starter problem 89 Sport

[kdiddy]

this weekend I started having a pretty random, strange problem trying to start my 89 Sport.

A few times when I'd turn the key to start the engine, nothing at all would happen. Engine didn't crank, nothing turned, no noises. Everything just sat still. This would go on for several minutes, and several tries; and suddenly the engine would crank and start right up.

The stereo was working, so I don't think it was the battery. I did turn the stereo off to prevent any unnecessary drain while starting, but it didn't make any difference. It just seems like there was no signal at all going to the engine that I was trying to start it.

Any ideas? At least it started, but if this is an idicator of future problems I'd like to fix it now rather than in the middle of the lake.

thanks

[Rick]

Check and or replace the starter sxolenoid.

[thevogt]

I second that. $8 at the parts store by me. Just did it last month.

Gary

[vortech347]

Definitely the starter solenoid. Had the same problem last year.

[kdiddy]

allright, sounds like you guys know what's wrong.

Now, if you could walk me through what is needed to replace the starter soleniod. Where can I get one? Auto parts store or marine specific?

I'm not reall good with engine stuff, but I can usually take one thing out and put an identical new part in its place.

thanks.

[thevogt]

I bought mine at Advance/Discount Auto Parts. It was the same as a '91 Explorer. The girl behind the counter recognized it as the same as her Explorer. Works like a champ. $8.03 in Tampa, Fl. I have the ProTec electronic ignition and had to take the coil packs off the mount on the back of the engine. The solenoid was hiding under there. Just look for a big blob of black silicone with some large red cables and some smaller ones feeding in to the silicone. Cut it away gently with a razor knife to get the silicone off. Mine was a 4 post style. Hope this helps.

Gary

[SANfan]

Be sure to disconnect the battery before you start, unless you need to do some welding on the engine..

[thevogt]

Good point SANfan. Actually, kdiddy, you may want to pull the battery completey and give it a good charge while you are working on it, just to be sure you've got full juice when you're done saving yourself all that $$$$$$$!

Gary

[Rick]

Please use a marine Solenoid. I know they look the same as an automotive and act the same there is one big difference. The Marine ones are guarenteed not to arc. If you run your blower religeously for 4 minutes or open the engine cover every time before you start it won't matter. However if your fuel line fails and your soleniod arcs. You'll look like a terrorist as you will go to allah no really knowing why your boat exploded

[thevogt]

Rick-
While I have no argument about the differences between a marine and automotive solenoid, doesn't the 2 pounds of black silicone that PCM put on my original solenoid provide the same protection? You couldn't see the posts on mine until I removed all the silicone. I am from the old school with the motor cover. I grew up in and behind old Chris Craft Sportsman Runabouts. We always lifted the cover before we cranked the engine. They say old habits die hard. I also leave my blower on, just in case. It doesn't draw that much current anyway.

Gary

[Rick]

The 4 parts I think should always be marine are Alternator Starter Solenoid and Carb. These are all made to reduce sparks and or keep gas out of the bilge. My first inboard was a 16' Hyatt homebuilt with a 464 Buick Wildcat Talk abouot fast. I'm with you I always open the hatch before starting. I learned that from a friends dad who used to build and race boats in the 50-60 using AVGAS. A quick sniff is all it takes and is worth the time

[ag4ever]

I would also say distributor if your boat is not electronic igintion using individual coils.

[kdiddy]

well my boat is about an hour away, so I won't be able to look at it until Saturday or Sunday. Are these solonoids specific to each type of engine or are they somewhat generic? Its a 89 Sport w/ PCm engine, if that helps.

I'd like to be able to purchase the replacement part this week and install it when I get to the lake, but I need to have the correct part.

Also could ya'll walk me through exactly what I'm looking for and what is needed to replace it? A big blob of black silicone does not sound like something I've seen, but I have'nt been looking for one either. Should I re-silicone the area after the new solonoid is in place?

[Rick]

Call discount inboard Marine 803 345-0996 They should be able to source the part and tell you how to test it. Its probably one of the spares you should carry anyway. The solenoid is the switch that applys power to the starter. As a result find the starter and follow the BIG red wire to the solenoid. The other Big red wire on the solenoid goes directly to thje battery. The switch works by putting the 2 big wires togeather inside to crank the starter. one of the small wires to the solenoid will be a ground the other will go to the ignition switch. when power is applied to that wire the solenoid should power the starter.

[nms1991]

you also may want to check your neutral start switch on the trans by wiggling the shifter back and forth like tring to shift into gear, it could be possibly shift cable not allowing the trans to be fully in neutral.