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Sorry this is long but Im going to throw out all I know...
Alright fellas, heres the situation. Couple weeks ago after a full day of riding, I shut the boat off at the dock and upon restart I had noticed my temp gauge was pegged at max past 240 degrees. I immediately shut it down and opened my engine cover to reveal a cool engine. Hands on risers, or intake manifold was not hot at all. I restarted the boat and gauge pegged out again. I proceeded to take it to the ramp when I found it was in slow (limp) mode. SO, I opened my engine hatch again, played the "jiggle all the wires i can touch" card and presto, gauge went down to 160 and boat operated fine. So, Im thinking it was a connection in my 10 pin connector that attached the motor to the boat. Yesterday was the next time I had had the boat out. Before heading out, I disconnected my 10 pin, cleaned it very well and re-connected it. Fired the boat on a hose and everything was fine. Went out all day, ran beautiful. Brought it home and while on the flush I noticed my temp gauge was pegged again. I took the rpm's up and once again, slow mode.
Now heres where it gets interesting.... After talking to a local mechanic, Dom Forte, Fortes Inboard Connection, 2 things can send it into slow or limp mode, Temp switch, not sender, as well as oil switch, again not sender. Now the brain teaser, my boat was worked on a couple years ago and the marina had my wiring all messed up. I took it back to them and when I got it back, everything seemed to work fine. What I am now finding is, according to Dom, I should have 2 wires at my sending unit, located on top of my intake manifold and one wire going to the switch at the top of the circulating pump. This is not the case. Both the tan and tan/blk strip is on the switch and a green on the sender up top. When hooked up the way Dom says, as well as a friends 99 ss, i get no temp reading. So hows it all hooked up and how was it working before???? Also, I believe, the temp switch, at the circ pump, should only read ground when temp is abv 200. If this is the case, my switch went bad. It reads ground all the time at the pole. I disconnected the wire and it is not a back feed problem. I also ruled out the possibility of the oil switch, it sits ground with engine off and loses ground while running. Besides, with both wires off the switch on the circulating pump, the boat operates normal. So hows anyone else out there with a 97ish wired. I did find a post after searching for over an hour about one who also had it wired the way mine seemes to be. Im so lost on this and the PCM training manual nor service manual is helping me at all.......
Any thoughts, answers or prayers are GREATLY appreciated. And I cannot wait til tomorrow when I can pick Vinces brain at skidim.
Thanks everyone...
Scott
Do you ever feel like you love your boat, but your boat hates you?????
Alright fellas, heres the situation. Couple weeks ago after a full day of riding, I shut the boat off at the dock and upon restart I had noticed my temp gauge was pegged at max past 240 degrees. I immediately shut it down and opened my engine cover to reveal a cool engine. Hands on risers, or intake manifold was not hot at all. I restarted the boat and gauge pegged out again. I proceeded to take it to the ramp when I found it was in slow (limp) mode. SO, I opened my engine hatch again, played the "jiggle all the wires i can touch" card and presto, gauge went down to 160 and boat operated fine. So, Im thinking it was a connection in my 10 pin connector that attached the motor to the boat. Yesterday was the next time I had had the boat out. Before heading out, I disconnected my 10 pin, cleaned it very well and re-connected it. Fired the boat on a hose and everything was fine. Went out all day, ran beautiful. Brought it home and while on the flush I noticed my temp gauge was pegged again. I took the rpm's up and once again, slow mode.
Now heres where it gets interesting.... After talking to a local mechanic, Dom Forte, Fortes Inboard Connection, 2 things can send it into slow or limp mode, Temp switch, not sender, as well as oil switch, again not sender. Now the brain teaser, my boat was worked on a couple years ago and the marina had my wiring all messed up. I took it back to them and when I got it back, everything seemed to work fine. What I am now finding is, according to Dom, I should have 2 wires at my sending unit, located on top of my intake manifold and one wire going to the switch at the top of the circulating pump. This is not the case. Both the tan and tan/blk strip is on the switch and a green on the sender up top. When hooked up the way Dom says, as well as a friends 99 ss, i get no temp reading. So hows it all hooked up and how was it working before???? Also, I believe, the temp switch, at the circ pump, should only read ground when temp is abv 200. If this is the case, my switch went bad. It reads ground all the time at the pole. I disconnected the wire and it is not a back feed problem. I also ruled out the possibility of the oil switch, it sits ground with engine off and loses ground while running. Besides, with both wires off the switch on the circulating pump, the boat operates normal. So hows anyone else out there with a 97ish wired. I did find a post after searching for over an hour about one who also had it wired the way mine seemes to be. Im so lost on this and the PCM training manual nor service manual is helping me at all.......
Any thoughts, answers or prayers are GREATLY appreciated. And I cannot wait til tomorrow when I can pick Vinces brain at skidim.
Thanks everyone...
Scott
Do you ever feel like you love your boat, but your boat hates you?????