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Anyone tried to change out a dinged rubber rub rail. Is it a pain to get a new one to look straight. I was thinking about changing it out but dont want to open a can of worms. Anyone any idea of the cost of a repacement
Thanks
Changed the rail on my 94 SNOB a few years ago - pulled the internal round rubber out and take out all the screws - used new stainless screws for new install - helps to do it on a hot day after leaving the rail in the sun to become more flexible - seems that it cost around $200-$250 for the new rail
It is an easy job from the technical point. Remove the cap or caps at the back of the boat, take out the center tube, remove all the screws. Hundreds of them.
Like it was said, it is easier when warm. I have heard of people putting a hair dryer into a hole in the box the rub rail to heat it up.
Here is a trick i used when I replaced mine. The holes started coming up a little more short as I went down the rub rail, so I put a clamp on the end of the rail that was still free, attached the clamp to a come-a-long, between the boat and a tree, and stretched the rail slightly as I worked down the length of the boat, to line up the holes. The pull will also keep the rail straighter. Do not put the screws in too far, that will make the rail wavy by each screw hole. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to get the rail really soft when you bend it around the bow.
I'm about to replace mine too, the lake is drying up and it's getting cooler outside. I have a 2002 SAN 210. Anyone know what model to order if I buy from rubrails.com? Or should I just buy from CC?
Before you replace the entire rubrail, try wet sanding it. Works wonders on some dings and nicks. Followup with some 303 and it'll be good as new. If its curvy, pry out the insert where the curves are and replace the bent screws.
Yeah, apparently the previous owner ran into a very sharp object right on the tip of the bow. It's sliced pretty deep and missing a big chunk of rubber. Anyone have those part numbers for rubrails.com?
Try to remove the white scuff marks with acetone.
I have also had some success by polishing the rub rail with the edge of a wool bonnet on a buffer, on a very low speed, and keeping it wet. Use the same compound you use on the gelcoat. You must not get the rub rail warm. That is why you use a very slow speed, and water.
I believe the rub rail is custom made by TACO for Correct Craft. If you end up replacing the rail, then I do not believe you can follow DanielC's method as the new rub rail will not have any screw holes. This also means it will be impractical to reuse the existing holes in the hull/deck. Consequently, make sure you seal all the existing screw holes and make new ones as you go.
I seem to recall reading in another post where someone marked the existing holes with a grease pen so that they could reuse them when they installed the new rubrail. Just a thought.
I replaced the rub rail on my boat, a 1997 Ski with a rub rail from a 2003 (classic) Super Air. By using the "stretching" method I described above, the holes did line up, except for a few in the very front, where they put extra screws in to hold the sharp curve at the nose of the bow.
The new rub rail that I put on the 2003 Super Air had the holes already drilled in it, same spacing as my old rub rail from my 1997 Ski.
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