'Nother winterization Q

[Quinner]

Colorado,

I have tried and worn out many different fluid changing devices until this one, works for trans and crankcase oil, cost's a few buck's but I think in the long run cheaper cause it appears it will last a real long time, highly recommended.

Link: Suck Up Pump

[coloradonautique]

I wonder if my brake bleeder would work in the same manner (ofcourse using a new/clean tube so that I don't contaminate the tranny). The manual says there are 2 quarts of fluid in there which might have me pumping for a while. Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

[TRBenj]

Our old '91 did not have a drain plug but I have not looked on our current '01.

Yes it did- but it might as well not have had one. Mine is impossible to reach and frozen anyways, so I pump it out the dipstick. Your new boat will likely be the same.

Colorado,

I have tried and worn out many different fluid changing devices until this one, works for trans and crankcase oil, cost's a few buck's but I think in the long run cheaper cause it appears it will last a real long time, highly recommended.

Link: Suck Up Pump

Good call CQ- the Suck Up is great. Not cheap, but its worth the price. I bought my dad one last year with our 1.23's in mind and its come in handy several times on different projects. Highly recommended.

[Blue Ski]

Had a marine mechanic recommend adding an extra quart of tranny fluid for the winter to prevent condensation. Every fall I add a quart then in the spring change the fluid removing 3 and replacing 2. I use this one and it works great, just don't waste time clamping the hose. I just drop the tube in and start. http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...64&aID=24A

[mf01]

I got one of these http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...amp;hasJS=true to change the tranny fluid in my 1.23 PCM. It works great. You only have to pump it a few times and the vacuum pressure continues to pull the fluid out.

[chief351]

Green antifreeze test

My computer got zapped during a storm a few weeks ago...back online now with a new hardrive. Anway.....

Bought a prestone test kit the other day to test the antifreeze that I recovered when winterizing my boat last month. Tester says I am good to minus 50 celsius. I will see the boat in 4 weeks and at that time will see about removing the drain plugs. Is it hard to take the RWP out of the boat? I don't recall how it was secured to the boat. Do you guys recommend taking the bilge pump out too? Fortunately the nasty weather has not shown up yet and doesn't usually until January. Anyone still skiing in Ontario? or Canada for that matter?

Thanks in advance.
Chief

[TRBenj]

Re: Green antifreeze test

Is it hard to take the RWP out of the boat? I don't recall how it was secured to the boat. Do you guys recommend taking the bilge pump out too?

Piece of cake. The RWP is held on by two 9/16" bolts.

No need to pull the bilge pump.

[Need-a-nautique]

Impeller

I drained the water from the block, exhaust manifolds, transmission cooler and RWP. Then pulled 5 gal. of RV antifreeze through the RW intake before it began running out the exhaust (Took maybee 2 minutes max). Is this the point those of you that take your impeller out do it? Do you just collect the anitfreeze in a container until it stops comming out of the pump, and then pull the impeller? Thanks for everyones input, this is the first time winterizing, and I feel good about putting my sncb to bed for the winter because the advise on this forum.

[TRBenj]

Re: Impeller

Is this the point those of you that take your impeller out do it?

I cant speak for the rest, but I pour the ATF in. The answer is yes- now that the block is full, you can pull the pump. Not sure how much you ATF will drain when you pull it, but be prepared to make a mess. Once the pump is off, its just 3 bolts to remove the impeller.

[jmo]

RE: Re: Impeller

When you pull the RWP and take the impeller out, just put a milk jug with the top cut off or some other basin to dump the anti-freeze that's in the hoses - it's not that much (a quart maybe?, I can't remember exactly).

Also, before you pull the rwp, use a white grease pencil to mark which is the top/bottom, and how it aligns before you pull it all apart so in the Spring you will put it back correctly - it's easy to install it backwards if you don't mark it.

jmo

[mcbridek]

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Could someone explain in a little more detail the process where you use a "bucket underneat the tail pipe, put the fresh water intake hose into a bucket" Thanks

[jmo]

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Could someone explain in a little more detail the process where you use a "bucket underneat the tail pipe, put the fresh water intake hose into a bucket" Thanks

Sure, to start with the latter, what you do is disconnect the hose that goes from the bottom of the boat to the water strainer (disconnect it from the water strainer), then connect a 5-6 foot section of 1" tubing (check the diameter of your hose, but I think 1" is right, you can get it from home depot by the foot) to the strainer and put the other end into a large bucket which you can fill with antifreeze, then turn the boat on (just run at idle) and it will suck the anti freeze through the entire system, you will have to refill the bucket during this process, just make sure you have it all ready to go in the boat before you start, and once it's coming out the exhaust you know your done. Most people just hang a bucket off the exhaust lip to catch it coming out to avoid making a mess.

Just remember you don't want to run the boat out of the water without supplying the system with water - some people use the bucket trick ( with a running hose in it to keep with the demand of the water pump) so they can warm up the engine in the driveway before changing the oil.

I use 5 gallon paint buckets you can get at any hardware store for a few bucks...

HTH,

jmo

[MarkP]

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One thing I always do even though there brass is use ant seize on all the drain plugs! I also crank the jack stand up to empty the exhaust of raw water so I get a more accurate reading of what comes out the exhaust, I also use the above procedure.

[WylieNautique]

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After reading all this, here is my plan. What are your thoughts.

1. Open all block and manifold drains and hose to the raw water pump. After draining, reinstall same except for raw water hose.
2. Attach fitting to raw water pump hose after strainer and in front of trans oil cooler. Attach siphoning hose.
3. Place hose in 5 gallon bucket of anti freeze.
4. Place same bucket under exhaust to collect returned fluid.
5. Start engine to circulate anti freeze . Turn on heater and shower and place shower hose in bucket to capture returned anti freeze. Open shower temp. controls (hot and cold) to fill hoses.
6. Water coming out of exhaust is replenishing what is being drawn into the block, so run until engine reaches normal operating temperature this insures thermostat opening.
7. Shut down engine and remove raw water pump impeller (If desired)

This has fully circulated anti freeze through the system. Any reason to drain any hoses that do not drain on their own if removing the raw water pump impeller?

Any flaws with this plan?

[chief351]

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sounds good Wylie. This is how the previous owner of my boat winterized for 16/17 years. He never had any problems and the boat was stored in a vinyl garage which saw some very cold temperatures. It was in central Ontario, probably much colder temps than you see in Texas.