained- the block itself wont heat up any more once its off. Putting in cool A/F should be the same as drawing in cool lakewater, no?

If I remember correctly, I use 3 gallons of the RV/Marine A/F to fill the block. The green stuff is cheaper, but I cant just blow it out of the exhaust and into the driveway in the spring.

I agree on cracking the block this way not being plausible- someone had a post a while back of this happening and it didn't make sense to me but I thought I'd mention it as a way-out scenario. Plus, when you're draining the water from the block you are removing heat- quite efficiently. Drawing in cool lakewater is always "mixing" it with existing water in the block which is probably different then pouring the room temp AF into the empty block but still, I agree that logically it shouldn't hurt anything.

I use Sierra antifreeze. http://www.sierraantifreeze.com/. It's a PG-based antifreeze that is designed for engines rather than RV water systems.

[chief351]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

SGY exactly why I am trying to sort this out while trying to avoid a 12 hr round trip when I don't really have the time.

Should have mentioned this above but the antifreeze that was coming out the exhaust and into the bucket was quite warm. It was not burning hot nor was it cool, rather more like a nice warm stream to wash your hands under if it was tap water. Hopefully that can assist you folks in helping me out.

Anyone know what temp the stock t-stat opens at?

[SGY]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

I wasn't trying to be flip. That's exactly my point. Tough spot to be in. I've been in the same situation with the nagging worry of "did I get all the water out of that block". Whether or not the thermostat opened is the key issue. Usually it takes my block longer than 5 minutes to get up to temp when just idling.

[Hollywood]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

The proper way to winterize according to the PCM manual is to remove the RWP and pour the antifreeze into the block. That way youre not forcing any out the exhaust before the block is completely filled.

Regarding the T-stat opening or not, if you drain the block and then merely pour antifreeze into the hose that feeds the T-stat housing from the RWP, it will fill the block regardless of the T-stat being open.

How much of the A/F you are pouring actually makes it through the bypass into the block instead of out the sides of the housing to the manifolds? I guess this depends on how much pressure is needed to overcome going up and through the exhaust risers. Sounds like PCM has done their homework regarding this issue if they are confident enough to publish this method in the manual. The by-pass hole on the t-stat housing is about 1/2" diameter. Do not assume everything you are pouring down the RWP hose is going into the engine, even if it was drained.

I remove the t-stat and pour from there.

[MNSuperAir]

Re: RE:

That includes block drains, elbow drain, manifold drains, RWP, tranny cooler, strainer bowl, and the heater and shower (pumps, lines, etc), if you have them.

What is the difference between the elbow and the trans cooler drains? I just did mine again and don't remember anything specifically on the trans?

[M3Fan]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE:

How much of the A/F you are pouring actually makes it through the bypass into the block instead of out the sides of the housing to the manifolds?

Not much makes it into the manifolds. When I drained this spring, I got a splash from each manifold and gallons out of the block.

[TRBenj]

Re: RE:

That includes block drains, elbow drain, manifold drains, RWP, tranny cooler, strainer bowl, and the heater and shower (pumps, lines, etc), if you have them.

What is the difference between the elbow and the trans cooler drains? I just did mine again and don't remember anything specifically on the trans?

On the 351w, there is a drain at the bottom of the elbow- which is between the 'stat housing and the circ pump. Ive seen tranny coolers with drain plugs on them- but I find it easier to simply remove the lower hose and let the water drain out. You dont water being left in the tranny cooler.

[chief351]

RE: Re: RE:

I am slowly narrowing this down with all of your help. The more I read from these posts the more I believe I got a complete flush. Another piece of info that may help you help me..... I put about 20 litres (approx 20 quarts I believe) of new prestone through and captured it in the bucket beneath the exhaust. I never got 20 litres back. It's hard to estimate but probably in the neighbourhood of 12-14 litres and it was defintiley diluted compared to the green stuff fresh out of the container. I ran this through the block a couple of more times, hence my estimation in an earlier post here that I put roughly 40 litres through the motor. In the end I only brought 10 litres (approximately) of diluted prestone home with me.

Based on this info is anyone "more" satisfied that I have safely/completely flushed my motor ???

As well, someone above mentioned the T-stat having a 1/2 pass through it. Is this large enough to allow an engine flush if the T-stat never actually opens?

Sorry for all the questions.

Chief

SGY - no worries, appreciate everyone's help... I am just the FNG !!